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Parts Wanted Key switch for 1000

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kshultz

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Sep 16, 2006
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Location
Indiana
displayname
Shultzie
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Looking for a good used ignition switch for this. When I bought it a few weeks ago it started right up with no issues. Now that it's home I can't get it to do anything. I've looked for a loose wire or detached wire and everything looks good. I called the guy that I bought it from and he said I may need to "giggle" the wires that go to the key switch. He said he had to do that when he first got it, but had no trouble since. I giggled the heck out of the wires and still nothing. Unless anyone has a better idea of what I should be looking at??? (I hate electrical:bash:)
Thanks.
 
See if the connector has melted on the ignition switch due to a bad connection. Check the PTO switch in a similar fashion. You can try wiggling the PTO switch if it won't crank.

New OEM ignition switches are still available (IH-61524-C3). For $35 I wouldn't bother with another 40+ year old used switch.
 
The brake pedal has to be engaged. The brake is off in the pic.
 
Make sure the PTO switch is in the off position. Also take the tunnel cover off and check to see if the clutch safety switch is being activated by the spring clip when the brake pedal is pushed down.
 
Well guys,that's why I have so many alligator clip jump wires.I personally find it easier to bypass something than spend hrs tracking a wire thru a 50 yr old harness or switch..If a bypass worked you've isolated the issue..And I HATE elec issues as well.I'm a self taught ***** but I get by.For instance I learned this week that Briggs ,around the time elec clutches were coming out had 3 sizes of magnets in flywheels depending on need for more output from stator. YEA REALLY!!! Never stop learning!!
 
I have always liked my stuff to work correctly if used or not. In my professional career I have been asked to troubleshoot a machine with issues, in the end only to find that multiple issues ganging up against me and leading me off track
One issue…resolve it before it becomes a big problem
Easiest way for me
 
OK, I spent a little time on it last night. (I mean very little time) LOL
I took the tunnel cover off and saw that the switch was already bypassed. The wires were spliced together. I also made sure the PTO switch was off. Still nothing happens. Wiggles some more wires and still nothing. :bash: I haven't given up yet. It will be on the back burner for a while. I think I'm going to get a new or used switch coming. At least that will rule that out. Any other suggestions? :scratchhead:
 
Make sure the connector on the back of the ignition switch isn't melted. A bad connection there will cause it to heat up and melt the plastic connector, and nothing will work right after that. I would also function check the PTO switch with a multimeter to make sure it is working as intended.

Same advice as before...new OEM ignition switch. Do not waste your time/$$$ with used switch.
 
Everett, you discovered what makes troubleshooting so difficult...you don't know what the last guy did!If he bypassed one switch because he had an issue what else?...So it's back to basics and that's why (for me) jumper wires work fairly well..
 
OK, I spent a little time on it last night. (I mean very little time) LOL
I took the tunnel cover off and saw that the switch was already bypassed. The wires were spliced together. I also made sure the PTO switch was off. Still nothing happens. Wiggles some more wires and still nothing. :bash: I haven't given up yet. It will be on the back burner for a while. I think I'm going to get a new or used switch coming. At least that will rule that out. Any other suggestions? :scratchhead:
Fuses?
 
Why not get a wiring diagram and a cheap continuity meter and diagnose the problem?
Parts stores love it when people start throwing parts at an unknown problem.
 

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