• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

K301 rebuild

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm having a problem with my Walbro carb! I've run it thru the ultrasonic cleaner a couple times and did blow it out after > Now I'm having gas leak into the breather when it sits ! Is there a rubber seat the needle closes against? TIA
There shouldn't be. The float needle seat is brass....no rubber on it. The inlet needle actuated by the float has a rubber (Viton?) tip on it that seals within the brass needle seat. Be sure the float level is set correctly with the air horn inverted, as a too high float level may not let the needle valve seat. Be sure the brass seat is screwed in tightly, and that the float pin is engaged on both sides with the float centered, held by the hairspring.
 
Walbro carburetors do not have a removable seat, the kit to rebuild it is 25 757 11-s or 25 757 08-s depending on the number on the carb body.
 
I'm having a problem with my Walbro carb! I've run it thru the ultrasonic cleaner a couple times and did blow it out after > Now I'm having gas leak into the breather when it sits ! Is there a rubber seat the needle closes against? TIA
I had a similar problem. Gas leaks can be the cause of a very exciting event. Get an American-made replacement, try IsaveTractors.
Cheers, Jack
 
Those carbs are made in jina, but I have heard good things about his products.
 
Those are also made in China but allegedly with better quality control. I have heardixed reviews.

Instead, get a used original Kohler carb and rebuild it.
 
I'm perturbed with my rebuild! Will crank and idle fine but when I go to throttle up it stumbles and backfires. Tried the original carb and a aftermarket carb. Would the governor be causing this?
 
IH had Kohler paint the engines Federal Yellow for Cub Cadets so they wouldn't have to mess with masking and painting in their factory. The Starter/Generators were installed and also painted yellow by Kohler (starter belts got overspray) until late in the 1x6/7 Series production or the beginning of 1X8/9 Series. IH realized that they could source the S/G's themselves cheaper, due to their buying power, and install them at the factory in Louisville and save money. Of course, Kohler had to adjust their price down since they no longer had to procure, paint or install. IH just used the black finish that Delco Remy applied in their factory.
 
IH had Kohler paint the engines Federal Yellow for Cub Cadets so they wouldn't have to mess with masking and painting in their factory. The Starter/Generators were installed and also painted yellow by Kohler (starter belts got overspray) until late in the 1x6/7 Series production or the beginning of 1X8/9 Series. IH realized that they could source the S/G's themselves cheaper, due to their buying power, and install them at the factory in Louisville and save money. Of course, Kohler had to adjust their price down since they no longer had to procure, paint or install. IH just used the black finish that Delco Remy applied in their factory.
Did you check the breaker plunger rod. If it is aluminum replace it.
 
I tried a new plug wire , didn't seem to help any? As far as the valves , everything miked within specs. There's a lot of black smoke when I.m playing with the carb and the richer I make the more I can feel gas blow out the carb!
 
I tried a new plug wire , didn't seem to help any? As far as the valves , everything miked within specs. There's a lot of black smoke when I.m playing with the carb and the richer I make the more I can feel gas blow out the carb!
float level set ok ? I had the screw that holds the points wire strip out and short against the cover also when rpms went up ?
 
Tim, follow Matt's instruction's if you haven't already. If it still does the same thing, try gapping to .018" instead of .020" See if that helps. Also, make sure the point contacts are clean use some electrical cleaner, but be careful with the cleaner as it will eat paint.
 
Did you check the breaker plunger rod. If it is aluminum replace it.
When I was reassembling I couldn't feel the movement in the plunger with my finger while rotating the assembly> Put the points in and could see the plunger working to break the point contacts, set them to factory spec. Think it still needs replaced.
 
When I was reassembling I couldn't feel the movement in the plunger with my finger while rotating the assembly> Put the points in and could see the plunger working to break the point contacts, set them to factory spec. Think it still needs replaced.
Where would I be able to find such an animal?
 
tim, you could leave the cover off points,fire it up and watch for regular pattern spark.If they are working correctly it will be obvious,might have to cover a little to get brightness.I would ask ,how can it blow out carb if valves are sealing correctly??
 
Back
Top