K241 carburetor

[kashaver]

The p.o. installed a later style carburetor on the engine. The choke lever on the carburetor is opposite the position needed to work with this older K241 engine. Its like those on a Quiet Line or a Magnum that pushes the lever up to close and I need it to pull down to work with my choke cable and brackets. (He left the cable dangling off to the side.) I am sure some of you guys dealt with this problem and how did you handle it? Thanks!

 

[mgonitzke]

Easiest thing to do would be to get the correct carb for your tractor.

 

[gchunnett]

Hello Kashaver,
I had a similar problem, removed the choke flap valve from shaft, (NB put a big sheet of cardboard on the ground and a large soft white cloth on it as the tiny screw(s) learn to fly) and remove the shaft out the side of the carb, wrap cloth on the shaft and clamp in vise on the solid part avoiding the flap attachment area. Take a phone pic to make a record of which way it WAS on, then with pliers or vise grip gently wiggle the cable attachment until you can prize it off the shaft. Flip it over so it's on the correct way (opposite to picture above) and gently force it back onto the shaft, and gently ping the shoulders over again to reaffix. First look carefully at the shaft so that the above is indeed a possibility.
Regards
Gordon from Cape Town South Africa,
Two 100's, one "Original" 10Hp, although I have a 12hp in the other.

 

[dschwandt]

Best to remove the carb from the tractor first.
Then do the mods (not for the faint of heart) on a clean table with a clean towel underneath, good lighting and correct tools.

There are 2 tiny spring loaded ball bearings, one on each side behind the shaft in the treaded holes that will/may fly out when pulling the shaft free of the passage way that retains it in the housing. Place a finger over each hole as you remove the shaft to avoid them from flying out, they are not very big and you do not want to loose them as they and the bearings are there to provide a little tension on the shaft and to locate it in the correct spot when open via a detent in the shaft. This keeps the chole open when the engine is running.

But first,
You will need to file off the back side of the two #4-40 screws that retain the choke plate to the shaft to remove them as they are staked on the back side.
If you do not, they will likely break upon trying to remove them and you will really be up the creek. They will need to be replaced with new ones and re-staked or have some thread locker applied to secure them from vibrating loose and wind up inside the engine.

Carb repair and mods done in the field usually do not yield good results in my experience.

I just completed this repair on a #30 carb I rebuilt. A PO had installed what appeared to be a china throttle shaft and choke shaft that was incorrect. I had to modify the throttle shaft as it would hit the back side of the air cleaner when installed. The choke shaft had to be replaced with an OEM shaft and plate to operate correctly.

Good luck!

 

[jnolen]

I just bolted a small piece of metal to the arm that the cable hooks to with a hole on the other side of the shaft as needed. Mine needed the hole for the cable on the engine side of the shaft but new carb had hole on the air cleaner side.

 

[kashaver]

I needed just the opposite.

What I ended up doing was take the carb. to work. (Small engine shop) On my lunch break, I found some throttle plate screws and selected one that was 4-40 thread and I actually had that small tap in one of my sets. I drilled into the end of the throttle shaft and tapped it 4-40. Then I filed off the swaged or bradded area that retained the lever to the shaft, pried it off and rotated it 180 degrees, so it was on the air cleaner side. Then clamped it on with the throttle plate screw and a dab of loctite. It looks like it will work, but I don't have the engine back together yet from the governor repair.

 

[dschwandt]

Way to go!!!
Outstanding!!