Where the clutch pedal goes through the frame, the item has a roll pin in it and it will not budge, pin came out and heat had no effect on it. This did not end well for me for me.
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Iowa 70
- Thread starter Brad McGowan
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Where the clutch pedal goes through the frame, the item has a roll pin in it and it will not budge, pin came out and heat had no effect on it. This did not end well for me for me.
mgwin
Well-known member
That's not good. Yes, cast iron don't like heat very well.
Since there is not much benefit in taking the clutch pedal assembly apart, I usually just sandblast it all still in the frame.
As for the "roll pin," this is usually a "coiled spirol pin" instead of a roll pin.
A good set of roll pin punches are worth their weight in gold! Don't ask me how I know that!
Since there is not much benefit in taking the clutch pedal assembly apart, I usually just sandblast it all still in the frame.
As for the "roll pin," this is usually a "coiled spirol pin" instead of a roll pin.
A good set of roll pin punches are worth their weight in gold! Don't ask me how I know that!
Live and learn, all the pins on this tractor have been roll pins. I have never dealt with the coiled spiral pins before, something new to me. I bought a good set of those punches awhile back. The next one I will do differently.
mgwin
Well-known member
If there are roll pins in the driveshaft, they will not last long.
Go up to the upper right corner of the page where it says "Search" and click on that. Then type in "spirol pin" and then press enter on your keypad. There is a lot of info on the spirol pin there.
Go up to the upper right corner of the page where it says "Search" and click on that. Then type in "spirol pin" and then press enter on your keypad. There is a lot of info on the spirol pin there.
These little tractors are amazing. DAD traded a '63 Original with the timed mower deck in spring of '65 for a brand new 70. It had a few parts replaced over the years, like the original K161 engine, it was rebuilt/ overhauled THREE times. Then a complete new K181 was dropped in, and wore out, I'm pretty sure that K181 was replaced, I have no idea what brand sheet metal was on the engine when I got it but a fresh overhaul was put on a Cub Cadet K241, 10 hp engine. The clutch needed some new parts, pressure spring, throw-out bearing, friction disk, everything in the transmission & rear-end survived my years of power shifts when I was about 12 to 14 years old. The slower 2nd gear was going to make it my primary mower but SON wanted it. And he got tired of cleaning the carb from the crop in his cheap gas so he bought a brand new Deere, and I gladly took the #70 back. We started a new set of fenders to match my #72, making a matching 38" mower to the one on my '72. I'm going to put Firestone tires on the back, just not sure of size. SON put a set of killer LED headlights on it. My 72 with the fast 2nd gear is better at some things, like aerating the yard or plowing, and the 70 has things it does better.
Who would have thought that 57 years ago when the dealer brought this tractor out and loaded up the '63 that this #70 would still be ready, willing, and able to do a good day's work?
Who would have thought that 57 years ago when the dealer brought this tractor out and loaded up the '63 that this #70 would still be ready, willing, and able to do a good day's work?
If there are roll pins in the driveshaft, they will not last long.
Go up to the upper right corner of the page where it says "Search" and click on that. Then type in "spirol pin" and then press enter on your keypad. There is a lot of info on the spirol pin there.
I will do that other than your comments I had never heard of that type of pin.
Probably more info than you want to know:
Thanks for that link. I went through a whole bunch of threads doing a search but have not been able to answer what advantage does the Spirol have over the other type. Is there a distinct advantage?
mgwin
Well-known member
Definitely, yes!
They are more durable, and fit tighter. The spirol will last waaaaay longer than a roll pin.
Take a piece of scrap metal and drill two holes in it. Then drive a roll pin in one hole, and a spirol pin in the other hole with about 3/4" sticking up. Take a hammer and hit them both at an angle, trying to break them off. See which one breaks the quickest.
They are more durable, and fit tighter. The spirol will last waaaaay longer than a roll pin.
Take a piece of scrap metal and drill two holes in it. Then drive a roll pin in one hole, and a spirol pin in the other hole with about 3/4" sticking up. Take a hammer and hit them both at an angle, trying to break them off. See which one breaks the quickest.
It has been 22 years since I last painted an antique tractor, I got a little sticker shock today when I picked up some paint. What is pictured cost me $202.00. I still have to get primer, I priced the primer I wished to use was a non sanding primer and it was $155.00 a gallon could not get it in qts. the catalyst was $50.00 per qt. and the ratio was 1 to 1. I cannot imagine it taking more than 1 gallon mixed to prime a 70. I knew paint was pricey but.................
mgwin
Well-known member
Shouldn't take but half of that to paint a cub.
And don't forget the hardener!
And don't forget the hardener!
I can appreciate that, I had inquired as to how much paint was needed and the answers were all over the place with some replies being 4 qts. of yellow. I am 40 miles from the source so I have "P" for plenty. Not too sure about using a hardener, I have concerns about the level of PPE needed to apply it. Thanks!Shouldn't take but half of that to paint a cub.
And don't forget the hardener!
mgwin
Well-known member
Just cover up good when painting (use PPE). Just posted about hardener under the thread "spray guns"
Too cold and wet to sandblast and paint so pulled the head and this is what I found. No big build up of carbon and the cylinder wall was not to badly scarred. For those of you that know a lot about engines what do you see here in the pic? The piston is a bit pitted.
By no means am I an expert, but by the looks of the head gasket, my first thought is either head bolts in this area worked loose or the head needs sanded flat.
mgwin
Well-known member
No expert either, but you might want to add exhaust valve not working correctly to the list also.
This is the kind if feedback I need as I am no engine man. My plan is to take the engine to a small engine shop and have them go through it. What is the best way to do this? Strip it down to the bare block and head and let the shop take it from there?
Brad, how far are you from Cedar Rapids?
If not too far, consider Sperry Engines for your machine work.
They have done all mine so far and are great to work with.
Drop me a line and I will fill you in on what I did with mine.
If you do call them, ask for Larry, he is the small engine guy,
319-390-8636
Dave
If not too far, consider Sperry Engines for your machine work.
They have done all mine so far and are great to work with.
Drop me a line and I will fill you in on what I did with mine.
If you do call them, ask for Larry, he is the small engine guy,
319-390-8636
Dave
mgwin
Well-known member
Finding a good small engine shop that won't charge an arm and a leg is like finding a good auto mechanic. No decent small engine shops around here that I know of.
The "electronic thermostat" went out on my car, so I called the dealership to see how much they would charge. They said around $500 bucks before taxes. Long story short, I bought a solid metal one for about $45 and fixed it one evening myself. Labor was free!
I am no mechanic, but for that kind of money, I'll give it a go!
Wish we could all live near Cedar Rapids.
The "electronic thermostat" went out on my car, so I called the dealership to see how much they would charge. They said around $500 bucks before taxes. Long story short, I bought a solid metal one for about $45 and fixed it one evening myself. Labor was free!
I am no mechanic, but for that kind of money, I'll give it a go!
Wish we could all live near Cedar Rapids.
