IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[cmccarty]

Help, advice is needed. I am thinking about changing the reduction gears in my 106 to speed it up, then adding a creeper gear so I'll have about the same low end speed, but a wider range of speeds including 1 or 2 faster ones. The tractor will be used for plowing and general fun. Is this possible and does it make any sense? What is the speed reduction of a creeper? And what sets of reduction gears are available?
Thanks for you opinions and help.

Charlie

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - The creeper has a 4:1 reduction, cuts speeds to 1/4 of the non-creeper speed. As for over-drive reduction gears Midwest Super Cub has quite a selection, up to about 30% over if I remember right. Anything over 23% requires grinding inside the cases for clearance.

 

[jwinter]

hello, i have a k-321 kohler with a solid state ignition. i have a bum coil,whats the best way to approach this problem. should i change to points and condenser or replace the coil?

 

[dvogt]

The solid state I'm familar with on Kohlers does not have points . Are you sure its solid state? if you have a typical coil with point ign. & if you have a ohm meter available disconect all wires at the coil and check for 5 ohms through the primary curcuit. if it has that replace the points & condenser. if it don't replace the coil. you could also check for power at the points with a test light. if you don't have access to a ohm meter or test light change the points & condenser , try it , if no spark replace the coil


gotta add this for Art . How bout them Vikings?

 

[jwinter]

Thanks don for the reply, Im sure that it is solid state,it has no points. We tested the primary and read 12,000 ohms. Kohler specs read that it should be 54,000. It seems the coil is bad. With your experiences do you think we should stay with the breakerless ignition or convert to points and condenser. I have no knowledge of how reliable the solid state is.Thanks

 

[dvogt]

You'll probably find out theres no holes in the block for points. the solid state is expensive. last I heard 5 years ago they were over $100

 

[kweaver]

<u>IF</u> the engine uses a flying magnet to trigger the module I have a home-made circuit that'll fire it.
It's ran a 650cc two cylinder honda. (beats paying the $225 Honda wanted)
Just gotta dig out the circuit ... got a track hoe ?

 

[jabram]

To anyone who is interested in a gearing spreadsheet, I have put it on my web page under the documents section. It is fun to go in and change the gears around and see what you wheel speed is.

Charles, I sent it to you in an email.

any questions, just email me.

Joe

 

[jabram]

Oh, I didn't make this, someone else did, I just can't remember who.

 

[wcompton]

Anyone ever degree out what the .020 points setting gives for timing? Is there any advantage to advancing a stock K341?

I was going to put new points in my 169 and was just toying with the idea of actually setting it with a degree wheel.

 

[fmorski]

John:

What you have is a short inside the coil. That is why the resistance is not as specified. The total length of the coil wire will yield the specified resistance but it it is shortened, i.e. short, the resistance will be less.


Kentucky Ken:

Does the inigition system fire with every revolution or does it cancel out every other pulse so it fires only on power stroke?

Did you ever get the brake pads to a point where you are making some?

 

[farmall gray]

Wyatt,
The flyheel has a mark to set them with a timing light. It is 20 deg BTDC. The point gap will vary
by how much the lobe on the cam and the push rod
are worn. I tried static timing my K301 to the mark and rechecked it with a timing light. It was off about 10 deg. Kohler recommends setting them with a timing light at about half throttle. On my
puller, I used a harmonic balancer degree tape on the flywheel becuase I ran it at about 28 degrees
BTDC. That allowed me to repeat the setting and play around with it.

 

[wcompton]

Todd-
My 169 has a replacement K341 that was meant for electric start . . . . so it has sheetmetal of the OEM engine that you looked through a hole on the bearing plate and the bearing plate of an engine where you looked through the blower cover. . . sux don't it? Also, looking at a couple other engines of mine I can vary where I look at the hole and can get about 5-7 degrees variation. I'd like to do it better AND do it for the max power.

So would 25 degrees be agressive, yet conservative enough to make it worthwhile on a stock engine?

 

[dvogt]

Wyatt , take the time to put a degree wheel on it to check if the mark is acurate on the flywheel. . then check the point gap to see if the cam lobe is worn. normally .001 in gap = about 1 degree if the lobe is good. I wpuld not go over 24 deg. for timing. we've run into detonation problems when getting over 25 deg. we set all of our pulling engines staticly

 

[jpiper]

Who makes and/or sells a proper Tachometer for a single cylinder Kohler?

 

[farmall gray]

Wyatt,
I'm used to working with the older engines with the hole in the blower housing. I paint the "S"
mark white then set the points so it is centered in the hole. If you are looking for max power,
You probably want to "tune by ear" or trial and error till it seems to have the most power. Then, you could mark the flywheel and make a pointer
for the mark. That way you could reset it back to the same point after replacing points etc. My puller seemed to work best when I played with the points at idle. I would set them till the engine sounded the smoothest. Then I checked it with a
timing light and made a note of where it was so I
could set it back if it changed. With a starter/generator you may also have starting problems if you go too far.

Don,
When I static timed my 123 engine I set it to the S mark. It would kick back when trying to start.
When I got it started, I checked it with a light
and it was about 1/2 the hole advanced from the S mark. So your 24 deg static timing is probably about the same as my 28 deg using a light.

 

[kweaver]

Frank -
I'm going to have to dig out the engine from it's hiding place in the garage to get the board from it. We've found some of the chicken scratch circuit drawings on paper but failed to find the completed diagram. (This was done pre-computer era)

I've racked my brain on circuits that I've seen , made , could find on the net and I finally figured something out last night when it HIT ME HEAD ON ...
You can not build a "hit one miss one" firing circuit since it would not have a mechanical connection to the cam (without a lot of work). The electronics would not know if it was firing on the exhaust stroke or the compression stroke. It'd just fire at each trigger pulse and a 50/50 chance it would be firing 180 degrees out of time if you tried to remove the "off cycle" firing.
Since it has a magnetic trigger a magnet could be ran from a timed belt drive @ 2:1 ratio or driven by the cam/point plunger.
With a hydro drive it could even be ran from the driveshaft @ 2:1 since it would turn with the crank... but with a clutched shaft that's out.
This circuit does what the Honda module did in '93 and they wanted $225 for a new one.
Old Harleys fire at every stroke and they run and run and run ...
Send me a NOS built engine and I'll experiment with the firing

 

[farmall gray]

Frank,
Could you put a trigger wheel on the cam shaft where the fuel pump eccentric is then put a sensor in the fuel pump hole? Just a thought.
It wouldn't work if you are using a big stroker crank though.

 

[fmorski]

Ken:

That is what I have thought all along. The spark needs a reference to No. 1 or power stroke in the case of a one cyl. I may just order a set of the gilmer belt pulleys that are 16 and 32 and build a drive for the crank trigger.

Don:
Correct me if I am wrong but I would think that the balancer needs to be as close to the bearing as possible. Then mount the drive pulley on the side opposite the block to drive it so the crank does not flex.


Todd:

The crank trigger wheel is usually rather large to allow better control of hte timing. Larger wheel equals smaller increments or degrees of movement when adjusting timing. If you are using a harmonic balancer it probably will get in the way.

 

[dvogt]

Frank every engine I've ever seen with one was usually close to the front as possible and accessories were on the outside.