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I have to take the motor
- Thread starter skreiner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Motor will just slide forward once the 4 bolts through the frame are removed.
The 3 pin driver will just disengage from the clutch disc.
You may have to remove the clutch throw out lever pin to raise the motor a bit to enable it to slide far enough forward to clear everything.
Disconnect the PTO linkage and remove the grill and hood ass'y as a unit for more room to work.
Raise the front axle off the ground to access the front two bolts directly above the axle on each side.
They are a PITA, you need to tip the axle down on each side to get a wrench on them.
Good luck!
The 3 pin driver will just disengage from the clutch disc.
You may have to remove the clutch throw out lever pin to raise the motor a bit to enable it to slide far enough forward to clear everything.
Disconnect the PTO linkage and remove the grill and hood ass'y as a unit for more room to work.
Raise the front axle off the ground to access the front two bolts directly above the axle on each side.
They are a PITA, you need to tip the axle down on each side to get a wrench on them.
Good luck!
and remove the PTO disengagement arm by pulling the 2 cotter pins, sliding out the one bushing it pivots on the frame and working arm to come out. have done it several times. the 2 mounting bolts above the axel are the worst.
Those 2 bolts are a pain. I’m getting ready to pull the engine in my 147 again. Fresh rebuild and crankshaft turned and trued but still has a knock that I don’t like. A neighbor with a 149 seems to have the same knock but I don’t like it.
Cam shimmed and crank shimmed within spec??
Not sure about the pto, what would it be. Was rebuilt and installed to. It is shimmed to with in spec’s. Im still going to pull it and recheck everything.
Ok I will try that thank you. Good info/thinking.
You make as many mistakes as I did when I rebuilt my14 horse...you get pretty quick at those 2 bolts as many times as I had to pull that motor!
I hear you on that Robert. This is the 3rd time I’ve pulled this engine. That’s like my 1450 I have split it 6-7 time’s and tore the pump apart 3 times and will do it again this week.
Yeah we get to be pros at taking them out!
Jake I rebuilt mine cause of the knock it had. Did you remove the balance weights?
I did take them out Robert. It had this knock before I rebuilt it to. One of my neighbors who has a 149 I think with the Danco loader ( which will be in my collection soon )has the same damned knock/ noise so I was thinking it was a 14 horse thing. I will pull it soon and recheck all of the tolerance’s.
I had read about the "kohler knock" and was sceptical about wether I would get rid of it,but fortunately it's gone after the rebuild.
My DanCo/149 combo was rebuilt as well.
No knock.
No knock.
Well hopefully everything is still in place and correct when I have a look maybe next week. I’m going to pull the pto first and try that first. Between the 1450 and 147 I don’t get much time to strip and work on my granddaughters 124.
W
When you get to that124you'll have 2 more cubs waiting in the wings!
1811Cub
Well-known member
None of my single cylinder or twin Magnums knock, clatter, or make any unusual noise. Wondering if the Kohler knock is piston slap or excessive rod clearance?
rfunk
Well-known member
Speaking of cam end play, the shims that were originally used for end play on the grenade gears . . . are also the right size for the camshaft . . . and crank end play is adjusted with stacking gaskets. Take the time to be picky on clearances. Two or three times together and apart, (to measure) does pay in the end. Just let Charlie know that you are ordering the balance gear shims FOR THE CAMSHAFT! He was so concerned about me ordering those, he actually CALLED me. Thanks again for the customer care!
