help a new guy out

[emmettking]

remember to always leave the front PTO clutch lever in the far forward position most of the time, only pulled back to start your beast, those wear buttons on the front of it wear out far too fast if you leave it in the disengaged position. I used to pop the belt off the mower and loop it , tied it up against the voltage regulator so it touched nothing leaving the mower attached (to my 100) while dong all those other chores you can how do while having Fun, towing a dog-box full of grandkids/garden junk..... etc

thats good to know. the 100 is definitely worn out because the lever pulls all the way back out of position before i feel any spring tension.

 

[emmettking]

Emmett, nice job getting the 123 up and running! In case you didn't know, that seat is a boat seat.

View attachment 139894

yeah i didnt add the seat, but itll stay for now until i do any sort of restoration to it!

 

[emmettking]

anyone know the oil type/capacity of these two machines and hydrolic fluid type/capacity of the 123?

best place to get cheap replacement tires for the 100? Looking to strictly plow with that one so they should be aggressive (i have chains too).

 

[hydroharry]

Emmett - hope you keep your tractors locked up. There are some mid-nite salvage artists out there. Maybe they cut your belt off

You could get the Optional Amp Gauge and Mounting Bracket from Charlie at CC Specialties. There're both inexpensive and you'll know next time if the S/G belt might be missing. It's also nice to know if your S/G is charging.

Here are pics from CC Specialties. Maybe Kraig has a pic of where the Optional mounting location is on the steel dash pedestal.

​

NEW Amp Meter Gauge Charge Indicator PN/ IH 360053 R91 replaces 725-3023 USE 925-3141 Replaces: 360053R91, 393334R91, 378424R91, 360053R92 Also includes the rubber dash gasket that OEM did not have. Size : 2" (52mm), Range 30-0-30 Chrome Bezel , Studs & Brackets, Glass Lens, along with 12V Bulb & Holder Fits most all Cub Cadets​

​	NOS OEM chrome Amp Gauge Charge Indicator mounting bracket PN/ IH 394584 R1 Fits most all Cub Cadets​

 

[emmettking]

Emmett - hope you keep your tractors locked up. There are some mid-nite salvage artists out there. Maybe they cut your belt off

You could get the Optional Amp Gauge and Mounting Bracket from Charlie at CC Specialties. There're both inexpensive and you'll know next time if the S/G belt might be missing. It's also nice to know if your S/G is charging.

Here are pics from CC Specialties. Maybe Kraig has a pic of where the Optional mounting location is on the steel dash pedestal.

​

NEW Amp Meter Gauge Charge Indicator PN/ IH 360053 R91 replaces 725-3023 USE 925-3141 Replaces: 360053R91, 393334R91, 378424R91, 360053R92 Also includes the rubber dash gasket that OEM did not have. Size : 2" (52mm), Range 30-0-30 Chrome Bezel , Studs & Brackets, Glass Lens, along with 12V Bulb & Holder Fits most all Cub Cadets​

​	NOS OEM chrome Amp Gauge Charge Indicator mounting bracket PN/ IH 394584 R1 Fits most all Cub Cadets​

oh cool ill look into those!

 

[hydroharry]

Emmett - I see you asked about fluid capacities and types. Apparently you don't have the Operator Manuals, and I'm gonna guess you don't have the Service Manuals either. You can find a link to Manuals on the Main Forum Page, that takes you to a page with a link to all the Manuals.
http://ccmanuals.info/manuals.html
But being the nice guy I am I'll provide you the links below (although I probably shouldn't) for the 100 Operator Manual and the 123 Operator Manual
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/70-100 Operator Manual.pdf
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x2-3 Operators Manual.pdf
And while I'm at it I guess I can give you the links to Service Manuals.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/70-100 Service Manual.pdf
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x2-3 Service Manual.pdf
As for types of crankcase oil well I'm not going to make any recommendations. I will say the weight should be straight SAE30 almost all year. The manual does state to use SAE 10 if below 32degrees to 0degrees F, and below 0 degrees F use SAE 5 or SAE 5W20. I really wouldn't do that myself. I tried 5W20 one winter and after the engine was warmed up the oil seemed about as thin as water. I actually went back to using straight SAE30 year round.

Now your rearend fluid is another story. For the 123 Hydrostatic I would recommend Case/IH HyTran Ultra. You need 7 quarts and it is a little on the expensive side but once you change it you should be good for several years. Several guys on here have talked about equivalent fluids and have used them. You can search for those discussions and decide yourself. What ever you decide I would highly recommend the label at least state it meet HyTran Specs or IH HyTran Spec B6. When I couldn't find the Case/IH HyTran locally I will say I did use NAPA Premium Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Fluid without a problem. Here's a old pic and you can see it says it meets HyTran.

Also, make sure you change the filter too and DEFINITELY use a Cub Cadet filter. (There are some cross over charts that show all types of comparable filters BUT most are just not correct. Use the Cub Cadet filter and you don't have to worry).

I would also recommend you use this in the rearend of your 100. The Manual says to use HyTran or SAE30. HyTran will absorb 50% of it's volume in moisture and 30 weight oil won't. I've drained several gear drive rearends and drained out a few quarts of water before the fluid started to come out. That water will freeze in the winter and you could loose the rearend or seals or other things - so go with the good stuff.

 

[tkhoffman]

Tractor Supply Inc. Has a hytran cross. I've used it for 7 years now in my 782. Tractor is not used hard but doesn't lot of below zero snowplowing

 

[spndncash]

Hey Im new to the forum and having trouble searching through it so i apologize if this is a repetitive thread. I have 2 cubs that i just got for free, and one (123) is in good shape, and the other (100) is in... less good shape. I got the 123 running but it was dumping fuel out of the carb so i ordered a carb kit. I was wondering what the best place for correct paint, and parts for these cubs are. And more importantly, what year are they?? Thanks!View attachment 139854View attachment 139857View attachment 139856

the cubs look good. I love the 70/100 and NF looks. On a side note, I think that is the first John Deere GX or GT I have seen that does not have the front smashed in or the hood broken! I think people use them as a battering ram!

 

[snicklas]

Also, make sure you change the filter too and DEFINITELY use a Cub Cadet filter. (There are some cross over charts that show all types of comparable filters BUT most are just not correct. Use the Cub Cadet filter and you don't have to worry).

I agree on the filters, use a good one... one from a sponsor like CC Specalties, or a local dealer is the best choice. I needed one "now" because of an unexpected change right after I picked a tractor up and it has the wrong fluid in it, it was so full of emulsified water it looked like coffee with creamer ,so I changed the fluid with a "Hy-Tran Equivelent" from a local farm store (think rooster on a barn) that actually is the correct color and smells like Hy-Tran (yes we all know that smell). I went to NAPA as you mentioned about the fluid. I picked up one of the FIL-1410 that is on "the list" in the FAQ's. IT has served me well, and one thing that made me a bit more comfortable is specifically says "Hydraulic Filter" on the packaging and filter... I went to see if I had kept the box, or at least the flap for reference (I didn't), but I did borrow a picture from NAPA....

I know that some of the ones that cross to the IH/CC number are actually automotive engine oil filters with the anti-drainback valve, which is not good..... Next change will be a planned one, and there will be an order headed to MN first..... I will continue to use the fluid from RK because, I need to order a couple "cork gaskets" and have the time before I shell out for real Hy-Tran..... mine sitting in the garage have pans under them so I can keep them from "marking their territory".......

 

[rkuik]

HF6096 is the Fleet Guard filter number for the old 395789R2 IH CC hydro filter. F/G made the OEM filter for IH and is the same filter from what i know. it is about $12 at a CIH dealer. 2nd, Hytran is the oil to use as HydroHarry stated. the formula will suspend water from condensation that gets in the rear end, to if i remember right, 1% by volume, which in the hydraulic oil world is top of the line. it also is a non zinc formula that will not eat up any bronze plates, bushings, etc.

 

[hydroharry]

Correction to the info in my post #26

I would also recommend you use this in the rearend of your 100. The Manual says to use HyTran or SAE30. HyTran will absorb 50% of it's volume in moisture and 30 weight oil won't. I've drained several gear drive rearends and drained out a few quarts of water before the fluid started to come out. That water will freeze in the winter and you could loose the rearend or seals or other things - so go with the good stuff.

I stated HyTran will absorb 50% of its volume. I meant to say 0.5% of it's volume. I believe 0.5% was the original IH Spec B-6 for the fluid provided by the IH owned Viscosity Oil Company, AND I also believe the specification was improved and updated with Case/IH HyTran Plus to 1% (which is what Randy noted).