Geared Trans, Clutching

[jack casey]

Jack,
How far are you from Dansville, NY? Killer deal on a 126 there! Then you could have two in the local shop, and the guys wouldn't have to argue about who'd get to work on them!

BTW, Alan's did say I could get my deposit back anytime, if I didn't want to wait. Carolina Carports did confirm my order was placed with them. Since my order was less than $5K, they are waiting for more orders in this area to justify the trip costs.

Marty, it's a haul, 300 miles. A few weeks ago I trailered mine 65 miles. That was enuf, thanks for thinking of me.
Jack

 

[jack casey]

Gee, lotsa responses, but, typically, I wasn't patient. Cub is now at my local shop....the boys were arguing about who'd get to work on it.
Cheers, Jack

For a Cub 102 need part number for the clutch disc. Left phone message for Charlie but no response after 2 days.

 

[dschwandt]

For a Cub 102 need part number for the clutch disc. Left phone message for Charlie but no response after 2 days.

You can easily find these numbers yourself here

https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/content-asset-page-includes/ari-partstream.html

 

[mfrade]

You can find your part(s) here = place the order on Charlies website and get quick delivery! CUB CADETs New Old Stock NOS IH-132310-C1 922-3001 722-3001 flex coupling hydro gear drive IH-148150 shaft Throw Out bearing Creeper Clutch Disc Spline Axle Hytran

 

[mfrade]

From the same page using the previous link. https://www.ccspecialties.org/pics/961-3002 clutch disc.jpg

 

[jack casey]

You can find your part(s) here = place the order on Charlies website and get quick delivery! CUB CADETs New Old Stock NOS IH-132310-C1 922-3001 722-3001 flex coupling hydro gear drive IH-148150 shaft Throw Out bearing Creeper Clutch Disc Spline Axle Hytran

Did not think of online ordering with CCS as was waiting to hear from Charlie about a kit for mower repair. Kit may not be available.

Went to visit my Cub 102 earlier today. Have it running w/o replacing the clutch disc saying that it could be expensive as they'd be removing everything from clutch back to the axle. WHAT! Said in an old machine something may break and I cud be looking at $1100 in parts replacement. Thanks to this forum, I suggested that the appropriate way to replace the disc is to remove motor mounts and move the motor forward. They will order disc part 961-3002 from their supplier, also gave Charlies info.

Cheers and thanks, Jack

 

[mfrade]

You can also use that same link to CCS website and lookup your mower parts -maybe see the kit you're looking for.. or not!

 

[jack casey]

http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_clutch.html

New to me Cub 102 with the all-gear trans. Looking at the Blue Ribbon Service manual GSS-1369, page 2-15....'Clutch and Brake pedal linkage adjustments.' Following the clutching zone engaged/disengaged instruction I cannot go from neutral to 1st or reverse without gear-crunching. When I bought the tractor the owner drove it around without issues. What the hay am I doing wrong?
Help please, Jack C

New to me Cub 102 with the all-gear trans. Looking at the Blue Ribbon Service manual GSS-1369, page 2-15....'Clutch and Brake pedal linkage adjustments.' Following the clutching zone engaged/disengaged instruction I cannot go from neutral to 1st or reverse without gear-crunching. When I bought the tractor the owner drove it around without issues. What the hay am I doing wrong?
Help please, Jack C

Paper thin clutch disc replaced, still experience gear crunching. In the left pix pedal is relaxed with a bit less than 1/4" clearance. In second pix I put easy pressure on the pedal for alot more clearance. The operators manual talks about free movement. What I have don't look right. As usual, HELP!
Cheers, Jack C

 

[jkoenig]

Jack, does it go into 2nd or 3rd smoothly? If you wait a long time with the pedal depressed, will it go into 1st or rev ok?

I can;t see how a P.O. could shift better than you with some secret knowledge of how to make it work smoothly.

Have you verified that the driveshaft does stop spinning? You are stopped with no tractor motion when trying to shift any gears, right?

 

[kharvey]

Did you put in a new teaser spring? Does the shaft bind in motor bushing?

 

[lpalma]

What other parts didja replace? yoke, clutch arm, shaft???? The pedal should be hitting the stop when the clutch is engaged.

Got any pictures?

 

[hydroharry]

I'm the wrong guy to ask about grinding gears, but I've found over time just about every gear drive unit I've had is a little different, some really touchy. You have to figure out how best to shift it so the gears don't grind. Some require a hard push/pull on the gear shift lever, some want an easy pull all the way to the gear you're selecting. No question tho the tractor has to be completely stopped to avoid even a little bit of crunching. So, overall it might just be you figuring out your specific tractor.

 

[jack casey]

Jack, does it go into 2nd or 3rd smoothly? If you wait a long time with the pedal depressed, will it go into 1st or rev ok?

I can;t see how a P.O. could shift better than you with some secret knowledge of how to make it work smoothly.

Have you verified that the driveshaft does stop spinning? You are stopped with no tractor motion when trying to shift any gears, right?

Jim, thanks for the help. Idled for a solid 10 minutes. Could not get the driveshaft to stop spinning, crunched into reverse to back out of the shed. Shift into 2nd perfectly and away I go, same for 3rd....all good but remember I could not see the driveshaft from my seat. Back to shed I shifted out of 3rd into 1st....perfect, and the same for reverse....perfect. Idled for a minute or so before entering shed and crunched into 1st gear. Interesting. When shifting gears I always stop. Standing alongside the running tractor and working the pedal cannot get the shaft to stop spinning. The Operators Manual talks about adjusting the clutch by turning adjusting nut "A" on the clutch release rod. Have not touched this, it is not tight and may be held there with a nylon lock nut. Source of the problem? Cheers, Jack

 

[jack casey]

What other parts didja replace? yoke, clutch arm, shaft???? The pedal should be hitting the stop when the clutch is engaged.

Got any pictures?

Lewis, just replaced clutch disc. Please see my response to Jim and the two 'stop' pix sent to Digger. I'll have to look for the pedal 'hitting the stop.'
Thank you, Jack

 

[mgwin]

Did you resurface the clutch plates? Parts #5 & #7 They could also be warped/bent causing it to not release.
And yes, the clutch release rod should be adjusted. Part #17 This may be your problem, if it has not been adjusted.

 

[jack casey]

Did you resurface the clutch plates? Parts #5 & #7 They could also be warped/bent causing it to not release.
And yes, the clutch release rod should be adjusted. Part #17 This may be your problem, if it has not been adjusted.

Marty, where do you get these part numbers #5, #7 and #17

 

[jack casey]

Did you put in a new teaser spring? Does the shaft bind in motor bushing?

Hi, did you see my reply to Jim Koenig. I worked it out so was able to drive in every gear without problem. What is a teaser spring?
Thanks, Jack C

 

[mgwin]

Part #4

 

[jack casey]

Did you resurface the clutch plates? Parts #5 & #7 They could also be warped/bent causing it to not release.
And yes, the clutch release rod should be adjusted. Part #17 This may be your problem, if it has not been adjusted.

Marty, I forgot your question about clutch plates #5 and #7. Clutch disc installed by pros, think they'd see some warping. Also, I see no evidence of warping when everything spins.
Cheers, Jack

 

[mgwin]

Have you adjusted the release rod yet?