Gear driven or Hydro Driven

[RAllison]

They were really easy to take out and clean

 

[bwstevens]

When you drive it they will come back up

 

[Stephen Wattley]

EDIT: Looks like you've identified the same things I mentioned here, and got it posted a couple minutes before me!

Stephen - I agree that the trunion slot and springs is the most likely culprit. But it also looks like the pivot points are loose/sloppy, which also adds to the herky jerky symptoms. The connection at the trunion shaft looks particularly sloppy, almost like there isn't even a clip holding it together. Forum member Matt Gonitzke did a tutorial a few years ago, recommending adding shims to snug up those pivot points. I've done it on three of mine and it makes a huge improvement. Here's the points I'm talking about:

View attachment 144043

It also looks like a previous owner hacked up that fender pan to gain access to the linkages and trunion. It makes it easier to see everything, but makes you wonder what other hacks were done? It's not that difficult to just remove the fender pan for full access, cleaning, etc. Here's the area that's been cut out:

View attachment 144045

Don't second guess your purchase - when you get these little things taken care of, you'll love it. Like the others said, just familiarize yourself with the parts lookup and service manual. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I've done these things, so it's not that bad. Good luck.

I just found a video of a 74 149 close up of linkage. I mine first has an E clip not a snap ring holding the sloted plate to the mount, then he has some beveled spring washer. No wonder so much slop. I think i see a flat on the tronion pin. And a slot forming in the back of rear spring. Next go to get parts here. I think trunion w new springs and the shim repair. How does the trunion plate come off hydro. ? Is it easy to get off.

 

[Stephen Wattley]

see the nice heavy washer and snap ring, this is a screen shot of a great video i found of a guy selling a restored 74 149

 

[glippert]

That big "washer" is part of that neutral centering plate. If I recall, it is on both sides of the plate. More like a pipe stub through the plate.

Below (ignore the painters tape), you can see that the trunion spring bracket is part of the shaft, so you'd have to open the unit and follow the service manual meticulously to drive the pins to remove it. But, you can repair that spring slot without removing it. Just put a wet rag over the shaft so the seal doesn't get damaged. But if the seal already leaks (like mine did), you have to remove this piece to access the seal.

 

[RAllison]

I spot welded mine using a wet rag to wrap below it and keep it cool... worked great!

 

[Stephen Wattley]

That big "washer" is part of that neutral centering plate. If I recall, it is on both sides of the plate. More like a pipe stub through the plate.

View attachment 144196
View attachment 144197

Below (ignore the painters tape), you can see that the trunion spring bracket is part of the shaft, so you'd have to open the unit and follow the service manual meticulously to drive the pins to remove it. But, you can repair that spring slot without removing it. Just put a wet rag over the shaft so the seal doesn't get damaged. But if the seal already leaks (like mine did), you have to remove this piece to access the seal.

View attachment 144198

wow great pictures could you take one of the trunion plate pin inside the slotted plate above, is there suposed to be a snap ring? that is the only clear view i dont have now

 

[Stephen Wattley]

That big "washer" is part of that neutral centering plate. If I recall, it is on both sides of the plate. More like a pipe stub through the plate.

View attachment 144196
View attachment 144197

Below (ignore the painters tape), you can see that the trunion spring bracket is part of the shaft, so you'd have to open the unit and follow the service manual meticulously to drive the pins to remove it. But, you can repair that spring slot without removing it. Just put a wet rag over the shaft so the seal doesn't get damaged. But if the seal already leaks (like mine did), you have to remove this piece to access the seal.

View attachment 144198

That is a snap ring on the outside pin, currect? That holds the plate with the square hole for the spring?

 

[glippert]

Yes, it's a snap ring. I don't have any of my tractors here right now, but I'll keep looking through my pics.

 

[bwstevens]

If you look at the slot in the plate in the picture . Where the flat side is the bottom of that slot should be perfectly straight.

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Tonight I started taking apart the fenders and linkage, still try to learn how the springs work. I understand the concept, but does the trunion arm have a little friction so after the small spring compress it then moves the arm / shaft going into the hydro unit? Fenders are going back to yellow before the go back on the tractor.

 

[glippert]

My understanding is, it will start moving the arm before the small spring compresses, but the larger spring dampens the movement to prevent a sudden jerk, so it "eases" into motion. The small spring provides additional "anti-jerk" protection when you slam the control lever too vigorously. The only friction would be where the shaft passes through the seal on each side.

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Does anyone know the o d of the shaft coming out the hydro? My slotted plate bearing hole is .630 thousand seems so loose

 

[Stephen Wattley]

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Next is this pin has a flat worn in it, but it almost looks like it was machine into the part on purpose.

 

[dschwandt]

5/8" on the shaft and that flat is not supposed to be like that either

 

[glippert]

I agree with David. Having said that, I have the same flat spot on all of mine, as well as the loose-fitting hole. But adding shims next to the snap ring will snug it up and greatly improve operations.

 

[Stephen Wattley]

I am ordering all three size shims. The bearing washer and snapring and the trunion springs like you guys suggest. Maybe i can save price of new sloted plate.

 

[1811Cub]

I just acquired a 1989 1050 with the 3 speed. I like it, but I still prefer the hydros for overall ease of drivability.

 

[Stephen Wattley]

I just acquired a 1989 1050 with the 3 speed. I like it, but I still prefer the hydros for overall ease of drivability.

Unless the first experience is with worn out plates and it takes off and suddenly jerks slower. Wow I thought I got F ed on this 169. But I rebuilding the linkage and hope for a huge change. But I did get use to how to feather the control and love the tractor even not fixed yet.