Gear driven or Hydro Driven

[glippert]

EDIT: Looks like you've identified the same things I mentioned here, and got it posted a couple minutes before me!

Stephen - I agree that the trunion slot and springs is the most likely culprit. But it also looks like the pivot points are loose/sloppy, which also adds to the herky jerky symptoms. The connection at the trunion shaft looks particularly sloppy, almost like there isn't even a clip holding it together. Forum member Matt Gonitzke did a tutorial a few years ago, recommending adding shims to snug up those pivot points. I've done it on three of mine and it makes a huge improvement. Here's the points I'm talking about:

It also looks like a previous owner hacked up that fender pan to gain access to the linkages and trunion. It makes it easier to see everything, but makes you wonder what other hacks were done? It's not that difficult to just remove the fender pan for full access, cleaning, etc. Here's the area that's been cut out:

Don't second guess your purchase - when you get these little things taken care of, you'll love it. Like the others said, just familiarize yourself with the parts lookup and service manual. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I've done these things, so it's not that bad. Good luck.

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Steve, you need to get comfy with the Cub cadet parts look up site and all the exploded drawings of the components of your Cub.

Lookup Parts Via Diagram | Cub Cadet US

i have them in the original book he supplied, i have 3 inch thick worth of papers in a binder on this 169 and the owners manual

 

[Stephen Wattley]

The connection at the trunion shaft looks particularly sloppy, almost like there isn't even a clip holding it together.

yes if you call the trunion the device with the springs, that pin is not held in the slot by anything? i was hope some picture of one in great shape and see what holds the pin in the diagram from cub show nothing.

 

[glippert]

I don't have a good pic of the linkage, but here's a shot from the back that shows how it should all be snug, parallel, and clipped together with a snap ring. This is my 782, but it's that same setup.

 

[bwstevens]

That pin is the neutral centering pin . The only thing that does is take the hydro lever back to neutral if you forget how to move the lever itself .

 

[glippert]

yes if you call the trunion the device with the springs, that pin is not held in the slot by anything? i was hope some picture of one in great shape and see what holds the pin in the diagram from cub show nothing.

Yes, the bent arm with springs is the trunion. Repairing that slot and replacing the springs, along with snugging up the linkages, will make it a new machine. Indeed, all of those pivot points should be snug and held together with snap rings.

 

[bwstevens]

The centering pin doesn't need a snapring once the other bushings are rebuilt. Also it is likely that the pin in the swash plate shaft is worn

 

[glippert]

The centering pin doesn't need a snapring once the other bushings are rebuilt. Also it is likely that the pin in the swash plate shaft is worn

Brian - I agree. I hadn't seen your post when I mentioned the snap rings. You're correct, once everything else is snugged up, that centering pin should stay put. And, I agree the swash plate shaft (I called it the trunion shaft) is likely pretty worn, but adding shims onto the shaft before the snap ring, should take up most of that slop.

 

[bwstevens]

Greg I have not had to rebuild that style linkage yet on a yellow tractor but I have a green one that is loose every where so it is like a video game to drive and will need attention where you have pointed out in the pictures.

 

[hydroharry]

Stephen - just saw you started this new thread for your 169. I just posted in your other thread a suggestion. Earlier you mentioned the engine rpm's are changing, which I assume is when you're driving the tractor. You need to address that first before you decide about doing something with the trunion. If the tractor is stationary then your engine rpm's should only change if you move the throttle.

 

[kphill]

I repaired the trunion on my 169 with just my mig welder without using the keyway method.. Just replace the worn areas with weld and grind and file the trunion slot until it is back to spec.. I used a vernier caliper to put it back into dimension.. The post above by Kraig gives you the correct dimensions...

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Yes, the bent arm with springs is the trunion. Repairing that slot and replacing the springs, along with snugging up the linkages, will make it a new machine. Indeed, all of those pivot points should be snug and held together with snap rings.

Is the slotted plate availability new? For just two plates it could all be new

 

[glippert]

Yes, all those parts are available. Just click on the CC Specialties sponsor box at the top of the page, and Digger will get you all set up. And, in case you haven't found the FAQs yet, here's a link. FAQ #14 will be of interest, and has a pretty good pic, too.

Cub Cadet FAQs

 

[dschwandt]

Looks like the manual relief valves need some att'n as well.
The one in the picture appears to be stuck down.

 

[gpapa]

Can both posts be put together? These threads have a lot of potential

 

[kmcconaughey]

MOD Note: The threads have been merged into this one.

 

[RAllison]

I welded and filed my trunion slot back into specs at home as well. If you decide to go that route,turn the welder down and go slow giving it time to cool. I got to hot and blew away a half inch of that outter leg...ugh!!!

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Stephen - just saw you started this new thread for your 169. I just posted in your other thread a suggestion. Earlier you mentioned the engine rpm's are changing, which I assume is when you're driving the tractor. You need to address that first before you decide about doing something with the trunion. If the tractor is stationary then your engine rpm's should only change if you move the throttle.

i did that before the post, adjust carb needle, throttle cable to go to idle, set idle screw. that stuff was all messed up. put 91 NON Etho fuel and she runs amazing and starts on 1/2 crank. took the cover plate off the hydro linkage and drove around hold plate steady. much better. i like to find the two plates in great condition, nice slot and i put new springs in. that my plan

 

[Stephen Wattley]

Looks like the manual relief valves need some att'n as well.
The one in the picture appears to be stuck down.

I pushed it down to try push the tractor. When do they come up . I assume with hydro pressure. They worked well

 

[RAllison]

Steve I took mine out and inspected them and oiled em up and they came back up a few seconds after I pushed them down, There was no pressure,engine was out as well as the tran oil