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Ford trucks anyone????
- Thread starter bnolte
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Earl, trust me one broken or missing bolt/stud will sound EXACTLY like a ticking lifter. If you have not already done so, before you allow anyone to take a wrench to it, LOOK. It only takes a few moments to look if any are missing. An exhaust leak farther down the line won't make the noise however a leak at the maniufold WILL. I had a 1991 Isuzu Rodeo with a Chevy V6 in it, one of the exhaust manifold studs broke off in the block, I would have put money on it that it had a noisy lifter but it was the broken stud.
Earl,
Take Kraig's advice but also LISTEN before you wrench it. Place solid dowel against the block or head near where you think the problem is and then place the other end against your ear (carefully). If it's a mechanical problem you should hear it better that way. Move it around and you can make a real good guess on what the problem is.
If it's an exhaust problem, you can pinpoint it by putting a small hose to your ear and scan around the noisy area with the other end. You should hear it when you find the leak.
Take Kraig's advice but also LISTEN before you wrench it. Place solid dowel against the block or head near where you think the problem is and then place the other end against your ear (carefully). If it's a mechanical problem you should hear it better that way. Move it around and you can make a real good guess on what the problem is.
If it's an exhaust problem, you can pinpoint it by putting a small hose to your ear and scan around the noisy area with the other end. You should hear it when you find the leak.
Good advice. I'll use the rod idea, but I also heard to use a tube, like a piece of conduit, to listen. I've used the solid rod before to pinpoint a dead cylinder and my friends, cousin's(half-brother's twin siter's aunt's, grandfathers', just kidding.) It worked well and he found a hole in the piston. I'll try it and see. Well, now that I think about it it does have a sort of hollow sound to it. Well i'll do the trick and hope for the least expensive one. Thanks and much appreciated, I still have a ways to go before I'm a 'mechanic'. Although my sister swears I'm one, "fix my power steering pump. My blower motor went out. My windshield's cracked..."
mfrade
Well-known member
I've had a couple injectors replaced as they would "click" at idle. Lifted off the wire at the injector and the noise cleared. Replaced the injector and no more noises.
I'll try that. Looked into the 'clunk' and I'm stumped. All is well in the land of secured brake parts and suspension. I want to keep but she just keeps asking for more money,lol. She's just like my Cases! This may be a good thing, I can drop a 302 or 351 in her and convert to 5-speed!!! I've missed stick since I got her. Of course this will be after I get a new-to-me heavierduty for trailering needs and most likely aquire a parts truck. I've thought this out such as dropping a 7.3 powerstroke diesel into a 70's Ford. That one I've planned and know what to do. The projects just keep fowing thru my mind!
UPDATE: The 302 is nearly ready to go into the truck. My question for anyone who knows their aftermarket carbuerators. Can I use my old I6 throttle cable on a new holley or edelbrock carb or do i need to go as far as too buy a new cable and run it. Let me know if you know Thanks
Matt
Matt
Well, it looks like its clutch time for my '94 F-150 4x4. Up until last Thursday, I didn't detect a hint of clutch trouble, but on that 6 degree morning, the clutch failed to release, and I could feel lots of slack in the pedal. After working it some and allowing things to warm up slightly, it returned to normal, but over the next several days its gotten worse. A check of the reservoir revealed a low fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, but no leakage either on the firewall or under the dash. Even after refilling the reservior, I still have trouble getting the clutch to release fully, I'm hoping I can nurse it along a little while by bleeding it and watching the fluiid level, but I'm pretty sure I got a leaking slave cylinder.
A check of the Ford service CD shows that I have a concentric type slave cylinder (inside the bell housing) so its all gotta come apart. With 192,000 miles on the original clutch, I might as well go the whole 9 yards and replace not only the slave cylinder, but also the clutch, rear main seal, and machine the flywheel. What am I up against? I've done clutches before in my Civic and my old '85 Datsun pickup, so I kind of know what to expect. I guess I'm a bit intimidated by the 4wd hardware, but I know once the transfer case is out, its pretty much like a 2 wheel drive clutch job. Are there any special tools, parts (other than the obvious) that I need to be aware of, and any aftermarket clutch brands I should either seek out or avoid? I got the service CD, but a a voice of experience would be helpful.
A check of the Ford service CD shows that I have a concentric type slave cylinder (inside the bell housing) so its all gotta come apart. With 192,000 miles on the original clutch, I might as well go the whole 9 yards and replace not only the slave cylinder, but also the clutch, rear main seal, and machine the flywheel. What am I up against? I've done clutches before in my Civic and my old '85 Datsun pickup, so I kind of know what to expect. I guess I'm a bit intimidated by the 4wd hardware, but I know once the transfer case is out, its pretty much like a 2 wheel drive clutch job. Are there any special tools, parts (other than the obvious) that I need to be aware of, and any aftermarket clutch brands I should either seek out or avoid? I got the service CD, but a a voice of experience would be helpful.
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- Brian Branstetter
Bruce,
Real sorry to hear about your truck. As far as the 4x4 system it really shouldnt be that big a deal. I pulled the tranny out of my 95 bow-tie and the biggest 'pita' was getting the dipstick seated after reinstalling the tranny. Ford at one time used Auburn gear transfer cases same as GM, which simply bolted to the back of the tranny with six or eight bolts. Pull the drive shafts and unbolt the transfer case and the reset is pretty much a normal tranny job. I'm not a Ford guy per say but the last one I was under didn't look like they would have been too bad. Any Ford guys to back that up? At any rate hope it all goes well.
Real sorry to hear about your truck. As far as the 4x4 system it really shouldnt be that big a deal. I pulled the tranny out of my 95 bow-tie and the biggest 'pita' was getting the dipstick seated after reinstalling the tranny. Ford at one time used Auburn gear transfer cases same as GM, which simply bolted to the back of the tranny with six or eight bolts. Pull the drive shafts and unbolt the transfer case and the reset is pretty much a normal tranny job. I'm not a Ford guy per say but the last one I was under didn't look like they would have been too bad. Any Ford guys to back that up? At any rate hope it all goes well.
This'll work for the "Beast"
Whats left anyway. She'll be reincarnated as a 79 F150/250/Camper special Frames going to my buddy for his pickup project. I'll find another but will never find another. Too many good memories.
Whats left anyway. She'll be reincarnated as a 79 F150/250/Camper special Frames going to my buddy for his pickup project. I'll find another but will never find another. Too many good memories.
BRUCE - Son & I replaced the clutch in My '96 PSD two years ago... Dreaded Dual Mass Flywheel! Get a transmission jack from a rental shop! And leave the transfer case bolted to the transmission. Your little 5-speed is the MAZDA transmission and only weighs about a third of what My ZF weighs so it should be easy to handle the assembly. The T-case is a Borg-Warner. Not sure what the F-150's got for sure, My '87 F-150 had a B-W 1345 but My PSD has a B-W 1356 and they look almost identicle. I've had the best luck with OEM FORD parts....Not sure I'd mess with the rear main seal unless You find it's leaking. The clutch kit could either be a LUK or VALEO, They're both OEM suppliers to FORD. The kit should have the pressure plate, clutch disc, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and the alighnment tool. You have to buy the slave & master cylinder separate. Have the flywheel resurfaced. You say You have the 300-6, I've had two, a '78 with 97,000 miles and an '87 with 120,000, both with New Process 435 4-speeds & part-time T-cases/manual hubs and neither engine leaked at the rear seal....they're a pretty tight engine.
Also to answer Your other question, 31-10.50 X 15's fit and look nice on F-150's, they were a factory option on Bronco's and some early F-150's. I had them on My '87 the last few years I owned it.
Also to answer Your other question, 31-10.50 X 15's fit and look nice on F-150's, they were a factory option on Bronco's and some early F-150's. I had them on My '87 the last few years I owned it.
Well, its pretty much official, I gotta do the clutch before I do any real driving, as it's still having release problems even after bleeding the system. Bubby my neighbor will try to get me in after he finishes a valve job on my neighbor's International 300, and he pulls the transmission out of a Blazer.
They are predicting a mix of sleet, snow, and freezing rain, then its supposed to warm up and we get another batch of something about the end of the week. I guess the Accord will have to get me through this one.
They are predicting a mix of sleet, snow, and freezing rain, then its supposed to warm up and we get another batch of something about the end of the week. I guess the Accord will have to get me through this one.
Dennis,
What exactly is the reason for the Dual Mass Flywheel? My SIL did a clutch on a non-powerstroke 7.3 Ford and I think he replaced the flywheel with a regular one from a kit. I don't know how it has worked out.
How is the snow on your side of town? It's hard to tell here because of the drifting. Time to get it off in case the rain gets here like they are predicting.
What exactly is the reason for the Dual Mass Flywheel? My SIL did a clutch on a non-powerstroke 7.3 Ford and I think he replaced the flywheel with a regular one from a kit. I don't know how it has worked out.
How is the snow on your side of town? It's hard to tell here because of the drifting. Time to get it off in case the rain gets here like they are predicting.
JIM - The factory DMFW was to soften the power impulses the rest of the drivetrain were exposed to. Why Ford didn't use the sprung hub style of clutch disc is a mystery to Me. I replaced the clutch in My PSD with a LUK replacement, solid cast iron flywheel (weighs something like 70+ pounds, 320 mm (12.6") dia clutch disc. The six compression springs in the secondary mass of the flywheel break and then they can fall out between the flywheel and the back of the engine. I've heard of people having spring fragments go thru the back of the oil pan and out thru the bottom of the pan....None of My springs were broken but I was WAY over the recommended amount of free play in the secondary mass which means My springs were about ready to break. The new pressure plate clamps better than the OEM one with about a third of the pedal effort. Well worth the $700 I paid for the clutch. I got a bit more transmission noise at idle and at low RPM's but I can live with it.
We got about 12-14 inches at home....and I'm hoping We don't get the rain this Thursday & Friday Charlie on Channel 15 is talking about.. I don't want the ice! At least most of this snow Saturday night was too heavy to drift!
We got about 12-14 inches at home....and I'm hoping We don't get the rain this Thursday & Friday Charlie on Channel 15 is talking about.. I don't want the ice! At least most of this snow Saturday night was too heavy to drift!
Dennis,
After your answer I decided to Google the term and was amazed to find how many vehicles have dual mass flywheels. Chevy and GMCs and some Porches also have had them. I didn't see any references past 1998 so I don't know if they have changed back to conventional flywheels in the newer vehicles.
I drove a Focus SVT last week (a real blast) and the search turned up an article on the Focus because it also has a dual mass flywheel. See http://www.myfordfocus.com/svt/ .
After your answer I decided to Google the term and was amazed to find how many vehicles have dual mass flywheels. Chevy and GMCs and some Porches also have had them. I didn't see any references past 1998 so I don't know if they have changed back to conventional flywheels in the newer vehicles.
I drove a Focus SVT last week (a real blast) and the search turned up an article on the Focus because it also has a dual mass flywheel. See http://www.myfordfocus.com/svt/ .
Ford went back to a "Normal" flywheel & clutch for a few years and now is using a DMFW again in the Super-Duty trucks. My S40 Volvo I found out has one too...
The Chevy & GMC DuraMax used to use the same manual trans as Ford and with the HP those things make I'm not surprised they need a DMFW to make the transmissions live. Another failure mode I've heard about is the pilot needle bearing between the two parts of the flywheel wears, then fails... I've heard of some people WELDING the tow parts together to get by for a while until they could replace the flywheel. Just the FW from the Ford Store is $1200 list... The LUK kit with the replacement master & slave cylinder I bought was $700 including shipping. It came in three boxes....two HEAVY and one light box.
The Chevy & GMC DuraMax used to use the same manual trans as Ford and with the HP those things make I'm not surprised they need a DMFW to make the transmissions live. Another failure mode I've heard about is the pilot needle bearing between the two parts of the flywheel wears, then fails... I've heard of some people WELDING the tow parts together to get by for a while until they could replace the flywheel. Just the FW from the Ford Store is $1200 list... The LUK kit with the replacement master & slave cylinder I bought was $700 including shipping. It came in three boxes....two HEAVY and one light box.
