Filter/fluid change

[user 19288]

Water/condensation contamination from sitting under a shed for 20 years was kind of unsettling to me. I pulled the rear cover and wasn’t quite prepared to see what ran out. I’ll attempt a video here. I raised the front, let it drain, wiped then rinsed it out before changing the filter and refilling it. There was no apparent rust/corrosion in the rear end. I had a 5 gallon bucket of JD HY-GARD so I used that considering I’ll do another fluid change. It apparently has never been changed before. The OEM filter has a number on it that I’ll assume to be a date of manufacture. Have you folks seen fluid contamination to this degree before?

 

[user 19288]

Suppose that’s January 1968?

 

[digger]

Water/condensation contamination from sitting under a shed for 20 years was kind of unsettling to me. I pulled the rear cover and wasn’t quite prepared to see what ran out. I’ll attempt a video here. I raised the front, let it drain, wiped then rinsed it out before changing the filter and refilling it. There was no apparent rust/corrosion in the rear end. I had a 5 gallon bucket of JD HY-GARD so I used that considering I’ll do another fluid change. It apparently has never been changed before. The OEM filter has a number on it that I’ll assume to be a date of manufacture. Have you folks seen fluid contamination to this degree before?

You can tell that's not Hy-Tran.
Oh I've seen a lot worse, LOL

 

[dsarow]

These pictures should convince ,that the correct lube has many advantages over some of the other lubes out there

 

[user 19288]

Pretty convincing. I figured since I’d be dumping what I was refilling with I may as well use the Hy-Gard. Hy-Tran will be going back into it.

 

[user 19288]

You can tell that's not Hy-Tran.
Oh I've seen a lot worse, LOL
View attachment 153651
View attachment 153652

Follow up question, I put Hy-Gard in since I had some and primarily as a flush, what’s the best way to get all of that out? Mainly asking about the Sunstrand unit. Will it drain? Should I turn it over by hand, pull the coil wire and crank it a few revolutions or ??? I plan on tilting the tractor both ways and allowing the axle housings to drain as I don’t really want to pull them off. The Hy-Gard went in dark red, now pink so that indicates water/moisture was still in there somewhere . Opinions requested. Thanks.

 

[digger]

Follow up question, I put Hy-Gard in since I had some and primarily as a flush, what’s the best way to get all of that out? Mainly asking about the Sunstrand unit. Will it drain? Should I turn it over by hand, pull the coil wire and crank it a few revolutions or ??? I plan on tilting the tractor both ways and allowing the axle housings to drain as I don’t really want to pull them off. The Hy-Gard went in dark red, now pink so that indicates water/moisture was still in there somewhere . Opinions requested. Thanks.

Hy-Gard will work, it just doesn't grab moisture like Hy-Tran does. If your parking it outside, moisture will always be an issue. no real need to tilt the machine. Drain it, clean it out with diesel fuel, wipe out as much as you can and refill.

 

[user 19288]

Hy-Gard will work, it just doesn't grab moisture like Hy-Tran does. If your parking it outside, moisture will always be an issue. no real need to tilt the machine. Drain it, clean it out with diesel fuel, wipe out as much as you can and refill.

I’ve ordered Hy-Tran so that’s what will go back in it. I wash it out with brake cleaner before and thought I had it cleaned well. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[digger]

I’ve ordered Hy-Tran so that’s what will go back in it. I wash it out with brake cleaner before and thought I had it cleaned well. Thanks for the quick response.

Brake cleaner cleans to good IMHO. Diesel/kerosene in a hudson type sprayer is the best way to go.

 

[user 19288]

Brake cleaner cleans to good IMHO. Diesel/kerosene in a hudson type sprayer is the best way to go.

I’ll try that while I’m waiting on my Hy-Tran.

 

[dfrisk]

The cast iron rearend housings were all painted via dipping with a really excellent casting sealer before they shipped from the foundry to the IH machine shop, That just about 100% guarantees no rust inside the rearends. The gears & shafts don't get painted, but IH Hy-Tran does absorb about 3% of it's volume of water which prevents water inside from rusting the internals of the rearends. How much rust you get in and on your Cub Cadets is pretty much dependant on how you store them. Store them outside uncovered not under any roof and they will rust up terrible in a year or two, store them under a good roof and they will never rust.
I've got 4 Cub Cadets, the #70 Dad traded a '63 Original for in 1965, the #72 I bought about 1980, a 982 I bought in 2000, and a Tank 54LZ zero turn I bought in 2014, none of them has even spent a night outside.

 

[1811Cub]

Pretty sure IH used Glyptal insulating paint on the cast iron diff housings. It seals the casting and prevents surface rust.

 

[user 19288]

From the mid-1980’s until my divorce in1991 it resided inside my shop. At my new house there wasn’t a garage so it sat out a year or so until my uncle and I built my current shop on some of his acreage. In 2004 I got my zero and it sat under a shed until recently. It’s reviving nicely.

At the risk of being a PITA on this subject, to anyone having used Hy-Gard is it red? This bucket was my uncles and it looks like new ATF/ATF with water contamination after draining it. If Hy-Gard isn’t red this stuff is going into the waste oil tank.

 

[-CӞ]

From the mid-1980’s until my divorce in1991 it resided inside my shop. At my new house there wasn’t a garage so it sat out a year or so until my uncle and I built my current shop on some of his acreage. In 2004 I got my zero and it sat under a shed until recently. It’s reviving nicely. View attachment 153841
At the risk of being a PITA on this subject, to anyone having used Hy-Gard is it red? This bucket was my uncles and it looks like new ATF/ATF with water contamination after draining it. If Hy-Gard isn’t red this stuff is going into the waste oil tank.
View attachment 153842

that leapin’ buck indicates it’s supposed to be green (priced like gold), ain’t it?

 

[user 19288]

that leapin’ buck indicates it’s supposed to be green (priced like gold), ain’t it?

And our Cub juice should be spelled HIGH-Tran! Local Cub dealer was $9 a quart.
Oh, and if anyone within driving distance of Charlotte wants a 2.5 gallon jug of HIGH-Tran for $67 (cost) give me a shout. My order is for two and I only need one.