Electrical Information Please Cub 76

[mmarion]

Hello
I have a 76 my brother-in-law gave me. He said it needed a mower belt. haha I finished installing the engine today after redoing the steering, wheel bearings, all belts, rebuilding the mower deck (the big hole in it scared me) new bushings in the idlers and replacing all the isolation mounts. The question I have now is, I have a wiring diagram but no wires. Someone cut the two wires coming out of the flywheel, one red, one black. I found what appears to be the modulaor bolted to the left side sheet metal under the battery, wires missing. Neutral switch missing wires. The wiring diagram indicates a voltage regulator, and alternator. Could someone tell me what the black and red wires are coming out of the flyweel area, where do they go, how to check output of alternator, and is there a kill wire going from the ignition to the throtle on the engine? Thanks

 

[mbounds]

Michael M:

1) Is your 76 A) Pull start only??; B) Pull start & Electric start??; C) Electric start only?? (the wiring diagrams are separate as well as different)

2) Isn't the two wires coming from the shroud actually a Red with white tracer and a White wire with black tracer??

3) The only "control module" involved is if you have one of the pull start versions.

4) It is necessary to grasp that the engine runs via the magneto but one with a battery/electric start also has an alternator to recharge the battery (those two wires!)

5) A few clarifying answers and we should get you going...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[mmarion]

It is a pull and electric start. The two wires under the shroud, one red, one black. I have the wiring daigram for the pull, electric start mower. I need info on how to check the output voltage. Could not get flywheel off, trying to perform checks with it installed. Wirig diagram also indicates a voltage regulator. Is it built into the alternator? thanks Myron

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: If those wire have been cut and that molded connector (with Diode which makes it DC) is missing,you desperately need to purchase the manual shown in the background to resolve the problems. IRRC, I bought mine at Books-a-Million or Barnes & Noble.

Myron B

My Model 76:

 

[mmarion]

Thanks Myron, I'll get it this week. More questions to follow later. haha

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: If your wiring diagram is showing a voltage regulator then you've got the wrong diagram. There is a control module which is related to the magneto ignition system but no "regulator" involved with the alternator/DC battery charging system. As stated in that extract from Chapter 7C of the manual, it's unregulated.

Myron B

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: If you print out that Hi-Res Cadet Model 76 wiring diagram I just emailed to you, then we can talk from the "same sheet of music".

Myron B

 

[mmarion]

Thanks Myron
Mine is the same except for the following:
Red w/white tracer to fuse and alternator is gone
Key switch wire white w/black tracer goes to engine kill lug on carberator linkage
Red wire to control module, control module, brown wires to neutral switch gone.

I checked again on the color of wires coming out of flywheel area, solid red, solid black. If I knew the identification of the two wires and be able to determine if the white w/black tracer is attached to correct location, I would be ok.
thanks

 

[lbuttke]

Myron.

Not to be a spoil sport but the manual you showed is not always helpfull.

My local cub cadet dealer borrowed his to me so I could figure out why my 383hydro was not getting any charge to the battery.
All the wire diagrams in the manual and none of them matched my 383hydro.
I have a 4 lug starter swithc and all the diagrams showed 3 lug starter switched.
Plus the wire harnes had 5 wires comming out of the back of the switch.

Now someone had wired a set of head lights into this 383 and followed one of the wire diagram close to what this 383 is wired.
The head lights worked as they where suppose to work, the faster the engine ran the brighter the lights where.
So I knew the alternator was putting out a charge, but it was not making it to the battery.

I had 14.6 volts at the splice but only 4volts at the lights.

When I removed the wire that was spliced into the factory wires ( the ones for the head lights) I now had 13.76 volts going into the battery at half throttle.

I used the serial number found on the back of the 383 hydro and neither of the online wire diagrams matched it either.

What I think I happen to have here is a cross breed cub. I belive it came out during the switch over from the 382 gear drive and the 382 hydro drive.

Again I aint trying to be a spoil sport but just thought I would say that sometimes even the manuals are of little help.

 

[mmarion]

To add a little more information. The key switch wiring is labeled S, B, M. S goes to solenoid, B goes to battery connection on solenoid. M goes to engine kill switch. On b&s site it indicates the red alternator wire is 3 amp dc voltage, and the blace alternator wire is 14 amp ac voltage for ligts only. If this is correct, and the M lug on key switch wires to engine kill, I will be ok. All I have to do is connect a diode to the 3 amp dc wire and hook to battery lug. Leave the black 14 amp ac wire disconnected. Please tell me this is correct. thanks

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: Yes, that is correct. The diagram I posted shows only the DC wire. Further on, in Figure 8, they show the Dual Circuit Alternator which indeed shows the same red DC wire with a Black AC wire specified for lights. As you said, cap off the black wire (the Model 76 does not have a lights option), install the correct diode and you should be in business...

By the way, something, I should have asked earlier,what model B&S does your 76 have. It's stamped on the shroud.

Myron B

 

[mmarion]

Went to the garage to check the engine, 8hp cast iron on shroud. Will check and post better discription tomorrow. Do you think a diode from radio shack will fit the need? Checked wire, nothing on it. Thanks for the help.

 

[mbounds]

Lonny B: Well, ya just gotta find a competent dealer and/or check the correct places...I kinda thought that you would have figured that out given what I have seen you post on your adventures with the 3000 Series. Great Tractor when the dealer gets it right....You mentioned borrowing a manual from the dealer but didn't say what manual..Do you remember what manual it was??

Also, I do not recall providing you with the correct wiring diagram for your 383H. Email me your serial number at [email protected] & I'll send you a printable Hi-Res version of the correct wiring diagram, if you are interested. Roland Bedell or Charlie could also have helped you get the correct wiring schematic.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: Radio Shack? I don't know about that. I'm not an electronics nerd.

However, the Model 76 parts listings in Section A of the TC-157 Parts Manual (you should have one) shows the diode to be a standard B&S part: BS-391507. It appears that you will also have to get a holder for the diode because I think the factory version is wired to the stator (under the flywheel). However a Small Engine parts supplier should be able to help you with either/both.

Myron B

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: I said the Model Number of the engine stamped into the shroud not that commercial they painted on there. It'll be something like 19707. Please look a little closer.

Myron B

 

[lbuttke]

Myron

I did ask Charlie for help on the wire diagram, and he sent me both wire diagram.
I was standing looking at the serial number when I was on the phone with Charlie.

My motor has an single orange wire comming from the alternator leading into the key switch.

And it did not match up to any wire diagram in the Briggs book or either wire diagram I recived from Charlie.

I was thankfull that Charlie took the time to try and help me out but at last the info I recived was of little help, no fault of his or mine, nor yours.

As far as a compantant dealer, I trust the mechanic that works at the dealer, its just he and I get tired of the run around we get at times from the parent company.
Any machanic no matter how good he is can not fix what is wrong if he dont have the parts or the correct instruction, or diagrams.

The manual my Cub cadet dealer lent me is the same one you posted a photo of below.
Briggs&Stratton
single cylinder L-Head repair manual.

Just to make sure, I am not angry with you for your last posting responce to me. Its just sometimes I take a long winded way of saying what I probly could said in a lot fewer words.

 

[mbounds]

Lonny B: I still need the engine horsepower and model number...what you told Charlie back when isn't doing me any good....The wiring diagram I'm looking at has just one (schematic says Yellow not orange)) wire from the engine (magneto) leading to the ignition switch as you describe and may not be the one Charlie sent you. This schematic shows a 5 pin ignition switch with 5 wires: Black,Yellow, Red, Orange & Green.

Note that all the IH listings only show the IH designed 382 wiring diagram. The CCC designed IH 382H/CCC 383 is <u>not</u> reflected/included in the IH 382 diagrams. I believe that is what is causing the confusion.

Just trying to help but need that engine hp & model number...

Myron B

 

[lbuttke]

Myron

I will get the engine numbers , however I do not know the horsepower of the motor as that information is missing from the engine shroud.

I will also get the wire colors leading into the switch, but I know for sure the wire comming from the magneto is oragne and one of the wires on the switch is white.

However it will not be until next week Wensday befor I will be back on the internet after tonight as I will be on vacation and only have access to the net here at work.

 

[mmarion]

Myron
I posted the engine info earlier, didn't show up. It's model # 192707, type 0025-01, sn: k-369007. I got a wiring harness for a b&s today. Install, put in fresh fuel and away I went. These things are just too fast in 3rd gear! 2nd is my kind of ride. haha How do you keep the hood closed? I will put the mowing deck on tomorrow and cut some grass. Thanks Myron, this is one of the best information sites I've been on. Good information, fast, and it's not like you are getting paid to do it. Thank you guys for maintaining this site. Where would I post questions about the 1200 I just bought? haha

 

[mmarion]

I know now why the earlier did not post. I clicked the wrong spot. Tried to do it again!
thanks