Driveshaft wont stop turning IH Cub Cadet 1200.

[LandHsales]

I just completely rebuilt my driveshaft pressure plate bearings. Is there a clutch brake for the transmission? When I depress the brake pedal the clutch releases from the plate and I can turn the driveshaft freely very easily. But when i start the tractor and depress pedal it stays turning. I mean i can stop it and hold it from turning but is there anything that stops the transmission from allowing the transmission from turning when depress the pedal. If i put it in gear and keep on the pedal it obviously doesn't turn. Please help with any suggestions.

 

[LandHsales]

The problem is I don't to ruin the transmission because with it still turning I try to put in gear and it will obliviously grind till it stops and then go in but why wont it just not turn when i step on the pedal and disengage the plates.?

 

[Kittermankadets85]

My guess is the adjustment on your pedal linkage needs tightened up to actually release the clutch. Should be a small rod with spring and 3/8 lock but tighten it up a little at a time until you get it to release when you install new parts sometimes the old setting are way off.

 

[kashaver]

I bet when you press the pedal the anti-rattle spring cocks the clutch disk to one side so it drags on the drive disks.

I solved that problem on a 100 by removing the anti-rattle spring. (Its probably a 'thou shalt not'thing, but I expect to be forgiven. And live with a little rattle.)

Another thing is to be certain the end of the shaft is well greased where it goes in the bushing at the engine flywheel adapter. I made my own shaft and it seemed to work better when it was .005 or .006 smaller diameter. where it went in the bushing for some reason.

 

[mgonitzke]

In addition to the above:

-I think there is supposed to be a 5/8" bearing ball in between the back end of the driveshaft and the input shaft on the transmission inside the flex coupling to take thrust loads on the driveshaft. Is that still there? If not, disengaging the clutch will move the driveshaft back a bit instead of fully disengaging the clutch.

-Is that an aftermarket friction disc? Looks thicker than OEM in the picture. That is also not helping.

 

[dschwandt]

Something looks really screwed up with that flex rag joint.

Also, you did not mention it, but are the ISO mounts in good shape and not mushy throwing the engine a bit out of alignment w/the driveshaft?

 

[PACub100]

Something looks really screwed up with that flex rag joint.

Also, you did not mention it, but are the ISO mounts in good shape and not mushy throwing the engine a bit out of alignment w/the driveshaft?

I was thinking the same thing about the flex joint. I have never taken one apart but that just doesn't look right to me...

 

[digger]

That's a Zach Kerber clutch setup, which most generally requires ALL his components to function correctly, Just sayin.

 

[gmartin]

Been thru several clutch rebuilds on my1000 over the years. Check our engine mounts carefully, they deteriorate soon an we expect. Next check the bearing at the clutch arm surrounding the driveshaft. Good luck

 

[joligschlaeger]

Engine off, clutch depressed and locked,...will the drive shaft rotate freely? Sometimes the plates/clutch disc gets moisture in it and sticks, tap disc to make sure it is loose