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Cub Cadet Loader/Backhoe model 7205

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Tom S

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2024
Messages
18
Location
CT
Hi all, I have a Cub 7205 tractor with loader and backhoe. It has been working great until today. It will not start, I suspect due to the colder weather here in New England. It cranks and puffs white smoke but will not fire off. I suspect the glow plugs. I changed the fuel filter also. I know diesels are hard to start in colder weather, it has been in the mid 30's as of late. The tractor has a Mitsubishi S3L engine in it. My question is, has anyone experienced this? I am planning on changing the glow plugs, does anyone have a suggestion for the type or part number to use? I want to use a name brand like NGK or Bosch and avoid the 'off brands' available from China on Amazon. Appreciate any other tips or suggestions. Thx, Tom
 
would a block heater help?
🚜💨💨💨
in a pinch during a cold snap, i’ve used a heat gun to warm the engine for several minutes and coax it to life (on my Cub’s Kohler and mower’s Briggs & Stratton). 🥶
mid-30°s isn’t t h a t cold but it is cold enough to have a chilly impact!
 
would a block heater help?
🚜💨💨💨
in a pinch during a cold snap, i’ve used a heat gun to warm the engine for several minutes and coax it to life (on my Cub’s Kohler and mower’s Briggs & Stratton). 🥶
mid-30°s isn’t t h a t cold but it is cold enough to have a chilly impact!
Appreciate the input...thank you! Sounds like a good idea.
 
Appreciate the input...thank you! Sounds like a good idea.
Is this your first year with this tractor, in the cold?
Heres my experience with old school diesels. Not the silly v8 diesels.
Easy to check the glowplugs before purchase. Look for the glow plugs, usually a single wire or Bussbar attaching all 3. Turn the key to the point that glowplugs are activated and check for 12V on that bussbar/wire. If you got 12V proceed to pulling the Plugs out and again 12V to top of plug and grount the body, you should see the tip turn cherry red. Don't add voltage for more that 10 seconds. You'll know after about 4 seconds if its working.

Yes! Block heaters are very very helpful in under 30 temps. Even with glowplugs, my tractor is sooooo much happier after installing a Block heater. Turn it on about 2 hours before using tractor and it'll start and sound happier.
Just some more comments....
That white smoke is a sign that its trying. You may have to crank a diesel for a long while, 12 second intervals to get the cylinders warm enough to ignite.
You can try a hair dryer in the air filter for a while, then crank it. Warm air, warm cylinders are you friend
 
Is this your first year with this tractor, in the cold?
Heres my experience with old school diesels. Not the silly v8 diesels.
Easy to check the glowplugs before purchase. Look for the glow plugs, usually a single wire or Bussbar attaching all 3. Turn the key to the point that glowplugs are activated and check for 12V on that bussbar/wire. If you got 12V proceed to pulling the Plugs out and again 12V to top of plug and grount the body, you should see the tip turn cherry red. Don't add voltage for more that 10 seconds. You'll know after about 4 seconds if its working.

Yes! Block heaters are very very helpful in under 30 temps. Even with glowplugs, my tractor is sooooo much happier after installing a Block heater. Turn it on about 2 hours before using tractor and it'll start and sound happier.
Just some more comments....
That white smoke is a sign that its trying. You may have to crank a diesel for a long while, 12 second intervals to get the cylinders warm enough to ignite.
You can try a hair dryer in the air filter for a while, then crank it. Warm air, warm cylinders are you friend
Thank you. I just did a resistance reading on my glow plugs. From what I've read the resistance should be about 1 ohm. I'm getting very high readings, 220 ohms, 120 ohms and 40 ohms on each of the three. I'm going to replace them. They are NGK in the machine with the part number on the body so I have a place to start as far as NGK part numbers go.
 
Thank you. I just did a resistance reading on my glow plugs. From what I've read the resistance should be about 1 ohm. I'm getting very high readings, 220 ohms, 120 ohms and 40 ohms on each of the three. I'm going to replace them. They are NGK in the machine with the part number on the body so I have a place to start as far as NGK part numbers go.
About 90 ohms difference average between each plug. For some dumb reason, they're not in series, are they? You did an ohms reading with the plugs out?
 
About 90 ohms difference average between each plug. For some dumb reason, they're not in series, are they? You did an ohms reading with the plugs out?
Yes, I did the ohm resistance reading with the plugs out of the engine block, held in my hand.
 
Yes, I did the ohm resistance reading with the plugs out of the engine block, held in my hand.
Also, oddly the machine had three different model # NGK plugs installed. I'm the 3rd owner of this 20+ year machine, so no idea if they may have been changed individually or not, you'd think they would be changed all 3 in one shot. Nonetheless, I have 3 NGK 6628 on order from my local NAPA shop. They were able to look up the proper glow plug for the Mitsubishi 3SL engine series.
 
Is this your first year with this tractor, in the cold?
Heres my experience with old school diesels. Not the silly v8 diesels.
Easy to check the glowplugs before purchase. Look for the glow plugs, usually a single wire or Bussbar attaching all 3. Turn the key to the point that glowplugs are activated and check for 12V on that bussbar/wire. If you got 12V proceed to pulling the Plugs out and again 12V to top of plug and grount the body, you should see the tip turn cherry red. Don't add voltage for more that 10 seconds. You'll know after about 4 seconds if its working.

Yes! Block heaters are very very helpful in under 30 temps. Even with glowplugs, my tractor is sooooo much happier after installing a Block heater. Turn it on about 2 hours before using tractor and it'll start and sound happier.
Just some more comments....
That white smoke is a sign that its trying. You may have to crank a diesel for a long while, 12 second intervals to get the cylinders warm enough to ignite.
You can try a hair dryer in the air filter for a while, then crank it. Warm air, warm cylinders are you friend
Appreciate the sound advice Tony
 
Appreciate the sound advice Tony
See how well the new glow plugs alone work for you. I live in an area where -15 F is not uncommon. The Block heater was a great help. It was scary to commit to popping out a Freeze-out Plug to install the Heater but worth it. Keep responding as you proceed. Im curious how you make out
 
Hi all, I have a Cub 7205 tractor with loader and backhoe. It has been working great until today. It will not start, I suspect due to the colder weather here in New England. It cranks and puffs white smoke but will not fire off. I suspect the glow plugs. I changed the fuel filter also. I know diesels are hard to start in colder weather, it has been in the mid 30's as of late. The tractor has a Mitsubishi S3L engine in it. My question is, has anyone experienced this? I am planning on changing the glow plugs, does anyone have a suggestion for the type or part number to use? I want to use a name brand like NGK or Bosch and avoid the 'off brands' available from China on Amazon. Appreciate any other tips or suggestions. Thx, Tom
Lots of good info on the glow plugs. On a little diesel like this, ether would be a risky effort. Too easy to overdo it. What some diesel folks do, is put a teaspoon of gasoline on a rag and put the rag in front of the air filter. That gives a more gentle boost than ether. Still, I'd be careful trying even that, on such a little engine. FIRST step is the glow plugs, then anything else, IF needed.
 
Thx for the input. Yes I've read about ether and the inherent dangers. I'll be putting in the new glow plugs this weekend. Fingers crossed.
 
Diesels definitely like the heat anyway you can provide it.My question for you is whats the viscosity of your oil.Thick oil will definitely slow the rotation
Good thought, I'll need to confirm but I think I used Rotella 15W-40 last time I changed it.
 
Good thought, I'll need to confirm but I think I used Rotella 15W-40 last time I changed it.
That is what i use exclusively in my larger diesel. Athough it is too thick for the temps i see. Especially if you have a weak battery. Diesels need to spin up nicely to start nicely.
In my case, Changing oil for winter seems a waste. 2.5gallons with only 50 hours on it.. i cant justify it. In the garage, block heater and long warm up time before reving it up works for me.
 
I would highly recommend the block heater. In the nineteen sixties and seventies we were in the trucking business and we put a block heater in that big old Cummins engine and on a new engine we got 750,000 miles before we had to replace the bearings and really never had another problem with it and I attribute a lot of that to plugging the blockade or in every night and no old starting and cranking without adequate lubrication. And a few of the side benefits were not only did it start immediately but it kept the radiator warm so the heater worked immediately and being a cab over in those days the Windows never frosted up. We also with different times had 2 Mercedes diesels and when we got them 1 of the 1st things I did was have a block heater put in each 1. Currently we are not in cold country and our IH 1650 is a Briggs & Stratton gas engine so we don't have a problem.
 
I would highly recommend the block heater. In the nineteen sixties and seventies we were in the trucking business and we put a block heater in that big old Cummins engine and on a new engine we got 750,000 miles before we had to replace the bearings and really never had another problem with it and I attribute a lot of that to plugging the blockade or in every night and no old starting and cranking without adequate lubrication. And a few of the side benefits were not only did it start immediately but it kept the radiator warm so the heater worked immediately and being a cab over in those days the Windows never frosted up. We also with different times had 2 Mercedes diesels and when we got them 1 of the 1st things I did was have a block heater put in each 1. Currently we are not in cold country and our IH 1650 is a Briggs & Stratton gas engine so we don't have a problem.
Thank you for your input Alan
 
Hi all, I have a Cub 7205 tractor with loader and backhoe. It has been working great until today. It will not start, I suspect due to the colder weather here in New England. It cranks and puffs white smoke but will not fire off. I suspect the glow plugs. I changed the fuel filter also. I know diesels are hard to start in colder weather, it has been in the mid 30's as of late. The tractor has a Mitsubishi S3L engine in it. My question is, has anyone experienced this? I am planning on changing the glow plugs, does anyone have a suggestion for the type or part number to use? I want to use a name brand like NGK or Bosch and avoid the 'off brands' available from China on Amazon. Appreciate any other tips or suggestions. Thx, Tom
Hi All, continuation of my troubles here. I picked up the new NGK-6628 glow plugs Saturday. Although the boxes were all identical, one of the glow plugs was different. This different one is the only one that fits due to the electrode diameter being 4mm. The others were 5mm in diameter and will not fit into the block. Glow plug electrode diameters are not specified in any literature or specifications. Anyone run into this? Where the electrode/tip diameter will not fit? Also seems that any NGK GPs with a 4mm diameter have been discontinued. If I do happen to find any, any risk in the input or output voltage not being as what is specified for my engine (Mitsubishi 3SL). Many questions here, appreciate any help. Tom
 
Hi All, continuation of my troubles here. I picked up the new NGK-6628 glow plugs Saturday. Although the boxes were all identical, one of the glow plugs was different. This different one is the only one that fits due to the electrode diameter being 4mm. The others were 5mm in diameter and will not fit into the block. Glow plug electrode diameters are not specified in any literature or specifications. Anyone run into this? Where the electrode/tip diameter will not fit? Also seems that any NGK GPs with a 4mm diameter have been discontinued. If I do happen to find any, any risk in the input or output voltage not being as what is specified for my engine (Mitsubishi 3SL). Many questions here, appreciate any help. Tom
Doing some surfing, it appears the Mitsu number is 32a66-03100. OR 32a66-03101 OR 32a66-03102. Is your NGK # a cross for these mitsu numbers? Heres the description that i got for the NGK 6628:
Attributes​
Brand: NGK
Contents: NGK metal Type Glow Plug w/Mounting Nut
Glow Plug Electrical Rating: 10.5 Volts
Glow Plug Hex Size: 12 mm
Glow Plug Thread Size: 10 mm
Glow Tube Length: 22 mm
Manufacturer: NGK Spark Plugs
Manufacturer Part Number: Y-107V
Overall Length: 84 mm
SDS Required: No
Terminal Type: Stud
UNSPSC: 26101724
VMRS Code: 033003004
Voltage: 10.5 V​
I think your auto store needs to try again.

https://www.mymromarts.com/glow-plu...sbVpCEM-0p2EBIYiQ2-pQzD9ZT0n3vJAaAldKEALw_wcB
 
Last edited:
Doing some surfing, it appears the Mitsu number is 32a66-03100. OR 32a66-03101 OR 32a66-03102. Is your NGK # a cross for these mitsu numbers? Heres the description that i got for the NGK 6628:
Attributes​
Brand: NGK
Contents: NGK metal Type Glow Plug w/Mounting Nut
Glow Plug Electrical Rating: 10.5 Volts
Glow Plug Hex Size: 12 mm
Glow Plug Thread Size: 10 mm
Glow Tube Length: 22 mm
Manufacturer: NGK Spark Plugs
Manufacturer Part Number: Y-107V
Overall Length: 84 mm
SDS Required: No
Terminal Type: Stud
UNSPSC: 26101724
VMRS Code: 033003004
Voltage: 10.5 V​
I think your auto store needs to try again.

https://www.mymromarts.com/glow-plu...sbVpCEM-0p2EBIYiQ2-pQzD9ZT0n3vJAaAldKEALw_wcB
Thank you! I also found some on p/n: 32A66-13200 which appears to be the Cub # for my glow plugs. I made a couple of purchases, fingers crossed the electrode diameter = 4mm. I also saw some other sources on JEGS and Messicks. I went with the Cub # assuming it is OEM. Not cheap but a critical part. Stay tuned, hopefully they arrive soon.
 
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