Cub Cadet 126 - electrical problems

[rcarmichael]

I'm having recurring problems with my starting/charging system. It looks like the battery is not being charged while the tractor is running and maybe even being drained of power while not running. I replaced the voltage regulator and had some work done locally and the amp gage appeared to show charging. I don't use the tractor that often and not very long when I do. It started fine maybe 6 - 8 times and then wouldn't even turn over. I pulled and tested the battery and found it to be completely gone. I bought a new battery and, when I tried to start it, all I got was a click. I'm not an electrical expert and don't really understand this system. I do have a wiring diagram and a voltmeter. I was wondering if anyone has ideas about volt/amp measurements I could do to try to isolate defective component(s)? Also, does anyone by chance know of an experienced Cub Cadet mechanic in the East Texas area (I'm in Tyler)? Thanks in advance for any responses.

 

[dschwandt]

Did you replace the VR with the correct one?
Where did you source this new VR?
Did you replace the wires on the correct terminals

IH-545130-R93
REGULATOR
This part replaces IH-545130-R92.

Also, all wire terminals and connections MUST be bright and tight.
I suggest you start there with a wire brush.
Sounds like dirty or loose connections at the solenoid.

 

[rcarmichael]

Did you replace the VR with the correct one?
Where did you source this new VR?
Did you replace the wires on the correct terminals

IH-545130-R93
REGULATOR
This part replaces IH-545130-R92.

Also, all wire terminals and connections MUST be bright and tight.
I suggest you start there with a wire brush.
Sounds like dirty or loose connections at the solenoid.

The voltage regulator you listed is the one I bought from Parts Tree. I will check all connections. Thanks!

 

[danderson]

Know that that series tractor had sub par wiring harnesses. Could be an issue.

 

[mfrade]

Know that that series tractor had sub par wiring harnesses. Could be an issue.

Sub Par? I don't believe IH intended these little tractors to still be working/running all these years later and the materials used in the years they were being built were probably believed to be more than suitable for the task. Of course looking back in time I guess it's easy to find fault when you see "newer" tractors in the same line that don't have the same problems.

 

[danderson]

I have seen numerous places discussions where the wiring on the 1x6 1x7 tractors had problems due to the fabric covered wire they used. The original harness on my 122 and 1250 are going strong with plastic covered wire. I rewired a friends 106 and 126 because the fabric wire turned to dust. My experience.

 

[mfrade]

You aren't wrong, But they used what they thought would work for some duration, not 40 or 50 years though! That's all I was saying.

 

[lpalma]

The early wide frames use the same type of wire also.

 

[Ken Black]

I have seen numerous places discussions where the wiring on the 1x6 1x7 tractors had problems due to the fabric covered wire they used. The original harness on my 122 and 1250 are going strong with plastic covered wire. I rewired a friends 106 and 126 because the fabric wire turned to dust. My experience.

fabric cover will do that. nothing out of norm...
i have 3 127s and 2 of them had fab cover one didnt.. i doubt it was replaced . so iam guessing there was a change over in the run ???

 

[danderson]

Lew mentioned that early wide frames had fab wire also. That would indicate no change during the 1X6 1X7 run. I’ve never seen one but Lew would know.

 

[lpalma]

I just picked up a 128, serial #411022 it has that wire in it, the ones under the dash are ok but where the battery is the regulator ones are fraying.

 

[rcarmichael]

When I try to start the motor, I get a loud click from the "switch assembly" (IH-1114532). I assume that is the starter solenoid. I replaced this part a couple of years ago. Per the wiring diagram, the solenoid is connected (one wire each) to the battery (+), amp gauge, neutral safety switch and generator. The battery is good and the neutral safety switch seems to be working because nothing happens without the clutch depressed. The amp meter needle moves when I try to start the motor. Are there specific connections on the generator for which I can use a voltmeter to determine if I'm getting the right electrical input to the generator? Thanks

 

[gary noblit]

Robert, simply bypass the the solenoid .It can be done by jumping the main posts.If the starter kicks you know it's the solenoid ..Just because it clicks is not a guarantee of good internal contact....they do wear out but so do s/g...You can also jump the s/g with 12v direct......the biggest issue I have found is solenoid not being grounded well or other connections also

 

[rcarmichael]

Thanks for the advice. Please forgive my ignorance, which is becoming obvious. Are you saying to run battery cables from either the tractor battery or a separate battery to the starter/generator (I assume with the ignition switch on and tractor battery connected)? If so, there are two connection posts on the s/g, one labeled "F" and the other "A." Which post do I connect to with the positive cable and which with the negative cable? Thanks again.

 

[gary noblit]

Robert...Never assume...I did not say both pos and neg to s/g....if you jump from machine battery no need to use ground (neg) cable ..simple pos to (A)...(F) is generator field to regulator.... A simple touch of post with cable should suffice to (A) to prove starter works.....If you were using an external batt you would need to connect neg to frame... I said nothing about the switch....We are trying to prove what components work by bypassing the wiring harness. Ignorance is the lack of knowledge,stupidity is not wanting to learn....

 

[rcarmichael]

I again appreciate your advice. I'm out of town until Wednesday but plan to do what you suggested next week. Thanks

 

[rcarmichael]

So - with the tractor battery fully connected and ignition off, I hooked up battery cables and touched the positive clamp to the A terminal on the s/g. Nothing happened. I tried again with a separate trolling motor battery and the s/g started. I went back to the tractor battery again and this time the s/g started. I then got on the tractor and turned the ignition switch and the engine started immediately! Also, the amp meter showed about 10 amps of charging. I don't know why but I am happy for the moment. Is it possible that the s/g belt was stuck or is too tight? Thank you!

 

[bwstevens]

Most likely the solenoid has a problem or the cables hooked to it are loose or corroded. You will find out as you go. It is a straight forward circuit. More than likely the studs are rusty.

 

[gary noblit]

Robert, Brian said it..you're probably dealing with bad connections also be sure the solenoid is grounded well...The solenoid is a magnetic switch.When you energize it (with key switch) a plunger jumps up to connect the input wire post to the output wire post.Everytime it connects a small spark occurs that eventually ruins the contact disc inside.They generally last for many years.....It is" possible" the brushes in the s/g are worn down enough they don't connect well.If it hasn't been serviced in yrs it should be.They are not cheap to replace....10 amps is a good sign tho

 

[rcarmichael]

I really appreciate the advice. The solenoid and voltage regulator have been replaced in the past two years and I doubt that the tractor has run more than a couple hours during that period. I've had two batteries wiped out in that same period. I also don't remember seeing any significant charging (like I just did) when running it. I'm going to check connections and wiring continuity. I suspect there is something not right with the s/g. I haven't serviced it and I doubt that it was before I bought the tractor from a "boneyard" in 2012. I'm going to try to find out if the s/g might have been running backwards and if that could have caused the batteries to be drained. Right now the belt rotates CCW looking from the front. I'm disconnecting the battery when the tractor is not in use, although I don't know if that is of any value. I have much to learn about the circuitry but your comments are helping a lot.