• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Cub cadet 105

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rhdee

New member
Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
3
displayname
Buddy Dee
Good morning all I have a 105 that I have had for 17 years with one engine rebuild about 7 years ago. I have a oil leak from the lower part of the engine,it is oil not trans fluid. The strange part is the dipstick still shows plenty of oil. I am only the second owner of this cubby and use it regularly for cutting,hauling and snow removal in the state of New Hampshire. Any ideas I know I will have to pull the motor but the dipstick thing is a head scatcher. Thanks Buddy
 
Those seals can be changed with the engine together...once you gain access to the front of the seal. There are seal pullers that can pull them out.
Or, if I recall correctly, there is enough depth in the seal bore for a second seal. You might try to push the leaker back, and install a new one right in front of it. Others with more experience please chime in on this. I don’t want to mislead anyone. I think it was brought up when rebuilders who wanted extra insurance against leakage would install two new seals there.
 
In the video shared recently on12th May, Matt (Diesel Creek) used a self tapping or wood screw into the old leaking seal rubber part and a slide hammer extractor device to pluck out the old seals.
Watch with interest (horror) esp. from about 17mins in and again esp at about the 33min mark

My suggestion would be to:
1) remove PTO for front seal and then with great care the front starter/generator pully, taking care not to damage (suggestions please)
2) for rear seal also remove all flywheel and drive shaft connectors to expose the seal area. ( watch video at ~17min mark)
3) CLEAN, CLEAN, and clean and make absolutely sure the area around the old seal is spotless. Seal numbers should then be legible on old seal, check that new one is exactly correct, dont remove old seal before new one is available/to hand
4) spot drill through the middle of the rubber old seal possibly in two places ~180 degrees apart.
5) insert self tapper or wood screw making sure not to allow threads to touch the seal inner running surface.

Attach slide hammer and yank out, clean, inspect and reinsert new seals.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top