Cub 1050-mid to late 80's model

[mgerecke]

Looking to buy this tractor for a friend of mine. It has broken the driveshaft clutch mechanism. Pretty much needs everything between the engine and the rear end. Is it hard to find all these parts? Or on another note, is it worth fixing? The magnum 10 engine runs great and the rest of the tractor is decent. I don't want to spend a lot to repair it since I am footing the whole bill- trying to help a friend down on his luck!! Thanks

 

[jchamberlin]

Mark: I don't know what they're asking for the tractor, but it is a bona-fide Garden Tractor from what appears to be the Cyclops era of CCC/MTD. From most reports I've heard, and the tractors I've seen, the Cyclops units didn't skimp on quality and added several refinements never offered by IH, including a diesel power plant (not applicable in your case) and the "Super Steer" front axle. Judging from what I'm finding on Parts Lookup, much of the Cyclops design appears to have remained true to the IH tradition. Judging from the Lookup's illustrations, you're looking at a tractor that resembles the IH/CCC 82 series tractors with a power plant I don't believe they ever offered, namely, the 10 HP Kohler motor. In other words, an updated version of a QL series Model 1000 sans isolators and with a magneto ignition system --what's not to like? I would be surprised if the drive train and clutch components differed very much from QL era Model 1000 or the 82 series gear drives (or the Wide Frame 108; heck, the narrow frame 106/104/102 and perhaps even the 100 all probably shared components, but I'm no authority on the topic). In short, in my OPINION, the tractor you're considering should be a solid value.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I agree with Jeremiah, definitely worth fixing.

 

[mgerecke]

Well in that case, does anyone have a good used setup to repair this? Usually I like the older stuff, but this one seems real nice. Looks to have not been stored outside at all with no rust. I would like to save this one from the scrap yard! He has had it advertised and no takers so far.

 

[mgerecke]

This can be bought for $200 as it sits, maybe a little less hopefully. And as Jeremiah said, maybe the clutch setup can be used from another model to get this going

 

[mgerecke]

I did a little research and the driveshaft/clutch setup is the same as an 1806 and 1050.

 

[toconnor]

Those were a low production tractor. I think that I have heard that they sometimes have a broken gear in the tranny. It is worth getting.

 

[vthomley]

Mark, I recently obtained an 1806 and I'm quite impressed with it !!! Although it lived a tough life prior to me owning it. So if this were available to me and I had the extra cash I'd be buying it!

FYI - I'm quite impressed with most Cub Cadets...

Also my lack of extra Cash is Art's fault, hmmm I might have to change my signature line.

 

[mgerecke]

I am purchasing the tractor! Sunday will be a good day. I have found a guy who will rebuild the parts that came off the tractor. He does pulling tractors and sees a lot of this stuff. Actually he thinks the rebuild will cost around $150-200 with all parts included! I picked this purchase instead of a Cub 109. This guy fabricates a lot of these parts like the driveshaft and can repair the clutch driver, turn down the pressure plate on a lathe and make a clutch. Hopefully it will go smooth. This is my first time dealing with a gear drive. I am a hydro guy

 

[sblunier]

I've run several, both 582's and 1050's...they are good machines, almost 100% IH 82 series with AL rear ends. Clutch is identical to the IH 582.

 

[nbextermueller]

I have a 1050. It's just a roller but will be my next puller chassis. It's near identical to my IH 782 except for the Alum rear end and single cylinder. (and of course the hydro g/d part)... It does have the better 30mm outer bearings and fine spline carrier and axles. I will be swapping the Alum case for an iron one and keeping swapping the carrier and axles over. (It takes a bit of machine work to get the 30mm bearings in the 1" iron axle tubes.

But all other 82 series parts are a swap. You could even drop in a mag 18 or 20 and have a killer G/D. It fits under the hood no problem...

 

[bseverns]

Nic, instead of machining the cast iron housings for the bearings, why not just machine the one aluminum housing to the thickness of the thinner cast iron one. I have two sets that have been done like this and they work great and save a little weight also.

 

[nbextermueller]

Do you use them in on a puller? I was a little worried about cracking the AL tubes. Keep in mind I'll be pulling a 3000lb sled with a 1000lb tractor pushing 35hp while balancing a wheelie on the rear tires and possibly bouncing off the wheelie bars also bolted to the axle tube bolts...

Seems like the irons are a bit more stout. Although, a lighter tractor is better, because then you can put weight where you want it.

 

[bseverns]

Yes Nic, I run them on a pro stock class tractor and a 30 ci puller, also on some stock class tractors as well. You can usually buy the wide sets cheaper than the others too.

 

[bseverns]

Though I don't have my wheelie bars mounted to the tubes.

 

[nbextermueller]

Well, sounds good then. I'll give it a shot. Maybe you could post some pictures of those pullers over in the pulling forum. I'd love to see them.

 

[bseverns]

nic, check my profile pic. will try to post some, I haven't tried it on here.