Cold Start

[-CӞ]

 

[Doug Rusk]

I have also been thinking that one of those jump packs could come handy lately.

 

[jdrong]

The question asked was about a 782, I related my experiences with my 149, that seems somewhat similar in frame and fenders. I don't know why a 1450 was brought up but I do believe it also is a gravity feed like my 149 so, a fuel pump would probably be no benefit for starting. I only meant to agree that an electric fuel pump on a 782 could be of some benefit especially for cold winter starting. I decided to look up 782 on tractordata.com, pictures seem to show the fuel filler through the hood so isn't the fuel tank above the engine also? That would make adding a fuel pump to that model pretty much useless for starting also.

 

[walls00000]

If your 1450 had a fuel pump, someone added it. The fuel tank is above the carb on those. None of the QL tractors I owned had a fuel pump. Nor do they need it.

An 82 series tractor with a K-series engine in it would need a fuel pump, as the bottom of the fuel tank is below the carb for that combination.

Pretty sure there is no fuel pump on my 781 kt17 s1. I replaced the fuel line recently and installed a fuel shut off valve recently.

 

[1811Cub]

Pretty sure there is no fuel pump on my 781 kt17 s1. I replaced the fuel line recently and installed a fuel shut off valve recently.

Originally it had a mechanical fuel pump. If you keep the tank above a 1/4 tank, and don't run it on inclines, the gravity action will suffice on that application. If it were mine, I'd at minimum eliminate the mechanical pump and install a low pressure electric pump to ensure optimum performance in all conditions.

 

[Curt Doles]

I'm a big fan of quality trickle chargers. I probably have 8 of the High quality battery tenders brands.
I have more than 8 batteries I want to keep topped of so I'll move them around. My abused compact tractors (diesel) spend the winter outside but the LED on the charger can be seen at night from 50 yards or so. I may have to try a magnetic. Another option is aiming a torpedo heater at a tractor you want to start and give it 15 minutes but be careful with that mode...

 

[walls00000]

Thanks for the info @Curt Doles I have a trickle charger and I use it frequently. I'm curious about what you consider a high quality trickle charger. Perhaps my harbor freight job isn't cutting it? It does make a difference and that is why I keep using it. It has rescued my not so good batteries many a time. It's just that when the cold sets in, its not enough. I'm still thinking that I just have bad luck with tractor batteries. For now, the jump pack I just got is working out good.

 

[Ken farmer52]

I did away with my HF chargers a long time ago. I currently use Schumacher brand and happy with them.

 

[rjruchti]

I have not seen where the difference is other than a name. I have used 2 of the HF battery maintainers, on on a camper and another on a tractor and have had good luck with both. So what makes the big name brands better than HF?

 

[dfrisk]

I've got 3 Schumacher #SC 1305 battery chargers, one for each placed I store power equipment. First start of my zero turn in the spring is tough, seems all the gas evaporates out of the carb, takes a while to refill the carb float bowl.
My first torpedo heater was a Knipco F98, 90,000 btu I think, then I upgraded to a 110,000 btu READI-Heater and 2 years ago I bought a 135,000 btu Dewalt heater. I saved the Readi-Heater in case SON wanted it, guess he hasn't got cold yet.
2 weeks ago I had to clean the driveway, Darned block heater on Super H wouldn't heat up, thankfully it starts good. New heater for it is 1500 watt. Old one is 750 or 850. Only takes 5-10 minutes of heat and tractor starts.
Most of the Cubbies with batteries under the hood you can use full size car batteries in, newer tractors with batteries under the seat you can't. I've got two Diehard Gold Group 26RG 650 CCA to go in my 70 & 72. The 982 can sit. I don't have chains for the 982 anyhow.

 

[jack casey]

I'm a big fan of quality trickle chargers. I probably have 8 of the High quality battery tenders brands.
I have more than 8 batteries I want to keep topped of so I'll move them around. My abused compact tractors (diesel) spend the winter outside but the LED on the charger can be seen at night from 50 yards or so. I may have to try a magnetic. Another option is aiming a torpedo heater at a tractor you want to start and give it 15 minutes but be careful with that mode...

For my CC102 over winter I use a Diehard 2A trickle charger. Stopped leaving it on 24 hrs. Now connected to a simple grounded timer it turns on for 30 mins each day and keeps battery well over 12v. Kinda what we did with Elec-Traks; when pack voltage fell to 38v a smartcharger took voltage back to a pre-selected 44.5v and turned off. (A 36v pack would be fully charged at near 45v)
Jack

 

[Greg Riutzel]

I go to a local automotive electric shop for batteries. The owner turned me on to battery maintainers. He said trickle chargers never shut off, and if you forget them they can overcharge a battery. That's probably why my 6 volt tractor battery only lasted 1 1/2 years. A maintainer will turn off at full voltage He sold me a Black & Decker BM3B for 6/12 volt and it's been doing pretty good for the old 6 volt 47 IH K2 truck as well as the tractor and 12V Cub. As I turn off the fuel when parking the Cub, I've learned to open the valve and wait about 5 minutes for the carb bowl to fill before cranking. In cold weather I open the throttle almost all the way and go full choke. Usually on the 1st crank she'll light off and I quickly back off the throttle while balancing a fast idle and choke. Then I let it fast idle for about a minute before going forward.

 

[PACub100]

For my CC102 over winter I use a Diehard 2A trickle charger. Stopped leaving it on 24 hrs. Now connected to a simple grounded timer it turns on for 30 mins each day and keeps battery well over 12v. Kinda what we did with Elec-Traks; when pack voltage fell to 38v a smartcharger took voltage back to a pre-selected 44.5v and turned off. (A 36v pack would be fully charged at near 45v)
Jack

Now that there's a darn good idear right thar I do say...

 

[mgonitzke]

I've learned to open the valve and wait about 5 minutes for the carb bowl to fill before cranking.

Bowl will be full by the time you go from standing next to the tractor to sitting on the seat.

 

[Greg Riutzel]

I didn't say it takes that long, it's just what I do. By the time I've checked the oil and open the barn door, it's ready.

 

[Curt Doles]

Thanks for the info @Curt Doles I have a trickle charger and I use it frequently. I'm curious about what you consider a high quality trickle charger. Perhaps my harbor freight job isn't cutting it? It does make a difference and that is why I keep using it. It has rescued my not so good batteries many a time. It's just that when the cold sets in, its not enough. I'm still thinking that I just have bad luck with tractor batteries. For now, the jump pack I just got is working out good.

I started using the HF chargers and had a meltdown on one and a biker buddy with the same experience. The higher quality chargers have more sophisticated charging circuits that give some feedback like reverse hookup notification, full charge partial charge notification. I think they go to a 100ma charge when they sense full charge. Maybe that's my own bias but I would bet if you did engineering/electronic analysis it would bear that out.

 

[Bret McFarland]

Bowl will be full by the time you go from standing next to the tractor to sitting on the seat.

Matt -- you're actually telling someone how long it takes for fuel to fill the fuel bowl?

 

[mgonitzke]

Matt -- you're actually telling someone how long it takes for fuel to fill the fuel bowl?

Someone could read that and actually think it takes that long to fill the carb. Not everyone here is going to be at the same level of understanding of how all of these things work.

 

[Neil Mullins]

I don't know if this is possible to do with a 782 but, my 149 was impossible to start in the cold Minnesota winters. So, I bought a complete clutch set- up from a gear drive and installed that. Now depressing the brake pedal to start also releases the clutch (like a gear drive) so the hydro pump is not being turned over during starting. I have a magnetic electric heater, and I haven't used it since I installed the clutch years ago. If this is possible to do on a 782, I would highly recommend it.

I was wondering who else might think of that..

 

[rfunk]

Bowl will be full by the time you go from standing next to the tractor to sitting on the seat.

Extra inline filter on my 149 does like the extra time. Additional question: would a badly-worn throttle shaft also make starting harder?