Clutch issues

[Jamocha]

Attached is a link to my 126 running. I’m not sure what the issue is except it won’t move very much unless I have the clutch pressed just so.
126 running video

 

[digger]

Attached is a link to my 126 running. I’m not sure what the issue is except it won’t move very much unless I have the clutch pressed just so.
126 running video

A well lite pic of it not running will help a lot.
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_clutch.html

 

[digger]

Attached is a link to my 126 running. I’m not sure what the issue is except it won’t move very much unless I have the clutch pressed just so.
126 running video

I see you have a greedbay aftermarket clutch disk and what the heck is this thing????

 

[Jamocha]

A well lite pic of it not running will help a lot.
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_clutch.html

I read through that portion of the manual and I am trying to see if that will help. Here are some photos of it

 

[Jamocha]

I see you have a greedbay aftermarket clutch disk and what the heck is this thing????
View attachment 158765

I apologize, but what are you referring to? I have no idea about the clutch that is in the machine except that it’s obviously not original

 

[Jamocha]

Here is another

 

[digger]

I apologize, but what are you referring to? I have no idea about the clutch that is in the machine except that it’s obviously not original

There's so much wrong there man. SIGH!!!
It looks to me like the teaser spring is either broken or mashed flat, no anti-rattle springs, clutch assembly is way off in it's location, Red Pulling main spring and on and on.
Check the link I posted and you'll see what I mean.

 

[digger]

Here is another

 

[digger]

Check go download the Service Manual, that will help a lot.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x6-7 Service Manual.pdf

 

[Jamocha]

Suboptimal

 

[Jamocha]

Suboptimal

Ignore the turkey decoy my son was playing in the background of the photos lol

 

[spndncash]

There's so much wrong there man. SIGH!!!
It looks to me like the teaser spring is either broken or mashed flat, no anti-rattle springs, clutch assembly is way off in it's location, Red Pulling main spring and on and on.
Check the link I posted and you'll see what I mean.

Digger i am soooo disappointed in you! clearly red paint increases the performance in a spring! haha. I also see the historical remnants of one rattle spring on one of the pins! - I thought you (or maybe some other sponsor) offered a clutch rebuild service or exchange system. you are right though, there is more wrong with this clutch than right. best method would be to start fresh- if the shaft was drilled out to put that bolt in that may be scrap.
I dont think the shaft should have any fore and aft movement but it looks to be moving about an inch in and out of the motor based on how clean that shaft is at the flywheel - digger can get you what you need to make this work the right way for another 50+ years

 

[Jamocha]

Digger i am soooo disappointed in you! clearly red paint increases the performance in a spring! haha. I also see the historical remnants of one rattle spring on one of the pins! - I thought you (or maybe some other sponsor) offered a clutch rebuild service or exchange system. you are right though, there is more wrong with this clutch than right. best method would be to start fresh- if the shaft was drilled out to put that bolt in that may be scrap.
I dont think the shaft should have any fore and aft movement but it looks to be moving about an inch in and out of the motor based on how clean that shaft is at the flywheel - digger can get you what you need to make this work the right way for another 50+ years

Are you referring to the bolt holding the press plate in place? I assumed they simply swapped the roll pin out for the bolt for whatever reason

 

[Jamocha]

Digger i am soooo disappointed in you! clearly red paint increases the performance in a spring! haha. I also see the historical remnants of one rattle spring on one of the pins! - I thought you (or maybe some other sponsor) offered a clutch rebuild service or exchange system. you are right though, there is more wrong with this clutch than right. best method would be to start fresh- if the shaft was drilled out to put that bolt in that may be scrap.
I dont think the shaft should have any fore and aft movement but it looks to be moving about an inch in and out of the motor based on how clean that shaft is at the flywheel - digger can get you what you need to make this work the right way for another 50+ years

Also, what is the diameter of of the shaft? without being in front of it I am guessing 5/8"? would it be crazy to just get round stock and machine the holes into myself assuming I have the means to do so?

 

[Jamocha]

If I have to replace the actual shaft I was thinking of just drilling my own and using this McMaster-Carr Round Stock

 

[spndncash]

sorry I dont know the shaft diameter or the hole spacing. the drive shaft should have all spirol pins no bolts. the holes can get a bit oblong and worn out when bolts are used. this is not a good idea. the spirol pins are held in the shaft by the spirol spring force against the hole bore. this means there is no back and forth and it wont fall out- but it allows the clutch pressure plates to float axially and disengage from the friction plate. the bolt can only be tightened by clamping the pressure plate in place. this means the clutch pressure plates cannot release from the friction disk. So, when you press the clutch pedal the driveshaft/input to the transmission spins with the engine so you grind gears all the time. even if you use a locking nut the bolt is not going to be tight in the hole in the drive shaft and the holes become oblong and worn out. A new drive shaft is not that expensive and it may not even be ruined.

 

[lpalma]

The drive shaft is 18.19" long,
From the front,

First hole is, 1.125" (front plate)

Second hole, 2.255 (rear plate)

Third hole 9.250" (tension spring)

Forth Hole, 13.250" (rear coupling creeper)

Fifth Hole 17.9375" (rear coupling no creeper)

 

[Jamocha]

The drive shaft is 18.19" long,
From the front,

First hole is, 1.125" (front plate)

Second hole, 2.255 (rear plate)

Third hole 9.250" (tension spring)

Forth Hole, 13.250" (rear coupling creeper)

Fifth Hole 17.9375" (rear coupling no creeper)

What about the diameter?

 

[Jamocha]

sorry I dont know the shaft diameter or the hole spacing. the drive shaft should have all spirol pins no bolts. the holes can get a bit oblong and worn out when bolts are used. this is not a good idea. the spirol pins are held in the shaft by the spirol spring force against the hole bore. this means there is no back and forth and it wont fall out- but it allows the clutch pressure plates to float axially and disengage from the friction plate. the bolt can only be tightened by clamping the pressure plate in place. this means the clutch pressure plates cannot release from the friction disk. So, when you press the clutch pedal the driveshaft/input to the transmission spins with the engine so you grind gears all the time. even if you use a locking nut the bolt is not going to be tight in the hole in the drive shaft and the holes become oblong and worn out. A new drive shaft is not that expensive and it may not even be ruined.

I am assuming standard roll pins won't cut it for this application

 

[lpalma]

5/8 when you remove the old driveshaft, compare it to the measurements you have. If it is not the same then there is another issue...