CC 1450 S/N 205066OU604956 return to operation

[james.welbaum]

I’ve been wanting one of these for a while and finally bit on a 1450 that was for sale locally. This isn’t a total restoration rather a disassembly, assessment and repair to operation.

The plan is to start at the front with the engine, electrical and lift hydraulics. Then move on to the transmission. In the picture below I have removed the front tires, PTO, exhaust, hood, front end, gas tank, lift cylinder, hydraulic valve. The aluminum baffles were disintegrating as I was taking them apart

 

[PACub100]

While you're in there, disassemble the steering, clean and reassemble with new grease. Highly recommend Kirk's steering upgrade as well as the muffler crutch, Bosch blue coil and transdensor...(sponsor up top).

 

[dschwandt]

"C" channel "squeeze", new pin and bushings if needed.

 

[james.welbaum]

"C" channel "squeeze", new pin and bushings if needed.

I have been looking into this. I didn’t know this was an issue until I noticed when pushing the mower into the garage the front axle was flopping around. Then I did some research… Is there a permanent solution? I know the correction was to just squeeze the channel back together but is there some way of welding gussets to the channel to prevent it spreading? I haven’t spent much time looking at that area so I’m not 100% sure.

 

[mgwin]

Unless you are going stump jumping, the "squeeze" should take care of it. Just check it real good for any cracks in the channel. As David referred to, check the condition of the pin, bushings, and coiled spring pin. Remember, it took almost 50 years for it to get that way.

 

[james.welbaum]

Removed the cylinder head definitely dirty and the cylinder walls look like glass but there is no scratches so that’s good in my opinion. Probably a good candidate for a hone without measuring I have no idea. At the very least it’s good for the next size piston.

 

[dschwandt]

Get the head cleaned up w/some sandpaper on a piece of thick glass and polish up the combustion chamber some.
Be sure and use the proper torque sequence when tightening the head bolts.

Clean 'em all up with a wire wheel on your bench grinder including the fat washers.
And don't forget to mark the "S" on the flywheel and "static time" the engine while it's still on the bench, much easier.

 

[hydroharry]

James - you'll have a nice tractor there when you're done. I believe it's an earlier production best I can tell from your pics since I think it has the 3/4" front spindles and the older style steering wheel with the narrow triangular decal covering the bolt to the steering column.

One thing I did notice, the your 14hp K321AQS engine has the dipstick that goes thru the top of the lower part of the block (it's not shoulder mounted) if I'm seeing it correctly in the pics. That means your engine does not have the balance gears. That's exactly the same engine I had in my very first Cub Cadet which was the 1450 as well, and got me started with this hobby.

 

[james.welbaum]

Pulled the PTO off to clean it up and noticed the protective coating coming off the coil. I applied epoxy to recoat the coils. Haven’t finished sanding off the excess.

3 ohms on the coil

Peeled off original coating that was no longer sticking to the coils

Epoxy poured

 

[hydroharry]

James - never actually heard of anyone doing this but looks like you probably saved what's commonly called the field coil. In my experience it's the most common component of this PTO that fails, even more common than the bearing.

 

[james.welbaum]

James - never actually heard of anyone doing this but looks like you probably saved what's commonly called the field coil. In my experience it's the most common component of this PTO that fails, even more common than the bearing.

I have no idea if the epoxy will tolerate the heat. Thought it a good idea though better to cover up exposed wires.

 

[mgwin]

A business that rewinds motors would/should have something that would work, if they would let you have some. You could cut a plastic washer to put over top of it, if you could get it to stay in there. Maybe.

 

[james.welbaum]

A business that rewinds motors would/should have something that would work, if they would let you have some. You could cut a plastic washer to put over top of it, if you could get it to stay in there. Maybe.

Just going to see what happens. If it’s a disaster then I’m prepared to rewind the field coil or dig out the epoxy and try some Glyptal. I honestly think it should be fine.

 

[james.welbaum]

Minor “oops” when sanding the excess epoxy off. Oh well it will all get painted black in the end so the wires shouldn’t be visible.

 

[dschwandt]

Have done that on several of these units
Just applied black silicone gasket mat'l and smoothed it off with a straight edge.

 

[wh cc guy]

Welcome. Looks like you have a good start, Good luck with it.

 

[james.welbaum]

Applying some rust converter to the PTO parts. Of course those parts that rub together in normal operation will have what ever rust converter or paint that gets on those surfaces wire wheeled off.

 

[dschwandt]

It will all wire wheel off very easily after an overnight soak in plain white vinegar.

 

[james.welbaum]

Does anyone have a good understanding what’s going on inside one of these voltage regulators? Or how to check it while it’s off the mower?

Or where this load resister fits into the whole scheme of things?

It’s not really depicted in this diagram

 

[hydroharry]

Can't really help on the V/R thingamajigy. All I know is they either work or don't.
As for the load resistor - never seen one on any Quiet Line.
Really wondering what you got there for electrical set up.