CC 125 pto clutch removal

[Paul Turner]

I have a 125 and have a problem removing the PTO clutch. The locking collar bolts and or set screws are broken off. I have tried drilling them with no luck. Any tips on what to try? can it be cut off without damaging anything?

 

[abthomas]

are you talking about the allen set screws in the 3 holes around the outer perimeter of the clutch,2 screws per hole ? or the locking collar that holds the pto brg to the crank ?

 

[Paul Turner]

the locking collar that holds the pto brg to the crank

 

[abthomas]

you could use a cut off wheel or a die grinder just don't booger the crank too much ! cut most of the way and try a hammer and chisel and it should split ! If I remember the collar has a short bolt and jam nut and an allen set screw . You need a small cut off wheel to get in there possibly on a dremel tool , tough place to try and drill out ! If it wasn't locked to tight you might try a puller gently and see if it will pull off a little scuffing on the crank shouldn't hurt anything too much ? maybe even a little heat on the collar to gain some expansion prior to pulling ? maybe cut the brg off to get it out of the way ?

 

[dsarow]

Many set screws will reverse themselves out by using left hand drill bits,run in the reverse settings on your drill at a slow feathering speed.Fastenal has them

 

[Paul Turner]

you could use a cut off wheel or a die grinder just don't booger the crank too much ! cut most of the way and try a hammer and chisel and it should split ! If I remember the collar has a short bolt and jam nut and an allen set screw . You need a small cut off wheel to get in there possibly on a dremel tool , tough place to try and drill out ! If it wasn't locked to tight you might try a puller gently and see if it will pull off a little scuffing on the crank shouldn't hurt anything too much ? maybe even a little heat on the collar to gain some expansion prior to pulling ? maybe cut the brg off to get it out of the way ?

Thank you. I will give it a try and hopefully make it work.

 

[Paul Turner]

Many set screws will reverse themselves out by using left hand drill bits,run in the reverse settings on your drill at a slow feathering speed.Fastenal has them

I will see if I can come up with one. Things like that can be a little had to get in this part of Idaho.

 

[gary noblit]

Paul, what I have done before...drill a 1/4 hole in collar and use a long punch to break it loose...it depends mostly on how much room you have to work...

 

[gchunnett]

I dont want to "state the obvious" but do you know that there are three holes for set screws, and TWO set screws in each hole, one with a sharp pointy nose and the other with a stubby nose. I say "statin the obvious"because many folk dont know that the second set screw is there to lock the first one deeper in the hole. No need to bark back at me if im just stating the obvious. but a look at the cut through assembly diagram will show you (what I missed too a LONG time ago)

 

[Paul Turner]

Paul, what I have done before...drill a 1/4 hole in collar and use a long punch to break it loose...it depends mostly on how much room you have to work...

Thank you.

 

[jlord]

you could use a cut off wheel or a die grinder just don't booger the crank too much ! cut most of the way and try a hammer and chisel and it should split ! If I remember the collar has a short bolt and jam nut and an allen set screw . You need a small cut off wheel to get in there possibly on a dremel tool , tough place to try and drill out ! If it wasn't locked to tight you might try a puller gently and see if it will pull off a little scuffing on the crank shouldn't hurt anything too much ? maybe even a little heat on the collar to gain some expansion prior to pulling ? maybe cut the brg off to get it out of the way ?

As far as cutting it off goes, you could also use a vibrating "multi-tool". I bought one at " Harbor-Fright! " and it has worked to get into places a "normal" tool can't. The only caveat is the replaceable blades seem to be proprietary, but they're not too awful expensive and there are many different kinds and types. Just a thought.

 

[jack casey]

As far as cutting it off goes, you could also use a vibrating "multi-tool". I bought one at " Harbor-Fright! " and it has worked to get into places a "normal" tool can't. The only caveat is the replaceable blades seem to be proprietary, but they're not too awful expensive and there are many different kinds and types. Just a thought.

Perfect job for my Fein Multimaster. Another thought.

 

[jlord]

Perfect job for my Fein Multimaster. Another thought.

I would have bought one of those, but it was outside of my budget.

 

[rfunk]

My choice for removal of bearings in bad spots has been carbide burrs in the die grinder. Cuts bearing steel, but clean up the micro-splinters with a magnet. Those little buggers are crazy sharp and almost invisible. Mail order available from many sources, for the burrs. As abthomas said above, cut most of the way through [opposite sides], then use a chisel, when the remaining steel starts to "blue" from cutting.

 

[HKCooper44]

If you're trying first to get those set screws out of the main body, use a carbide bit to drill them, then use the appropriate "easy out". Try this first before cutting, chiseling or blasting the PTO assembly. First remove the tractor's grill and grill surround as well as the muffler so you'll have good access.

 

[gary noblit]

Gents, a reminder,he originly said "locking collar"

 

[HKCooper44]

Gents, a reminder,he originly said "locking collar"

You're right! Has a large pipe wrench been used to attempt to loosen the bearing from it's locking collar?

 

[HKCooper44]

Paul, what I have done before...drill a 1/4 hole in collar and use a long punch to break it loose...it depends mostly on how much room you have to work...

Ditto! I've done it that way numerous times. Just get the grill and muffler out of the way.