Baffled by ignition switch in 1450 Quietline

[rkwilliams]

I've pulled the engine from my 1450 to rebuild, and while I have great access I'm dealing with a lot of other issues. I've been getting some flaky performance from my ignition switch, and I thought replacing that would be easy. HA! The plug on my tractor looks to be factory; it's a molded hard-plastic deal, and wires aren't spliced and fiddled with that I can tell. Problem is that the plug has five slots in it that mate up with five spades on the switch. All the wiring diagrams I've found show this model to have a four-spade switch, and when I go to parts sellers, that's also what they have. The current switch is an INDAK 3-position, and while it has a patent number stamped on it, there's no model number. I realize that these things aren't rocket science, and by cutting and splicing I could make just about any switch work. One terminal has to get battery +, and when in the first turn position (on), the rest of the terminals should get energized with the exception of the "start" terminal which gets juice when the key is turned to the far-right momentary contact position.

Has anyone else with a 1450 (or similar in the Quietline) run into this before? Is there an off-the-shelf switch that I should just be able to plug in? I can find 5-spade switches, but if I get one could end up cutting and splicing wires.

 

[glippert]

Kent - The quietline models all use the same, four connector switch. If your switch has five spades, it's most likely from the x82 series. I'm guessing a previous owner may have replaced the original 4 spade switch with the wrong one. My quietlines all have 4 spade switches, but the plug is a five slot plug, with one slot unused. Have you looked to see if that's the case on your 1450? On my 782, with five spade connectors the extra switch position is for the lights; instead of a separate light switch, the lights are wired through the ignition switch, so there are two "run" positions on the switch - one with lights on & one with lights off. I have a couple pics on my phone that I'll post. CC Specialties, a sponsor at the top of the page, has the correct switch, if you need one.

(Meanwhile, thanks for your post - I'm starting to re-assemble my 1650 and probably would have forgotten to check out the ignition and light switches if you hadn't posted your question. And the picture clearly shows it needs some attention.)

 

[dschwandt]

And this, gentlemen, is why we don't leave these fine machines out in the elements!
\

 

[glippert]

That's the truth, David. This one has been stored inside since I got it a few years ago, but it sure looks like the PO kept it outside. Based on the condition of the frame, engine mounting rails, engine tin, etc, care and maintenance of the tractor wasn't high on his list of priorities. But she's slowly healing...

Kent - let us know what you find.

 

[dschwandt]

Some judicious wire brushing and a few drops of wd-40 may just "cure" that switch.
It's worth a try and may save you a trip to NAPA!!

 

[glippert]

Some judicious wire brushing and a few drops of wd-40 may just "cure" that switch.
It's worth a try and may save you a trip to NAPA!!

That's what I'm hoping for! I'll pull the light switch, too, while I'm at it. I'm sure it's the same condition.

 

[Wallace Fiala]

My 1978 1450 was never left outside and I cleaned it and my current RZT-S after every use. If I was out mowing and it sprinkled I drove it inside and waited. Always removed the deck belt covers cause all they did was hold clippings, leaves and dirt in. Relocated the skimmer wheels on the RZT deck so I could mow closer to trees etc. OOPS, there I go again, thinking I know more than the designers as I'm the one that don't run full governor speed either. Oh well, it's my unit. I can do what I please, yo?

 

[rkwilliams]

I've pulled the engine from my 1450 to rebuild, and while I have great access I'm dealing with a lot of other issues. I've been getting some flaky performance from my ignition switch, and I thought replacing that would be easy. HA! The plug on my tractor looks to be factory; it's a molded hard-plastic deal, and wires aren't spliced and fiddled with that I can tell. Problem is that the plug has five slots in it that mate up with five spades on the switch. All the wiring diagrams I've found show this model to have a four-spade switch, and when I go to parts sellers, that's also what they have. The current switch is an INDAK 3-position, and while it has a patent number stamped on it, there's no model number. I realize that these things aren't rocket science, and by cutting and splicing I could make just about any switch work. One terminal has to get battery +, and when in the first turn position (on), the rest of the terminals should get energized with the exception of the "start" terminal which gets juice when the key is turned to the far-right momentary contact position.

Has anyone else with a 1450 (or similar in the Quietline) run into this before? Is there an off-the-shelf switch that I should just be able to plug in? I can find 5-spade switches, but if I get one could end up cutting and splicing wires.

 

[rkwilliams]

Thanks for the suggestions/help posted. I ended up ordering a switch like the one shown above from a supplier of tractor (mainly Cub) parts. Cost $15. As Greg Lippert pointed correctly pointed out, while my 1450 has a connector with five slots in it, only FOUR of those actually make contact with anything; one is unused. The photos Greg shows could be what the original switch in my tractor looked like, but we'll never know that. At the end of the day, what's important is that one of these spade connectors is going to somehow receive + from the battery. When the switch is turned to its first position, that energizes other terminals with + current with the exception of the "S" terminal (start). That S terminal only gets juice when the key gets moved to its third position, the spring-back/momentary contact position when starting the tractor. At least I think that's how it works. I guess one other terminal may ground things to cut the engine off. My plug with five slots in it will plug right into the switch I get, but the spade in the photo where I have an "X" is not going to be used at all.

So a four-terminal switch would have worked fine for me so long as the blades on it are arranged like shown in Greg's picture. I just didn't have confidence that someone saying he could supply a four-terminal switch would be compatible with positions on my factory plug. Now that I know the deal, I realize the 5-blade switch would work on a broader range of equipment. Hope this helps.

 

[dschwandt]

The female terminal connectors inside the plastic receptacle are more than likely corroded as well.
I suggest removing them one at a time and cleaning them well, tgen replacing them back in the slot.
A tiny flat blade screwdriver works well for this if you do not have the correct tool.
Be sure when replacing them that the tab is bent out some so as to secure the connector back in it's proper slot.
It will/should click into place when reinserted.

You guys have a fine day, I gotta go haul some more anhydrous tanks!
I think it is winding down for this season now, but I have yet to see any planters in the fields.

 

[glippert]

David, that's a good point. I spent a good bit of yesterday cleaning all the connections on my 1650. I use a little wheel brush on my dremmel to easily shine up all the connectors. Snugged them up a bit, adjusted the tab, and added dielectric grease. It's very satisfying to hear it "click" back into place, in a clean socket!

Be safe with that anhydrous & have a good day.