Back up lights/rear floods

[tkhoffman]

Wondering what you folks have done about getting enough light behind you to plow in the night. Seems like it always snows at night and I gotta get to work early.
The old Cubs have the seats high so hiding one under there is nice. For the later cubs (782)
Putting lights on the rear fenders I fear they are too exposed and will get damaged over time. Mounting something on the frame by the raer axle, I wonder if my weights will block the light too much. I'm thinking about maybe a light pole that I will fixture to a custom hitch setup so it raises the lights over my head a bit and it will come off during other tractor duties. What are you guys doing.. if anything?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tony, here's a link to some info on rear work lights. Be sure to scroll all the way down.

 

[hsimon]

Tony- I have one mounted on the fender deck of my 582 and wired it into the rear light wiring. Works great for snow moving and plow days.

 

[tkhoffman]

Kraig, That 10" high pole seems like a nice idea. Maybe I will make something like that but attach it to a Rear Weight Bracket so it's not on the tractor all the time. Incorporate a Connector into the rear light harness (sure, I just made that harness, now I got to cut into it) and then put the mating connector on this light bar/weight bracket.
Hugh
not that I'm a clutz but I just would rather the lights be shielded OR only sticking out there when being used.

Thanks for the ideas..

 

[dtanner]

I found putting this light here keeps it safe .I bought a set of car lights and used one for the 149.

 

[tkhoffman]

Don, is that a sealed beam light? Is it weather tight? Did you wire it into your Headight switch or is there a switch in by the battery?

From a previous conversation... I see you have your seat tilted foward a bit too.

 

[dtanner]

Tony H

That light take a 55 watt bulb and I wired in a switch in from of the seat where the inspection cover is bolted to the fenders . So I can reach down between my legs and turn that light off or on. I did run a fuse and holder under the seat. Lots of light from that light. I did order those seat rubbers from Charlie when he had them for sale ; they do take a lot of the ruff ride away when the tires are chained . I will look for another picture of the light with the seat up for you.

 

[tkhoffman]

I was thinking about using the Inspection cover.. Just as you say, want the light on, reach between your legs . Not to mention it makes wiring very local. I'll be mulling these ideas in my mellon for a bit. That light is nice, not bulky. kind of protected by the seat back.
Thanks Don

 

[jdiederichs]

Using an LED light would save a ton on current draw over an incandescent 55w bulb, so the charging system isn't overtaxed. Tractor output is 15 amps; using electric clutch plus existing lights doesn't leave much for charging already.

Just sayin' from experience....

 

[aaytay]

I wonder if there is a way to connect a rear light to the reverse/deck-cut-off switch on the 82-series tractors? I'm thinking dedicated blower tractor here, so no need to cut out the mower deck anymore.

Move Hydro lever backwards >>> Light goes on
Move Hydro lever forwards >>> Light goes out

Hmmm...

 

[jdiederichs]

Art,

Sure, why not use the microswitch to power the light in reverse? Nice concept and not tough to do! Congrats!

 

[aaytay]

Jim-
Is the power draw of a 55W light similar to that of an electric PTO, or do you think one should use a relay?

I'm not sure why, but it was seeing your name that made me think "82-series" in this thread. That's what brought the micro-switch into the brain.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, brilliant! Please get to work on it ASAP, because as we all know...:

 

[jdiederichs]

Art,

A 55w sealed beam takes ~4amp, I don't recall exactly but I think an electric PTO will pull~7a.
The microswitch is rated (if you can read the printing) on the side of the switch body, for an LED no relay would be needed , but not sure of the switches rating offhand.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs
Now I got a question .

I thought the electric PTO used 7a to engage and then dropped to a lower amperage. The reason behind the two position switch ? Well If you ran an led light you would not need a relay because the amperage would be so low as to cause a wiring heat issue. I happen to have two of these lights laying around in my shop and thought they would make a great back up light . I will say it does a great job .

 

[jdiederichs]

Don,

No way was I rippin' on your rear light; I like the way you have it. I know, I often use parts I have around as well.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

and to make my self clear there ain`t no way I would rip on you; You stuck with me on my 1512 diesel mod for the drive shaft. So I know you are a smart cookie and we should pay attention. I do and I`am happy all the way with our mods. If I would have had a LED light to use I would have used it for the power draw reasons. Jim D ain`t no dumb Guy an I read all your post and know you have btdt or thought you might.

 

[rakins]

Trying to get a message to Don Tanner about my 1772 diesel looking for his expertise on how to change from original clutch type drive shaft to CV shaft from 1440 cub, I would appreaciate your help Don I have read some articles on here about how you did it but I cant seem to find any info on it, can you help? Desperate in NY.

 

[rakins]

Hey Mr. Tanner I hope I am in the right spot this site is very confusing as to where to leave messages, what I have is a 1772 cub cadet that I am trying to change out the driveshaft on to a CV type shaft from a 1440, the shaft coming out of the pump on my 1772 is a course spline so I was wondering if I had to change out the pump shaft on change out the pump? I am not sure otherwise how to chanfe this over, I appreaciate your help,I did find your dog rebuild but that shaft appears to be smooth.

 

[dtanner]

Randy L. Akins
I know a pump shaft from lets say a 149 is the same shaft in my 1512 pump. I changed my shaft only because it had been welded to the drive shaft. I would look for a coarse spline drive plate . I know Jimmy D posted one that would work on my rebuild . did you have to modify the shaft to get the correct length ? Can you post a picture of what you have to install. You should go to the bottom of the CCC MTD page and start a new thread on your tractor so everyone can follow your drive shaft replacement .