Archive through September 30, 2015

[kide]

Just thought I'd make one more comment about small engine timing from my limited experience (Briggs, Kohler, Clinton, Cushman Husky and a few more). We are actually lucky with the point and coil battery ignition on the K-Series motors over the typical small engine flywheel based magneto. Why? because the magneto is engergised by magnets on the flywheel flying past a stationery coil, creating a short burst of voltage, which charges a capacitor and waits for the points to open - all at the right time. If the coil is off a little in one direction or the other, the voltage generated may be less than needed for a good hot spark. Makes 'em miserable, hard starting SOG's ..

The point of this (pun intended) is that while the Kohler ignition may seem more complicated than what you've seen on a Briggs or other engines, it's a heck of a lot more forgiving and I think dependable in the long run.. Thank some Kohler engineer from about 75 years ago for that!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Matt G. Sorry about the setting. I forgot the extra 0. The gap is set at 0.012.

David S. I'll try that. I know the switch is the original one. I didn't try wiggling the switch. With the key on though and the engine not running the clutch wouldn't engage. Looks like I'll be purchasing a new switch.

Hopefully Fancy's 1650 will be the snow thrower Cub Cadet tractor. If not then I'll mount it on the 125 again. Those 42" snow throwers are one heavy critter. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[dschwandt]

Marlin, a 1650 or even a 1450 w/a QA42A is an awesome snow eating machine!!
I have mine on the 1450 at present as the 1650 is due to be torn down to find a flywheel problem. I think there is a busted tooth on it. Dentist anyone??

 

[sblunier]

Gerry,

While I don't disagree with your ignition comments below, I have always found that the Mag 18/20 seem to start easier than the points/coil equipped K series (even the ring gear starter models).......Just my observation.

The other "nice" thing about Mags....they either work or they don't, sometimes not having to fuss over points settings, condensor, corrosion, etc. is worth a few of the potential short falls....

 

[jmitchell]

I don't know about the QA42A..I may buy it..I am for sure planning on looking at it closely..Even at 250 bucks, if a guy has to do much to it, it could get kinda spendy on an item that one might expect to only get 250 back out of if I changed my mind on using it..Boy a cab sure would be nice with a snowthrower.With a wind, it looks like it could get very frosty, very quickly!

Thanks guys.
John

 

[elamott]

Steve:
Read your comment regarding the emulsion tube on the carb. I did have the tube out and it was clean. If I have more problems I will again look at the little holes.

Nic:
Thanks for your comment everyone helps me understand more. I have a Point Slayer electronic ignition that I can dial in the timing.
Earl

 

[wshytle]

John M.-

I don't know if you have already made an offer or not but I'd pull out two Benjamins and ask, "deal?" It's amazing what cash does at times just by being presented.

I'm getting ready to hopefully make 3 cubs in one project. The 128 (Bull) needs a clutch and I have a new one ready. I plan to put the engine out of Bull into a 129 that I've already done everything to (trunion, steering, 44A deck, etc.). I have a rebuilt K301 on the bench that goes back in Bull which is the main puller around here. The clutch I remove from Bull is going into an awaiting 108. It's engine is also on the bench and I've tuned it but I plan on it being a smoker for now. I can move the piston side to side just a tad. Anyway, it ought to prove interesting to see how much gets done. I say this because I plan on doing it all in one day. Now if the weather would just break.

.

 

[memorgan]

Right on Dave S.
Caleb has a 1650 that we over hauled a few years ago.
we mounted a QA 42 on that tractor and it's a snow throwin machine.
He runs through some deep heavy stuff and it never backs down.

 

[jmitchell]

Hey Wayne, I'm going to look at the snowthrower pretty close before I open my mouth about money! But you are right, a lot of times cash is king..

Question for the electrical guru's...Is the main wiring diagram the same for all narrow frames after the original? I know lights and amp gauges and later on electric lifts were options on some models and that those options had their own harness layout.

I had an issue after having a new drive line from the 3 pin drive all the way back to the diff installed on my 126 shortly after buying it 2-3 years ago..I was mowing with it and it just shut down, dead. like there was not even a battery in it, dead. So I towed it back to my shop and began looking at it, going on and installing another known good battery in it..Still nothing. not a twitch on the amp gauge in either direction. Check and cleaned grounds, everything clean bright and tight..Nada...So..I start looking for shorts and wah-la, there was a place in the main harness where the insulating jacket and the insulation on wires inside had been worn through as if it had been rubbing on maybe the driveshaft..So..I bought a new VR, starter solenoid, ignition switch, and a complete new main wiring harness from my local IHCase dealer..I installed it all and the 126 started and ran great...for about 2 months and then shut down,just like before, deader than a hammer, not a twitch on the amp gauge...

I have misplaced my copy of the wiring diagram I had and now need to have a look it it again..I think since I have the deck and deck carriage off, I'm going to use a chain hoist to raise it up vertical enough I ought to be able to examine the harness without having to remove the entire harness..

Anyone have any thoughts on the problem and ideas for a resolution?

Thanks a million.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - I think it might be time to post those pics of me with my 1450 and QA42A.

John E. Mitchell - I haven't posted for awhile but feel like I've got a lot of info to add to the discussions on Snow Throwers - especially the QA42 and QA42A.

I didn't see you mention what tractor you'd be using it on, and I didn't see where anyone mentioned the difference between a QA42 and QA42A. The QA42 only works on Narrow Frame tractors (not the Original). The QA42A works on both Narrow and Wide Frame tractors - supposedly the letter "A" suffix stands for adjustable - so it can be adjusted to fit a Narrow or Wide Frame.

I wanted to point this out because I've had people claim they have a QA42A only to get to their place and discover it's a QA42. You'd never believe the excuses for the error - things like "that's the name on the manual - I didn't know mine wasn't the "A" version"". Both models do look fairly similar.

As for the price - my 2 cents - I've seen them sell for $75 to $300+++. If you happen to run across one that has truly been restored it's probably worth $300-$350 in my view. But restored means more than just a paint job. I'd say it should at least have new auger bearings, good to excellent large chain sprocket, new small chain drive sprocket, excellent chain, good U-joints on the drive shaft, at least new bearings in the right angle gear box, and good key ways on both shafts coming out of the gear box, and a good main drive pulley. The auger should be nice and straight with good welds, not all beat up, bent or torn, and a cutting edge in good condition. And the paint condition is really really important. The snow sticks to rust and clogs these units up. Lots of guys have painted the auger and housing and chute with "Slip Plate" paint. I think Kraig was the one that mentioned most all these things before as things to look and really check over.

It's always nice to find a thrower in really good condition that doesn't need much if anything done to it. On the other hand if you find one in rough condition for $75 it may be well worth going thru everything so you know everything is done and done correctly.

If you think about it - if you get a really nice thrower and are using it in snow and something fails you're gonna be really upset. If on the other hand you get a cheap or rough one and go thru it yourself you're gonna be really happy using it. Yes you'll likely have to put $100-300 into it, depending, and a fair amount of time. None of it is hard to do and none is really hard to figure out - and if you do go thru one it will likely be good for a long long time - like 10-20 years - so I'd figure that time into the price of everything you put into it (i.e. $300 divided by 10 years is $30 per year, which is really cheap in my view).

I loved using my 1450 and QA42A. It was a snow throwing snow eatin' MACHINE!!!! I highly recommend them for hard surface driveways and sidewalks. Using them on gravel/stone is ok but can be dangerous depending on where you direct your chute output. If you do use it on stone I highly recommend having a hydraulic lift. This will allow you to easily "feather" your drop or height setting so you aren't scooping up rocks and breaking windows (in houses and cars) or the neighbor kids heads or teeth.

That's pretty much my 2 cents. I know it's somewhat hard to buy your first one not really knowing what exactly you're looking at. Hopefully you'll come up with something for a price that it's really worth.

Ooh, on your question about the wiring - as far as I know each series of the tractors used a different wiring harness. Your 126 was part of the 1x6/7 series (73/106/107/126/127/147) and the original wiring harness was well known to be a problem. The insulation would crumble in your hands and the wiring itself would corrode and disintegrate. Your replacement harness should have been of good quality wire so this wouldn't happen. I have no idea why you have the same problem as before unless the harness got routed incorrectly. You could have a problem with your Safety Switch connected to the brake/clutch pedal. Also, if you go back to the 1st page of the Forum where the Threads are listed and scroll towards the bottom you'll find a thread showing all the wiring diagrams.

 

[elamott]

Nic:
Tell me more about the crank trigger and electronic ignition that you use. That sounds very interesting if the cost is reasonable. I am getting tired of my issues.
Earl LaMott

 

[nbextermueller]

Earl, there are a few different ones out there. But Midwest super cub is probably the most popular.

http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsupercub/single-cylinder-engine-parts/crank-trigger-ignition-

In a puller, we don't have use for a PTO, so it gets mounted on the PTO end of the Crank. I'm not sure if it would fit between the block and an old manual PTO. Although, I bet there is some room to move a PTO away from the block.

 

[jmitchell]

HydroHarry. First off, thanks a ton for all the info. The sole reason I'm considering a snowthrower is the fact they do displace the snow to another area, as opposed to shoving it off to the side with a grader blade. On the other hand, it don't get much more simpler than a IH Grader Blade and pretending you're a bulldozer with chains! Ha,

The electrical; I bought the harness from my local OH/Case/Cub Cadet dealership..It was NOS IH issue, so unless they upgraded the quality of the wire and insulation, I guess I bought the same trouble prone harness as the original factory installed harness. I'm going to have a close look at it this week-end and see if I can find any rubbed section where the insulation is worn through and creating a dead short..Beyond failing to find any obvious faults in the harness. I'm kinda at a loss as to what they problem is...

Who is making a good quality wiring harness? I see them on Evilbay, but I have no idea of the actual quality of their construction or the materials used in their build.

Any of you resident electrical guru's have any insights you'd be willing to share?

Thanks a again guys.. I have never met a IH Cub Cadet enthusiast who I've never liked, nor a group of people more willing to lend their knowledge of these great old mechanical beasts of burden.

Regards
John

 

[memorgan]

Harry..I see you put in your 2 cents twice...that"s 4 total
With all the info you put up...there"s about $30 dollars worth here!!
How do you fit all that in this little box????

 

[jpatchett]

John M.

Another consideration on snow thrower vs a push blade. How much snow does your area average a week/month or storm?

I generally use the blade to push new snow fall that is less than 4". The QA throwers perform better with more than snow than less. Living in a Great Lake snow belt, I do use the thrower a lot. When I lived on the Detroit side of the state I used the blade more often.

Jim

 

[aschumacher]

John E., e-mail CubCadet specialties (up top business cards) and inquire about cable assy's he handles. Think he does business with a place that makes them special for him.

 

[snicklas]

I have found that a snowblade and snowthrower both have their place.

I have been running a Cub with a blade for nearly 35 years, and I just got a thrower in the spring of 2014, so only had it one snow season.

The blade is nice, it can be used for many things besides just moving snow. We have moved mass amounts of dirt and gravel with our blades. The blade does not care about the "condition" of the snow. If it is lying there, and not frozen into a huge "ice blanket" the blade will move it. (withing reason, if you have 6 feet of snow... the blade will have an issue, so would the thrower... but). But, you have to "plan" on your snows..... you don't just clear to the edge of the drive, you go a pass or three past the edge, so you have room for the next snow(s).

The thrower is nice, because you can put the snow "up and over" the previous snow, or even some obstacles. However, a thrower is picky about the condition and amount of snow you have. Being a single stage thrower, trying to throw and inch of snow may be futile. Also, if your snow is always "wet" rather than fluffy snow, the wet stuff is like trying to throw mud, and will clog the thrower. Now, if you have 4 or 5 inches of relatively "dry" snow, the the thrower will be happy.

Since I have both, I keep the thrower mounted on the 1650, and the blade on the 1450 (it is a hydro angle blade, and the 1450 has the ports). That way I can use either one. But, here in Central Indiana, normally I get on the tractor with the blade, and use the thrower as "second out". I do use the thrower for the sidewalks because it is the same width, and not as likely to tear up the grass along the sidewalk (not all the sidewalks I do are "inside" my property).

With a thrower, you need to make sure you have plenty of weight on the rear of the tractor. In, my 35 years using the blade, I've NEVER needed extra weight. (I am ~350lbs in my winter gear). With the thrower, I have all kinds of trouble getting around. I am going to add my 150lbs of weight to the back.... the thrower is HEAVY!!!!!

I like having the option of both. But in my opinion, if you are ONLY going to have one... I would have a blade.....

 

[jmitchell]

Scott and Allen.. Thanks for the info..I'm about in the mind-set that if the snowthrower is not really nice and selling cheap, I'm thinking I'll probably pass on it. As of right now I'm not sure if I need a new wiring harness..But I did send an email to CC Specialties inquiring on availability and pricing with shipping..

Getting my new front tires mounted tomorrow!

Anyone else want to weigh in on the electrical issue I reported?

Thanks guys
John

 

[hydroharry]

Mick M - I probably should'a said "2 Bits, 4 Bits, 6 Bits A DOLLAR - All for Hydro Harry stand up and Holler!!!!"

John E Mitchell - I agree a lot with what Scott N described, except I didn't seem to need all the weight mentioned. He's definitely correct about the amount of snow. Clearing a skiff to about an inch just isn't worth using a thrower, unless that's all you've got. My 1450 came with a blade and I used that for about 7 years while looking for a thrower. When I did finally find one (before the internet) I actually found 3 and bought all of them. I just figured if they were that hard to come by I better get them while I could and hope I had enough good parts for at least one. Turned out they all were in actually pretty good shape. Just keep this in mind when you look and decide. You're really not talking about a hole lot of money here. And if you do get a foot of snow it's a lot easier working with a thrower than a blade.

(One other thing I didn't mention and should have. Kraig mentioned it too. That small chain sprocket is mounted on a drive assembly that is die cast or cast aluminum. It's prone to wear on either side of the sprocket and cut into the area where the needle bearings are mounted. It's a pricey replacement part so I'd hope you get a good one. The sprockets need to line up and by design the small one will slide on its shaft - but that's what causes the problem. The solution to the sprocket cutting into the cast assembly is adding shims or washers on either side. It's not described in the manual but once you look at how the unit works it's easy to identify how it helps.)

On your wiring harness, even a NOS should have been better quality. I think IH discovered the problem pretty quickly. The insulation on the problem harness is a type of hard cloth and seems to absorb moisture allowing both the cloth and wiring itself to disintegrate. If you have plastic insulation you've probably got a good harness.

As for your electrical problem - I mentioned the safety switch on the brake/clutch pedal linkage. If you look under your tractor you'll see it on the a piece of channel steel welded between each side of the frame. When you press on the brake/clutch pedal you'll see the rod it's welded to will rotate and it has a spring steel lever that contacts the safety switch allowing the tractor to start. If the switch has failed you don't get any power to most of your harness - not even the amp gauge as I recall. You can disconnect the plug with 2 wires to the switch and put a jumper across it then try starting. It's a somewhat common failure item (I only say this cause half the tractors I've owned have had it by passed).

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - did you loose mine using the 1450 and QA42A????

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, nope, I never lose a photo.

Here's the photos of your 1450 and QA42A throwing wet snow.

Here's A LINK to the archives where I posted photos of the shims I added to prevent wear of the cast aluminum chain tensioner. The post was in 2012 but I added the shims in 2000. The post is way towards the bottom of the linked page.