Archive through September 30, 2013

[kide]

Frank: Glad to see they're getting young blood into Cubs and hopefully to work 'em ( not taking away from those that have restored 'em, but I still think Cubs are too useful to set on a trailer and admire)..

Amy: I'm with you... I'll go South before I face that white stuff again..

 

[fcurrier]

Gerry: My mission now as far as the CCs go is promote the things. I've gone about as far as I can with "collecting" them - it's time to try to pass the torch. I think with that point of view I can let some more go down the road if I know they're not going to get parted out. Trouble is, I still look at wheel weights, lights, sleeve hitches, etc. and try to price accordingly. Plus, they all have their own stories as to how they got here in the first place.

 

[sshaff]

Steve B and others -- I'm concerned about whether using the front blade extension braces can work on my QA tractor since the QA hooks are in the way...they already prevent the bracket from being oriented vertically (see my earlier photo). The extensions are straight so it seems to me they wouldn't line up properly with the hole above the QA hooks? Any thoughts?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve S., I'm doubtful that the style blade sub-frame that you have will work with a NF QA tractor without modifying it. This is the style blade sub-frame you need. Note how the mounting tabs go out and around the QA ears.

 

[sshaff]

Craig -- Yes, those are my thoughts too after carefully considering other's suggestions. At first I thought the extension braces would work but after looking at my photos again (and a pic of the extensions) I thought otherwise. Just wanted to be sure before I buy 'em. Hopefully I can find a QA subframe somewhere...

 

[mpatterson]

Just to confirm on a K241 when hooking up the coil. The - side has the wire for the condensor and the points on it and the + side has the positing lead from battery going to it - right??

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike, actually the + side goes to the ignition switch.

 

[bjamison]

I've got a snow/dozer blade from my 122 and would like to adapt it to my 126. I've asked this same question. Might be an interesting winter project.

126 update: replaced the fuel bowel assy and the condenser earlier and it"s running great. Put it back into camp mowing duty this weekend. Even with the fast 2nd gear, it was great mowing with this tractor. 48 inch deck and the 2nd gear make for some quick grass cutting. One thing I don't like are the anti scalp runners at the edge of the deck. I can see snagging one of those in a piece of woven wire fence when trimming!

109 update: the engine is very tired and ready for a rebuild. It's finished for the season. I picked up a 14 HP Kohler from a donor 147 or 149 and may swap it in the 109 and see what I got.

1650 update: just for kicks went out and tapped the key in it and fired up like a champ. Very smooth running and quite at full throttle. Adjusted the #30 carb - super easy. Next up is testing the PTO and then put the hood and side panels on. After all the pain in getting this tractor back together, it might be sweet runner in the end.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill, the blade sub-frame from your 122 will likely be the same as Steve S. is dealing with, see September 29 archive page. In order to fit it to your 126, which is a NF QA frame you will need a blade sub-frame like the one I posted for Steve S. below. Or you will have to modify the sub-frame to fit around the QA ears.

 

[lpalma]

Steve Shaff...
Here is my try,just drill two holes insert a long rod and be done with it.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig, Steve S., Bill,

It does look like there may be too much interference to use the straps.

If the quadrant sits level with the bracket just touching the QA hooks, you could make slightly longer straps...but only if the quadrant sits level (otherwise your blade will not be level when angled).

The brackets are just simple flat iron with holes drilled in them....easy fab for anyone with a hacksaw and drill.

 

[sblunier]

Lewis's method shows promise as well....provided the quadrant remains level......

 

[mpatterson]

Kraig,

Thanks, I was right then - the reference that I got the info from was sort of wrong. I thought I was loosing it again! Tried firing up the K241 today, cranks over good, have spart when I touch the plug against the clutch pedal. Hmmm... couldn't have have screwed up the timing when I took the head and valves off could I ???
At least now the fuel isn't spitting out the bottom hole of the carb!

Charged up the battery again this afternoon. Was hoping that maybe I just flooded it. It was wet in the cylinder and the plug was wet too?

 

[sshaff]

Thanks, everyone, for weighing in on my front blade. Since it would be used only for show I'm fussy about it being correct.

 

[fcurrier]

Mike: Took head AND valves off? Guess I wasn't keeping track.

 

[mpatterson]

Hey Frank,
Yes, I pulled the engine on the 100 about 2 weeks ago. Previously I had cleaned the carb, rebuilt it with new parts & gaskets thinking the NOT running faster than idle was the problem. It didn't work. Had gas being spit out the bottom hole of the carb when choked, wouldn't fire (even after setting the timing the static way), changing the coil(after blowing the other one up), condensor, points, plug, wire, air filter. SOoooooo.....
Once it got hot, it wouldn't idle up at all. Many had suggested I pull the valves, likely gummed up. Yep! They were very caked up with crap that I almost had to chip off with a screwdriver. So I got that cleaned up as well as scraping the crud off the top of the piston. Replaced the head gasket and re-installed everything. Along the way, I also replace the pto bearing and rebuilt the clutch as well with new bearing and springs. So I finished assembling things this morning and rolled it over for the first time. It cranked over at a decent clip, but wouldn't fire. I pulled the plug, it was wet as well as down on the cylinder it was too. I tesed for spark using the clutch pedal, there is a decent amount of spark. I am hoping I just flooded it? But I ran the battery down a bit, so I threw it on the charger. Will try it again in the next day or two. I am hoping the next time I go back to it, I see something that is very obvious I might have missed and it will fire up for me? Won't have too much time to frig with it soon. Soybeans are getting closer to being ready. The Old Man took part of his off today. First couple round came off at 16% moisture according to the combine, and between 50 to 60 bushels too. Have not heard back from him what the final numbers were after going to the elevators with them. Friend of mine took part of hers off on Saturday, 11% moisture and 56 bushels/acre. She was happy!

Had the furnace guys over today installing a new furnace. The one worker was eyeing up my 982, thought it was quite the tractor. Then I told him how old it was, his eyes kinda lit up and was impressed at how good of shape it was still in. Made me feel good!

 

[fcurrier]

Mike: Now I'm up to speed. Did you reset the valve clearances? Is the head torqued OK with a new head gasket? (Hard to retorque it if it won't start, ain't it?).
Haven't seen "frig" for awhile!

 

[mpatterson]

Checked clearance on the valves with feeler gauge according to manual for K series engines. Torqued it down when I assembled it, 30lbs. according to chart. What happens if you over tighten the head bolts? I have a "click type" torque wrench, doesn't seem to click much at 30lbs and they are not really tight? Just curious?

 

[fcurrier]

Did you go around a couple (or 3) times on the head bolts? I have a beam torque wrench that I've double checked the click wrench with. Of course, I'm also the guy that used to double check calculators when they first came out with a pencil and paper!

I'm going someplace with this. A leaking head gasket or improperly adjusted valves aren't conducive to proper starting. A leaking carb float or one that isn't adjusted to close the inlet valve doesn't help. Fortunately, you have spark! The condenser and points are hooked to the negative side of the coil?
Now that we've entertained the lurkers and you've closed the gas valve off for the night, can we go to bed?

 

[dtanner]

Mike Patterson

I got a question for you (I tested for spark using the clutch pedal,)

Are you sure the ground to the engine is clean and good.Check to see if the plug has spark when grounded to the top of the engine.

Frank

I like to retest head bolt torque more than once. I just wish IH would have made the the bolts accessible through the cover. I hate having to take every thing off to get at the head bolts.More than once I have found the bolts were off after a few usages of the tractor.