Archive through September 29, 2013

[dtanner]

Mike P

i used the graphite paint on my blade for moving snow. I found the snow did not stick fast to the blade and would roll off . I used it under my mower deck and find the grass does not stick or have as much grass stuck fast if not used. I have yet to put it on a snow blower but will this winter and I expect it will work well. I will have paint matched and have done so on my 129 loader and I`am happy with the results. and I`am the one who the paint results has to please . Later Don

 

[thoffman]

I believe it stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer".

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good Morning, All.

David Schwandt. THANK YOU for helping answer the question that Angel posted. Since it rained yesterday, I hope to get some more work done to Fancy's 1650. I've put it off long enough and with the engine out the cleaning has begun. I would take pictures only... WOW!!!... once I got my hands dirty trying to remove all the sludge built up over the years, I wasn't even going to try and take any pictures.

Mike P. That technology of using a computer to match paint chips/flakes goes back to the late 70s. At that time I was told that the government had the ability to do matching like that only it wasn't yet in wide usage like it is today. And for using the graphite on the snowthrower or front of a blade. I'm using it this year for the first time. That blade gets a bit heavy with snow sticking to it and I'm tired of a pugged chute on the snowthrower.

It's a very dew heavy 46* outside right now and it looks like the sun is going to be shining. May everyone have a wonderful day.

 

[slewis]

thanks tom

 

[bbranstetter]

Good news, the motor is done!

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN - Think I'd figure out a way to mount that oil PSI gauge permanently.

 

[bbranstetter]

Its going in the dash. I just tied it up there to test the motor and make sure things were right this time around. I'm going to put the maintenance minder under the hood in the bezel that came with the oil gauge. I still have to pull the motor back out to retourqe the head bolts. It's going to be another week or two before I get every thing buttoned up once and for all.

 

[sblunier]

PS upgrade.

I will try to post the pics of the PS conversion this evening......good intentions, no time to sit down and go through them.......

 

[sshaff]

Having difficulty mounting my front blade subframe to my 73. The back ends are secured in place exactly as shown in the manual, but the front ends do not line up properly with the tractor frame. One side makes contact with the mule drive latch (as shown in the pics). How is it supposed to fit? Any thoughts on this?

 

[dtanner]

Steve Shaff

That nf sub frame gets bolted to the frame and does not connect using the quick attach like a wf tractor would . Bolts thought the frame is how it attaches .

 

[sshaff]

Don, we're not trying to use the quick attach, but the latch is in the way for bolting it on...and it's not lining up right. It's too narrow to bolt on the outside and too wide to bolt on the inside.

 

[dschwandt]

Steve, That's the same subframe I have with the "O" Blade I got last month. Same problem here also. Won't fit the O, the 70, or the 73.
I gotta drill some more holes and I don't want to do that so guess I'll have to make up a pair of mounts of some sort that will fit existing holes or adapt to the quick latch.

 

[sshaff]

My aunt and uncle gave me this blade. From pics I've seen from back in the day I believe their cub might have been a 102 or 122. Would that matter? I thought these were supposed to fit all narrow frames

Maybe it would work on my 123?

 

[kharvey]

Steve S I believe you need some more pieces to bolt that to the frame. If I recall it actually bolts to a non QA mule drive. Maybe Kraig will chime in tomorrow.

 

[mmasheris]

There are two pieces that bolt to the uprights and go to the hole where the 122 mule drive goes you have the wrong subframe for a quick tach frame it has two pins that go into the mule drive.Look in the parts lookup and you will see.

 

[sshaff]

Kendal -- We attached a mule drive mount from a 70 hoping the subframe might bolt onto that. Unfortunately, though, the holes in that didn't line up with the subframe either (consistent with Dave S's experience). This makes me wonder what model this blade was intended for....Aren't the mule drive mounts for a 70 and 122 the same?

Michael--Do you know if my blade would be compatible with a QA subframe, or is the entire blade setup different for a QA?

 

[sshaff]

This is what we tried:

 

[sblunier]

 

[sblunier]

It does work like your last attempt, but only on non-QA....

 

[sblunier]

Power steering pics:

I used an old column with bad gear box to extend the short PS box off of the cyclops. An exhaust pipe expansion joint made for a strong connection. Steering shaft from old column was used an an old steering wheel gave up it's center section (hub) to mate to the splines for a good tight joint. I cross drilled the splined joint for a roll pin and then safety wired it in place.

It will take some plumbing to tie it all in. I sent Charlie a copy of the CCC steering and axle manual; if it isn't already in the FAQ's or archives somewhere, maybe he can add it so everyone has access to the hose routing diagrams, brackets, etc.

Note: there is a priority valve in the steering hand pump and oil must be routed through the steering and lift valve correctly for all to function as it should.