Archive through September 28, 2010

[jrlewis]

RICHARD T. Dennins is right preheat the hole part to about 400 deg., do not try to speed weld it will get too hot to quick, have help to keep part at temp. After you have finished welding use a torch and keep heat on it for a about 3 to 4 minutes moving heat away form part as time passes, but do not cool very much. Now at this time I have a pile of sand on the ground big enough to place part in and cover with 4 to 5 inches of sand all the way around, to keep it for losing heat too fast leave alone for about 4 hours or untill sand has dropped in tempature to where you can touch it and feel no heat. This has worked for me on several cast steel and iron parts, that have stress on them. Yes welding will make it weaker and brittle! But you should be ok. On big cast iron parts I have had to use 400 lbs. of sand and have someone heat the sand while I was welding the part.
Hope this helps

 

[mschutz]

Does anyone have a picture of how the 3 point goes on a 126? I have the special bracket but when it swings it hits the rearend????

 

[aaytay]

Lewis-
Why did you mask off the inside of that frame?

(Not questioning your motives, just curious....)

 

[lpalma]

I was just looking to paint the outside instead of stripping everything out of it,Trans,wire harness,hydro lift,ect.It is actually pretty clean inside,The outside was rusted in spots and the paint didn't match the fenders I had just painted.

 

[lhinds]

Charlie we have had 85 days this summer above 95. It now is 48-55 at night and 80-85 daytime. My cub cadets come out and play in the sun.

 

[tillenden]

I can't seem to find the answer to what Windbreaker would fit my 128 or 149. It appears the yellow one would be what I would be looking for, but nothing seems to show the models they fit. I have found a few, but they all say they are from an 82 series.

I just want to know so that if I do run across the right one, at the right price, I am getting the right one.

 

[ljones]

What sould I do when this happens.

 

[rtunison]

Joe, Dennis, again thanks for the advice but when I said cosmetic that's what I meant. Just some JB to fill it in and that's it. This tractor will only see parade and pulling the grandkids around types of usage. The wife said she wanted HER tractor to be different and likes the look of black and chrome so here is the beginning of that wish. The pan will get polished to a high luster as will the head. Chrome nuts and bolts for fasteners in non critical areas.

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD T. - In spite of Kentucky Ken's opinion of JD Weld, it would be GREAT for that repair. I accidently poked a small hole in a metal 5-gal. gas can I only use for kerosene about ten years ago. I mixed up a little dab of JB weld and applied it after sanding off the paint around the hole. It's stuck well and doesn't leak.

I've always repainted my rebuilt engines a semi-gloss or gloss black. With the polished aluminum and chrome highlights that will be a great looking engine in a great looking tractor!

LUCAS - Kinda hard to really tell what that actually is, but looks like a bushing spot-welded onto the steering pedistal,... Or maybe an oil drain plug. Each would have a different repair procedure.

If it's a bushing, grind the spot welds off the face of the bushing, sand/grind/wire brush all the paint off too. And grind the area around the hole where it was attached smooth and free of paint for 1/2 to 1" around the hole, maybe 1/4" bigger than the bushing. Have someone MIG weld a couple small tack welds around the OD of the bushing. Then touch-up the paint.

If it's the oil drain plug you could Heli-coil the oil pan and reinstall a new drain plug, or drill & tap it out to the next oversize pipe thread.

 

[mlamar]

Lucas
I've had that happen to a hood bushing before. I had a guy repair mine by welding it. I think he drilled three small holes in the hood around the hole that the bushing was tacked to and welded through the holes to the bushing. Another possible fix is if you know a body shop repair person ask about an adhesive that is just like a weld that is use to attach body panels without welding them. It's a 3M product. I've heard good things about it but it takes a special applicator (that mixes the two-part adhesive)so that's why I suggest a body shop. Good luck.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, how right you are! I took a day of vacation yesterday to seal my deck. I pressure washed it about a month ago and then I've not had a long enough window of dry weather until now to get it sealed.

Richard C., welcome back!

Roland, per your request, I tried to email this to you but your email rejected it so I'll post it here.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Richard Christensen, Arizona is Hot but its a Dry Heat (Rchristensen) on Tuesday, June 01, 2004 - 11:35 pm:

I just finished a project that has been on my mind for some time and thought I would share. May eat up some bandwidth so bear with me or delete it if you need too.

Some may remember that last year I built a shade for my 1450, made it to be adjustable, mounted to my receiver hitch for quick removal and used a fiberglass cement mixing tray for the cover.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

It worked good but this year I decided to build one for my 782 and decided to go a different route. Found out that you really don't need all of the adjustment range as one size just about fits all and you really don't need the quick removal as you leave it on all the time. Also using the reciever hitch mounting tied up the receiver hitch.

For my 782 I wanted it to be solid, not rattle, not tie up the reciever hitch, and not interfear with a Cat O 3 point if I decide to build one. Also I wanted it to look as much like one you would see on one of the older big IH tractors.

I took the standard 782 rear hitch attachment assembly, removed the hitch plate, drilled another hole and welded nuts behind the holes that didn't have them. Built a reciever hitch that bolts with three bolts to the original 782 assembly. I built it long enough to weld on the upper 3 point center hitch assemby if I decide to add it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Then I built brackets to mount the cab uprights.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Here are the 1 x 2 upright posts connected with 4 each 1/4 inch bolts with lock nuts, this is what you need to remove to remove the cab.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

For the shade part I used a 3 foot by 4 foot .032 gauge piece of alumnium. The hardest part was rolling the sides to get the look I wanted.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Mounting the alumnium top to the square tubing.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Final, out the door.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Happy camper.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[mschutz]

I have to ask this question correctly. I'm trying to mount a sleeve hitch on my 126. I have that special bracket, but when I put on tractor the sleeve hitch hits rearend. I believe that the sleeve hitch came off an older cub, could that make a difference. thanks,mel

 

[kmcconaughey]

Melody, first off, lets get the terminology correct. Are you trying to mount a rear lift as in the IH Cub Cadet 3 point lift? Once you have one of those mounted then you'll need the Brinly Sleeve Hitch Adapter. By "special bracket" I assume you are referring to item # 9 in the exploded parts drawing of an IH 3 point lift below.

 

[mschutz]

Yes Kraig, I'm trying to mount a cub cadet 3 point hitch. #3 keeps hitting rearend.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Melody, when you say "#3 keeps hitting rearend." Where exactly is it hitting? Does it hit the fender pan when you lift it all the way up? Or does it hit the transmission housing when you lower it? Just in case, here is a link to the INSTALLATION MANUAL

 

[kshultz]

Melody,
You say you got it from an older Cub Cadet?
If it's from an Original it won't work. My guess that is the problem. Shown here is the Original.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kent, I was thinking the same thing but, with the angled lift bar and inverted cast part, I don't think that would come even close to mounting on a 126, but then again...

 

[mschutz]

Kraig, It's hitting the transmission housing.

 

[mschutz]

I'm going out to the garage to look this over somemore.

 

[mschutz]

Kraig and Kent thank you for the help. I think I've got it. Not hitting transmission now,just not alot of movement. Thank-you,Mel