Archive through September 27, 2016

[klindstedt]

Time for an update on the 109 that followed me home a few weeks ago. Or should I say *129*

Harry was correct, the engine had been replaced at sometime with a K301 12hp engine. Well... I first worked on tracking down the no-start problem. Turns out that the metal tab that presses on the neutral start safety switch was missing. By jumping out that switch I was able to confirm the S/G would turn over. I removed the gas tank and filled with acetone to cut the old gas 'gunk', rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel lines and filter. With a splash of fresh gas, I got it to start, but only by jumping the battery from my truck and spraying a little starting fluid in the intake. It was running a little rough at first, but settled into a fairly smooth idle. I walked away from the shed and when I came back it had died. This time I got nothing when I turned the key. checked my jumper and it was fine. Had to get ready for church and closed the door on it for the day.

The next day I pushed it into my garage where I have more room and better light and started tracking down the electrical problem again. Finally tracked it down to a flaky, intermittent ignition switch. I jumpered the BAT terminal to IGN and then jumped the S/G and got it to start again. I took it out in the yard and did a few mowing rounds on the lawn. It was making some noise - not exactly a backfire, but could have been. The noise was getting worse, so I brought it up by the garage to fiddle with the carb settings thinking I had it too lean or too rich. Before I could make any changes I noticed it was REALLY hot, like smoking. I shut it down (hopefully) before damaging anything.

That evening I did a little research on the forum for similar problems and decided it wouldn't hurt anything to replace the plug, points, and condenser. I replaced the coil as well because I found it had a crack around the tower that was 'sealed' with caulk.

I replaced all those items, set the point gap at .020, checked that the valve clearances were set at .008 (intake) and .018 (exhaust), which they were close to, just adjusted the intake a little. Tried to start it again and had to jump it again. The starter generator doesn't seem to have enough 'oomph' to turn it over very fast. Got it started, but no great improvement in how it is running.

Wondering now if the ACR is not working and the S/G is struggling against the compression. I also have a new head gasket and I'm going to remove the head to de-carbon and check the exhaust valve movement at that time. Might also try static timing the engine rather than using the .020 setting on the points.

Anything else I should be looking at? Oh, forgot to mention that the air cleaner cover and base were all covered in a black sooty film as I received it from the previous owner and when the tractor was overheating I could see gasses blowing out the air cleaner every so often.

Thanks

 

[hydroharry]

Kevin - seems like you covered most things. I'd definitely do the static timing since I believe timing is critical to quick starting. Also, when you adjusted the valves did you happen to make sure the little oil drain back hole wasn't plugged with crud? I believe it's at the lower right back corner. If it's plugged you'll get oil leakage around the valve cover and maybe excessive oil vapor blowback out the breather cover - which you could believe is coming out the air cleaner cover.

I'd also suggest checking and cleaning up all the ground connections to the frame. You didn't mention the size of your battery, age and condition. Jumping from your truck is ok for now if that's what it takes to get it started.

De-carboning the head and top of the piston, and inspecting valves and replacing the head gasket are all good things to do. You can get a look at your cylinder wall and see how much gap/play there is between the wall and piston. Since it's a replacement engine I would hope it's still pretty decent but there's no way to know until you have a look/see.

I'm not yet suspicious of an ACR issue. If it was it would usually be very slow and hard starting but then run fine once it's going.

You never really know what a PO did to these tractors. Could you post some pics of the carb side of the engine so we can see what holes the Governor spring is connected into? Hopefully the PO hasn't messed with these. I'd also like to see the linkage on the top of the carb and Governor arm connections.

Ooh, and one other thing - your 109/129 would not originally have a fuel line filter (only the strainer in the bottom of the fuel tank). You have to be very careful in the type of filter you install. It's a gravity feed system and many filters restrict and/or block the fuel flow. If you're satisfied you got your fuel tank cleaned up really well I'd remove the filter for now until you resolve your problems and get the engine running really good.

 

[jschaffran]

Not sure what I'm doing wrong -

Bought the IH-48705-R2 belt (Cub 127 with 1A tiller)
Attempting to install it.. the two pulleys under the engine (one spring loaded, the other adjustable) - even with them completely loose, the belt is not long enough.




By Charlie Proctor (Cproctor) on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 07:59 am:
Josh S.
You need a IH-487045-R2.
For Tractor Serial No. 400,000 & below

Or,
IH-549250-R1
For -Tractor Serial No. 400,001 & above


By Bill James (Bjames) on Saturday, September 10, 2016 - 09:59 am:
Josh S.
All Cub Cadet 127's were serial No. 400,000 & below.

 

[mgwin]

Where or when does the plow like mine come into existence?

 

[sblunier]

Harry,

The front studs are not long enough to add spacers to on a QAXxA......that looks like they were lengthened.

 

[digger]

Josh S.
Here's the only options I know of for Cub tillers, I included the one for wide frames and Quietlines, which is the last one listed.

IH-487045-R2 - 13/32" X 143.8"
IH-549250-R1 - 7/8 X 143 7/8"
IH-61959-C1- 7/16 X 145 1/2"

We need some pics of what you really have going on there.
Front mule drive and rear gearbox, top and bottom.

 

[mgwin]

Never mind, found out.

 

[hydroharry]

Steve - well I did say I don't quite agree. I also said I recall the pins being rounded off at the ends almost to a point. I would think you could put some short spacers on them. I do agree it looks like someone changed the pins on Kevin's thrower but it also looks like to me the pins are long enough so spacers would fit and pretty much square up the top links.

Overall it's an interesting question and I'm hoping maybe Mike Frade will be good enough to post some pics of his QA36A on his 73 to show us his spacers. He might be to busy working on his 169 resto and installing that dang blang plastic hydro fan.

 

[kconway]

Harry, Steve,
The picture I posted showing the spacers on the snow thrower is one someone, probably Kraig, posted a few weeks back. And Steve, you are correct it is a QA36A that I'm trying to mount on my 104. The studs on mine are not long enough to allow the braces to be square to the thrower. Maybe that doesn't matter but I would think they would bind up if they are not square. The manual doesn't make much mention of the spacers. I need to make the spacers that go on the big rod on the bottom but those should be easy. I didn't know if someone had longer spacers/studs for the top available or has made them or just what to do. Guess I'll cut the existing studs off and make some new longer ones and spacers to put over them. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the input!

 

[mfrade]

I'll try and grab some pics of my blower tomorrow. Maybe it'll help.

 

[klindstedt]

OK Harry, here are the pictures you suggested I post:

 

[sblunier]

Kevin C.

The braces don;t have to be square to the frames. there is lots of slop in the holes, and as long as there is no clearance issues with any tractor parts (grill housing), then you don;t have any issues.

 

[sblunier]

Here is a QA-42A set up on a narrow frame.......no spacers on top links....

 

[hydroharry]

Kevin - well it looks like your governor spring is connected in the correct holes to the governor arm. Looking at your carb it must either be a Walbro or some other aftermarket unit. I have no faith in those working well and wonder if it could be your problem. But doing the other things you mentioned is still recommended before you go changing up the carb. I also don't see your fuel filter in the pics and still suggest you remove it to insure it's not part of your problem.

Steve - I'm agreeing with you now. Looking at the narrow frame pic you posted with the "A" suffix thrower it certainly looks like you just attach the upper links without spacers - should work as you said. IH was a little sneaky in the pics you posted. The pic without the tractor shows the complete correct thrower with the longer chute extension. The pic with the tractor shows an A-suffix thrower but with the short chute extension which is for the non-A suffix thrower. (Note to self - I was wrong again and that's twice this year. No more mistakes!)

 

[klindstedt]

Harry - yep, Walbro. But it is the adjustable one at least.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I forget who it was that sent me that photo back in 2000. They had the QA42A mounted onto a 102. They had to cut away part of the cast grill for clearance and added the spacers. (Not sure why they cut it away, it should fit... Perhaps they did it to make it easier to mount?

) They had also added some grease zerks to the gear box and auger bearings. Here are the four photos (resized smaller) and text that they had sent me.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Here are some pics of the grease fittings I put in my snowthrower gearbox.
Only one fitting is shown but there is another on the bottom of the input side.
The fitting I put on the auger bearings are a little trickier. the bearing races
are hard so you have to either edm the hole or carbide drill them, then weld a nose
on the bearing race,that can be threaded for the zerk.

Pic of spacers is for ref only. If someone is putting a qa42a on a narrow frame, they
will need these. Tractor pic is the casting removal I did to get the qa42a to fit on my
102 with a quick hitch...<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">And for a better view, here's a close up from the full resolution photo.</font>

 

[mmasheris]

That is not a 102 frame they did not have the Quick release sockets welded to the frame it has to be 125 style frame.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Michael, good point, I never really looked that closely at the photo, just went by what they wrote.

 

[dccook]

My brother & I have been working on the 107 that had been sitting up for years. We rebuilt the carb., cleaned the gas tank & replaced all of the full lines. After replacing the wiring it fired up & ran great. We are having a problem with the hydrostatic. When we first got it we could not get the wheels to free roll in neutral with the valves released. After draining the fluid,replacing the filter & refilling with hydran from tractor supply. We got it to go forward & backwards woo whoo! However it will not pull up a incline. We bought 2 new valves & installed them. same thing is happening, & we still can not get it to roll. Could this be a problem in the drive motor?

 

[hydroharry]

Donald C - did you use a Cub Cadet filter 723-3014 or 923-3014, or a Fleetguard 6096. Other filters that cross reference don't always work.

You didn't mention whether you replaced the valves with the newer auto-release or the original type with the push buttons on the top. If you have the button type the buttons have to be pushed down and kept down while attempting to roll the tractor. I think the auto-release take a little time to bleed off before the tractor rolls. In either case the tractor doesn't roll freely like when a gear drive is in neutral. It will roll but you'll feel some resistance.

Now, about the tractor not going up an incline - is the engine bogging down? Is the engine running fine but the tractor just slows to a crawl even with the hydro control in full forward position?

When you replaced the hydro pump dump valves did you have a look at the trunion and the buttons and springs? (There are lots of details in the FAQs about Hydro creep and crawl).