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Archive through September 27, 2013
- Thread starter kshultz
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Upgrading to power steering is totally worth the effort....but,the cost can be plenty.
Using the 1872 and 2072 I had was just a pleasure and it was 100% due to the power steering.
Finding a one of those dead and swapping the parts is probably your best bet. Should be a bolt in.
Buying the parts off of Fleabay piece by piece will eat you alive.
Using the 1872 and 2072 I had was just a pleasure and it was 100% due to the power steering.
Finding a one of those dead and swapping the parts is probably your best bet. Should be a bolt in.
Buying the parts off of Fleabay piece by piece will eat you alive.
Thanks Dave S... I wrote it down. I know Marlin is most appreciative for the help. Plow Day? no, I won't be coming, and I dont know that Marlin has said if he is going or not. ?? He just said there are two on the same day.
Cath aka Angel
Cath aka Angel
Jeff...I suppose Ya could but that would probably weaken the pin some w/the extra hole.
The pins for plow have a round hole, The slotted hole may make for some sloppy action w/the plow But I don't know for sure on that.
Just get a short piece of pin and make one, unless drilling the 1/2 hole is a problem for you.
The pins for plow have a round hole, The slotted hole may make for some sloppy action w/the plow But I don't know for sure on that.
Just get a short piece of pin and make one, unless drilling the 1/2 hole is a problem for you.
Steve B
The front axle connection for power steering cylinder is where I`am lost on a 129 or my 1512.The tractors that come with ps have a different axle connection. I`am not sure how to move forward because of this. I have all the parts here and would like to put it in use. but don`t know what is the best way to do the cylinder connection on the left wheel.
The front axle connection for power steering cylinder is where I`am lost on a 129 or my 1512.The tractors that come with ps have a different axle connection. I`am not sure how to move forward because of this. I have all the parts here and would like to put it in use. but don`t know what is the best way to do the cylinder connection on the left wheel.
RAY VAN M. - re Trunnion repair part from Charlie. I made one for my 982 a couple years before Charlie offered them. I made mine out of a scrap of 1/4" thk steel and just tack welded it to the existing lever, didn't cut/grind anything off the existing lever. My idea was that the 1/4" thk steel plus the existing material should last MUCH longer than the factory 1/8" steel. No problems in the 7-8 yrs since I did the repair. A prior owner had "fixed" it once before, drilling two small holes and replacing the missing short end with a small cotter key.
The tractor must have had a hard life before the guy I bought it off of restored it. It was the worst worn part of the whole tractor.
SHULTZIE - I've put around 450 hrs on my 982 in the last 12 yrs. Those BIG frt tires steer hard, especially on dry concrete. But I find with 18-20 PSI of air in them they turn just as easy as my old NF CC's with 4.00/4.80X8 tires. I really don't feel P/S is worth it. I did look at a 2072 and test drove it a year before I got my 982, and P/S is a nice feature, but I wouldn't spend the time, effort, or money to install it. Ecen driving slow on dry concrete I can "Palm" the steering wheel from stop-to-stop at slow speeds. I'm not a big fan of "Necker Knobs" on CC's, but wouldn't know how to drive my Super H or M without one.
The tractor must have had a hard life before the guy I bought it off of restored it. It was the worst worn part of the whole tractor.
SHULTZIE - I've put around 450 hrs on my 982 in the last 12 yrs. Those BIG frt tires steer hard, especially on dry concrete. But I find with 18-20 PSI of air in them they turn just as easy as my old NF CC's with 4.00/4.80X8 tires. I really don't feel P/S is worth it. I did look at a 2072 and test drove it a year before I got my 982, and P/S is a nice feature, but I wouldn't spend the time, effort, or money to install it. Ecen driving slow on dry concrete I can "Palm" the steering wheel from stop-to-stop at slow speeds. I'm not a big fan of "Necker Knobs" on CC's, but wouldn't know how to drive my Super H or M without one.
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Shultzie,
I have an OT yellow and white (2072) and absolutely love the P/S. in fact I bought and entire cyclops just swap the Mag 20 and P/S onto my 782. Steve B was a huge help getting me straightened out on both swaps. Although I haven't made the swap yet. I nearly refuse to drive my 782 because of the lack of P/S. the 782 is 3 turns lock-to-lock. My P/S column is 3/4 turn,yes that's less than one turn. It's like learning to drive all over again.
As for parts to swap, the P/S column is is entirely different. So you have to put that part in. Also, you have to splice into your steel hydro lines to feed it. Then the cylinder and bracket bolts to pre-existing holes on the frame. Although using a P/S column with tilt will require you to spice the old column on to it to make work and look right.
Mr. Frisk, I love the Internet because I can hide behind my iPhone and completely disagree with you. P/S on any cub is by far worth every penny and minute it takes. I've even began collecting parts to put it on my GD 128 via a jack shaft driven pump and using the rear end as the hydro tank. I think I saw it on here a few years back.
I have an OT yellow and white (2072) and absolutely love the P/S. in fact I bought and entire cyclops just swap the Mag 20 and P/S onto my 782. Steve B was a huge help getting me straightened out on both swaps. Although I haven't made the swap yet. I nearly refuse to drive my 782 because of the lack of P/S. the 782 is 3 turns lock-to-lock. My P/S column is 3/4 turn,yes that's less than one turn. It's like learning to drive all over again.
As for parts to swap, the P/S column is is entirely different. So you have to put that part in. Also, you have to splice into your steel hydro lines to feed it. Then the cylinder and bracket bolts to pre-existing holes on the frame. Although using a P/S column with tilt will require you to spice the old column on to it to make work and look right.
Mr. Frisk, I love the Internet because I can hide behind my iPhone and completely disagree with you. P/S on any cub is by far worth every penny and minute it takes. I've even began collecting parts to put it on my GD 128 via a jack shaft driven pump and using the rear end as the hydro tank. I think I saw it on here a few years back.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Quick question.
How much better is the steering after you upgrade with the thrust bearing kit that you see from our sponsors versus stock.
I put one of these steering thrust bearing kits on my 1650 but have yet to drive it and around have another one that I plan to put on my 109 and 126.
How much better is the steering after you upgrade with the thrust bearing kit that you see from our sponsors versus stock.
I put one of these steering thrust bearing kits on my 1650 but have yet to drive it and around have another one that I plan to put on my 109 and 126.
Bill,
Quick answer, and only from my perspective. I imagine there will be those who will agree or disagree with me.
Last year, I overhauled the steering column on my 1250 Nightmare. It didn't steer too bad with worn out bearings, no grease, a worn worm follower and no thrust bearing.
After replacing all steering column bearings and races, filing smooth the ridges on the column worm, replacing the tie rod ends on the drag link only; and adding the thrust bearing. I didn't notice too much difference.
This past spring, I re-checked the follower adjustment on the steering box, greased the machine, and replaced the front tires and tie rod ends on the tie rod. It is my belief that the new tires, tie rod ends and grease made the difference in steering.
I would be interested in your experience.
Quick answer, and only from my perspective. I imagine there will be those who will agree or disagree with me.
Last year, I overhauled the steering column on my 1250 Nightmare. It didn't steer too bad with worn out bearings, no grease, a worn worm follower and no thrust bearing.
After replacing all steering column bearings and races, filing smooth the ridges on the column worm, replacing the tie rod ends on the drag link only; and adding the thrust bearing. I didn't notice too much difference.
This past spring, I re-checked the follower adjustment on the steering box, greased the machine, and replaced the front tires and tie rod ends on the tie rod. It is my belief that the new tires, tie rod ends and grease made the difference in steering.
I would be interested in your experience.
A few weeks ago i posted on here i just picked up a 1650 the owner told me he bought it from a friend and couldn't get it to run smooth and it was hunting . he rebuild the carb,rebuild the starter,and scoped the engine through the cam cover to find the governor gear had come off the stub shaft. he lost interest in it and put it up for sale. i pulled the engine and oil pan and cam cover and luckily got the governor gear back on the shaft with some delicate moves. put the stop pin in and it looks like it will be ok. going to put it back in the tractor this weekend to see if it works!!!!!
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Joe, that is great the 1650 is a great machine, does it have front hydraulics..
Have you sent art your 1650 info to be add to the database.
Now collecting tractor serial and engine spec numbers for the 169/1650 data-base.
[email protected]
Have you sent art your 1650 info to be add to the database.
Now collecting tractor serial and engine spec numbers for the 169/1650 data-base.
[email protected]
