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Archive through September 24, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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ED HALL - In answer to Your question on the last page, I used the Dremel on the sparkplug. I didn't remove the head, Iblew compressed air into the muffler to blow the chips out even using the grease-in-the-flutes-of-the-tap trick. Just make sure the exh. valve is open and intake valve is closed. The D9 plug was in that engine for probably 10 yrs and hundreds of hours. I never did get around to replacing the head.
TED B. - Most new ignition coils are oil filled. Oil leaking out will put You in the market for a new coil SOON!
 
Mr Plow...

ROTFLMAO!!!
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cubcubcubcub
 
Bob,

You may have a cracked block! I have had a few engines that act just like that. I have been rebuilding engines since I was 9 (born in 58) and every now and then you get one that just never comes around. I had one 301 that just would not run right! You could swape the ignition system and carb with a known good runner and still nothing.

A local machine shop can help.
 
Bob...
Try to verify the timing using a timing light, you could be firing a little late. Perhaps the cam timing is off, perhaps Dave Kirk could add on that one... check your exhaust gas temp, this will tell you if the fuel is correct... HTH
 
Ted B:

Here is a drawing for the Kohler Ignition Coil. You can check resistance values from the chart. Bear in mind, these values may change once the coil get hot.
Oil leaking from the case is not a good thing. That indicates as previously stated, the makings of a bad coil.
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The condenser has a value of about ~.250 MFD (+/- 10%) if you have the appropriate tester and can check it.
 
Bob,
You might have said earlier but, how do you know it overheats? You might be running the carb too lean.
 
I've tracked down what looks like a pretty decent #2b tiller from a chap out in Des Moines but in doing a bit of research I'm starting to wonder if this is the way to go. I've got a 782 - do they still make drive belts for this setup? Are they really $50 to $80 each!!??

Would I be better off rigging this up with a Brinly plow??
 
S.B......thinking out loud....if everyone had a "dish" on thier hood and you compiled the data.....I bet the amount of miles covered would be incredibly large.

This might be a good way to keep track of Art A. so he can't get lost....
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Digger.......Hows the prize vault shaping up?? Any room left in their yet???
 
Oh yeah - anybody know what the serious "wear parts" are on these tillers? I mean, besides the tines, of course. But is there anything I should be on the lookout for that would make one of them a a bad deal? Can you get new tines for them? Are they pretty rugged?

Sorry about the rookie questions but I don't know a rototiller from a rotorooter.
 
Thanks, guys, I ordered a new coil, condensor, plug, and cool spinner for the steering wheel from one of the sponsors today.
 
Craig,
I'm currently restoring a #2 tiller. So far so good. They seem to be pretty bullet proof. Yes the drive belt is pricey, around 60.00 although I found one across the street for 30.00. I intend to keep my single bottom. I plow in the fall and hope to till in the spring.
 
Steve B.-

Thanks for the clutch info. I'll pick up a friction disk. As for aftermarket (stronger) springs, are they going to be more expensive than a new OEM one? and where would I find one of these stronger springs? And could you go into a little more detail as to what you mean by "true the faces on the clutch plates", as in, true up contact surface in a lathe, or ?

Charlie-

No thanks, I plowed with a slushie (125) at PD10 and I hated having to hold the lever forward to keep moving in that hard ground. Plus the 128 already has spring assist and 3-point installed, and fixing the clutch should be easier than fixing the jerky hydro on the 1450...
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Matt G.
The only time you'll see me grab the hydro handle is to slow down for a gear drive or quit plowin!
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Ya know, cubfaq.com has the fix for a sloppy hydro!
 
Ken,
Now that you mention it.

ANYONE that would like to donate a door prize or raffle item for PD12 at Steve B's is more than welcome to do so and is highly encouraged.

It also makes no dif how big or how small the item or items are, it's the fun of winning something that counts, so don't think that you can't give!!!!

Also, feel free to email me or Steve B. with whatcha got. I think Steve will even take cash!
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Since Tedd is AWOL!

47 participants
39 Plowing
3 Selling
5 Spectators
20 John Deere tractors
39 Cub Cadet tractors
3 Other tractors
 
Seeing how I am not able to make it to plowday 12 this fall I decided to have my own plowday this weekend. I decided it was time to plow under the sweet corn plot that did not yeild a single stalk of corn after the deer completly wiped it out.
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after you get it all plowed under what is the next step, you might as well disk it flat.
41324.jpg

Make sure to use enough weight on the disk
41325.jpg

I think I had just the right amount of weight.
41326.jpg

Finished look.
 
well i got the thrower fixed YES!!!
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It turned out to be that the u joints weren't aligned and thats what made it knock. Now its smoother than ever ! THanks again steve for the u joint info and charlie for pics
 
My 70 is missing it's key switch (toggle switch in its place). The wiring diagram for it shows only a two terminal switch. I was told that I need a 3-terminal switch. Can anyone tell me the correct switch(as it left the factory)I need or the correct part # for it. Cub Cadet website list 2 different ones.
Thanks..Joe
 
Charlie: Thanks! But doing projects for 1 wife is enough!
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Kraig: Thanks! I can't wait until both projects are completely done
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Tonight we layed up the 2nd course of rocks. If the weather cooperates tomorrow, I should be done mortaring the field rocks into the actual fire ring.....hope.hope.hope
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I still need to get paint on the 50A deck I patched/repaired/added front wheels to, this summer....let alone finish the 122 that has been under restoration for 3 or 4 years now
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