Archive through September 22, 2018

[hydroharry]

Digger and Keith S - well I'm late to the party here. I don't know if Keith jumped in fully yet or not - but I've got a couple things to swear.

Keith - 1st off, I don't think anyone mentioned Charlie's FAQs. To get to them look at the top of this page for the Forum FAQs and click on that (they are purple colored). Once you're on the Forum FAQ page you'll see the top section mention Charlie's FAQs. There is a link (purple colored) that will take you there as well. Charlie's FAQ No. 94 tells you the details about replacing the infamous cork gasket. Here's a direct link. http://cubfaq.com/corkgasket.html and I must give credit to Gerry Ide for providing the write up, the pics and all the info.

Now, Charlie mentions Gerry's No. 94 method is the hard way. Here I go again, but I'm gonna disagree with Charlie. I will say it will be the most time consuming but overall it's probably the easiest and will result in less banged up knuckles.

Charlie's method of not splitting the rearend, but just removing the fenders and the other items in the way, then removing the pump is probably 2nd easiest. It's harder to do cause you have the frame in the way but it can be done - just as Charlie said.

And here is THE HARDEST method and where I'm gonna swear - I SWEAR I've replaced the gasket withOUT removing the fenders. It's been along time but I swear all I did was remove the center frame cover, disconnect the drive shaft, disconnect the linkages, disconnect the hydro by-pass tube, disconnect that dang brake return spring, and then remove the 4 bolts holding the pump in place (4 bolts around the outside) and slide the pump off enough to remove the gasket and install a new gasket. I'm pretty certain the pump doesn't come completely out - or at least I didn't take the pump out (but maybe I could have). All I did is remove it enough to get the gasket off and put the new one on. (Maybe someone will SWEAR back at me and tell me no way I did this - but as far as I can remember I did it a few times this way BECAUSE removing the fender footrest screws is usually the biggest PITA there is).

Keith - you also asked about using a jack under the tranny. You can do that but that makes it sound like you are going to roll the frame frontward away from the rearend. The easier method is to keep your jackstands under the frame and then roll the rearend backward from the frame. Here's where you really needed the manual. It shows and tells you to use a BIG ole crescent wrench on the draw bar on the back of the rearend, and use the wrench to put upward pressure on the rearend while you roll it backward. YOu are gonna need to have a block of wood handy to put under the front of the rearend once you have it split from the tractor.

And that's it for me. My 2 and 1/2 cents. And remember, just like Charlie has posted at the top of the page "There's NO such thing as a stupid question!"

 

[wshytle]

Marty-

I'm right here!!! I had the crew (cubs) out yesterday and we worked extra hard to get things done before the rains come so off to bed early I went . Email sent.

To any and all-

I have a situation here with Bull, the 108/128. I can't get the darn carb adjusted just right and I'm beginning to think it's something else. The engine is freshly rebuilt and has been running fine for a year or so but I have never been able to get a "hunt" out of the carb. The carb is sucking a little air but I have several doing that and none of them have this problem and all respond to tuning. I did clean the carb yet again and found some very fine rust particles in the bowl. I guess I need to address the tank eventually. This tractor only has the standard screen in the tank and no inline. Does this sound like the governor could be involved? The spring is in the second hole up on the throttle cable lever and the third hole up on the governor. I adjusted the governor when I put the engine back together.

Any help/ideas would be appreciated.

.

 

[wshytle]

Hydro-

I posted answering Marty before I read your "rebuttal".

First, I don't see how anyone could remove the pump (as you describe with the seat pan in place and tunnel cover removed), NOT take the pump out completely, and replace the cork gasket. Did you hold the pump in one hand and do the gasket work with the other? Splain that one Lucy.

And second, I agree with you rather than Charlie for a couple of reasons. With the frame out of the way one can address any slop in the trunion arm or the cam plates with a lot easier access to the snap rings. I realize this can be done once the pump/linkages have been removed but I like to tackle one thing at a time and remove slop with the pump installed...it's just easier for me that way. Cleaning and greasing is easier as well. Here's my second question. If you put the frame on jack stands in order to roll the rear end out backwards how do you support the front, or pump with the rear end?

Just curios and good to see you posting again. Did you get the 169 back together with the crank balance or am I way behind again?

BTW, in the video Charlie posted I did like the way those guys stood the rear end up to replace the gasket. It looked a little easier than the way I've always done it horizontally. Call me crazy.

.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, if I'm understanding your question to Harry, when you roll the rear end out you use an adjustable wrench or if you you have one, a "Crescent" brand wrench, on the drawbar as a lever to hold the rear end level. Works great. Here's a photo from the 1x2/3 Service Manual. The other model manuals also mention it but this manual has the best photo.

 

[jeaston]

I just did this last week on my 1650 project tractor. In the end splitting the tractor was the easiest for me, and I had to do it twice since I was swapping out the rear axle case as well due to the PO busting out the lower casting bolt holes by using bolts that were too long.
I used a jack strapped to the axle to keep from dropping the hydro on its "nose".

The Split
The Rear End
The Gasket

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Kraig-

I guess I had a bout of CRS and remembered Hydro saying something to that affect. I was thinking the rear wheels were removed and a floor jack was being used to roll the rear end free leaving the front suspect. I do it with the wheels removed and the rear end up on jack stands with the wood block under the pump.

Which ever way it's done it is a pita to me, especially when dealing with that long brake return spring on the left side (again which Hydro mentioned). The linkages are a piece of cake...usually.

.

 

[dschwandt]

Jeff,
The last one I did, the gasket looked just like the one you pictured.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's Jeff's photos so they don't disappear:

THE SPLIT:

THE REAR END:

THE GASKET:

 

[wshytle]

Jeff-

That's a good idea using the strap to keep the pump from tilting forward and maybe hitting the floor.

I've split several and never thought of attaching the rear end to the jack. I've always used a wood block with wedges to keep it where it needed to be upon reassembly of the frame. I also jacked the tractor up, placed jack stands under both rear axles, then put the block under the pump. I work alone (most of the time) so it is always slow and tedious.

BTW to everyone, never try a homemade gasket in this application. I actually tried a neoprene gasket I made and it gave me the chance to do it all over again. I thought it would be a more durable gasket and boy was I wrong. I guess cork is/was used for a very good reason that I happen to find out the hard way.

That gasket pictured was a little worn wouldn't you say???

.

 

[hydroharry]

Boy do I like seeing all these posts.

Wayne - when I start swearing, it's just an indication of "best I can recall" So, what happens to the pump since I don't have 3 hands to hold things and work at the same time. Well, you really don't need much space to remove and replace the gasket. I seem to recall just letting the pump sit in there on it's own (no hands). So there - is that nuff x-planation for Lucy?

Replacing the gasket is all you can do - no inspection of the trunion, no checking the buttons and springs, no checking the linkage, etc.

So I'm waiting for someone to try my method and see if they can actually do it.

Another thing I was kinda wondering about is the correct way to install the gasket. I use the same method as Gerry in his step by step FAQ No. 94. I install the sticky side of the gasket on the pump. The guys in the video that Charlie posted installed the gasket on the tranny housing. I don't like that. The pump has the little tits so the gasket gets aligned well. To me, if you install it on the tranny housing it could get bumped and miss-aligned when you initially set the pump onto the tranny before the tits are fully in place.

So lets hear it from Cub Cadet Land out there. Do you install the gasket on the pump or on the tranny?

Hey Wayne - I almost forgot about your "Bull" hunting. I'd re-check your setting of the Governor, the part where you tighten that 7/16" nut and bolt on the governor shaft to the throttle. It might have slipped slightly when you were tightening it.

Ooh, couple more things. The gasket isn't cork anymore. Gerry says it's a composition material. Someone else called it Neoprene or something. It still has a sorta cork look but it ain't the same. Also, Gerry gets the credit for using the jack-strap. If you look thru FAQ 94 dated 2010 (yup 8 years ago) you'll see him mention it and a photo as well. And by the way, it doesn't work on fe-male tractors.