Archive through September 21, 2016

[digger]

Allan K.
Depends on which deck you have.
Got a picture or serial/model number, anything?

 

[dwales]

Thanks for the mention Jason, but as you say it's the depth of knowledge around here that gets the credit. I read that method here a few years ago, recollections say it was KentuckKen where I read it. And yes, time and penetratent are a great things. I sprayed and left the gear puller under tension overnight once and found the puller on the floor and the wheel loose the next morning.

 

[eford]

John, that's a perfect pairing! Same series!

 

[jlord]

Hi all!,
I'm in the process of replacing all the rotted hoses of the "Johnson Workhorse 14" that's mounted on my '76 1650 Cub Cadet.
I have a couple of questions that you all may have the answers to.

Question #1 - In the manual for the Johnson, it says to use #40 weight SD motor oil for the hydraulic system (10-40 weight if it's below 32 deg. F). Do you all think that's correct? Would it be better to use a hydraulic fluid that had the same viscosity as 40 weight? Pro's? Con's?
When I changed hoses, the fluid that came out was RED. It appears to be automatic transmission fluid, but I can't be sure. Could I continue using it and just "top-up" what I've lost during the hose replacement? (Although I don't know if it's "Mercon II/III" or some other type, there could be compatibility issues.)

Question #2 - Is there anything special I need to do to get all the air out of the lines and ram cylinders or will it be purged out by just running the boom and bucket through a bunch of up/down & dump/scoop cycles?

These may seem like pretty basic questions to you all, but you've got a combined expertise of like a thousand years experience compared to my 60+ years on the planet.

Thanks in advance for all your input!
Jim

 

[digger]

Jim L.
If it were mine, I'd drain everything red out of that thing and replace it with Hytran or any other good hydraulic fluid before I did anything!
You just never know what some goof before you put in there, LOL

The ONLY good thing about straight oil is, the system will be a lot less likely to leak, but it's also harder on the pump to push stiff oil than true hydraulic oil.
But since your in California, stiff really isn't an issue, but hydraulic fluid is better in the long run.

As far as air removal, Johnson and Kwik-Way loaders are self bleeding, since they are what they call open systems.

That's my story and I'm stickin to it!

 

[sblunier]

Jim L.

Charlie is 100% correct, don't use 40wt. oil for sure!!

Quality hydraulic oil like Hy-Tran or a similar product would be the best solution.

That said, many manufacturers allowed the use of Type F transmission fluid in loaders and even hydrostatic transmissions (John Deere was type F on all of their hydros for a long time)......so red transmission fluid isn't the worst thing to have in it.........but quality hyd. oil is your best bet!

Since the current fluid is unknown, change it to a known commodity! Look for something that meets specs for CIH Hytran Ultra and all will be well.

 

[aknepel]

I can not figure out how to shrink my photos to give a pic of my deck. It's a 44" off my 1980-83 red 1282 the deck has the full cover over the pulleys. My guess would be the IH decal would go on that cover somewhere, if one even came on there. Any ideas?}

 

[digger]

 

[digger]

Oh yea,
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/PicturePosting.htm

 

[aknepel]

Very good thank you!!

 

[kide]

I generally go by what the mfr. recommends ... My Sc*g ZTR calls for 20-50 Detergent oil. On their web site there is a FAQ about it, the main thing I got from their faq is that they specify what the pump/motor mfr. recommends, but if you have high heat from too small/no oil cooler or a small reservoir like some of the other manufacturers, use a hydraulic fluid like Hytran.

 

[masmith]

I have a nice running 1963 Original that was purchased with the fenders, lights, mower deck, blade, and #1 cart. The owners manuel was filled in with all the info except the price. All are in great shape.

My only issue is with the lights. The switch was stuck and would not pull out. I took it off the tractor and cleaned it up getting it to pull in an out. If the tractor is running and the switch is pulled out it shuts off the tractor. The lights never come on. Is this as simple as a bad switch or is could there be another issue.

 

[eford]

Well I did find that the governor shaft bushing un-threaded from block on 1200. Probably what has caused the engine to race. Looks like I'm definitely opening it up now

 

[eford]

Mike S. I do think your switch is bad, might be grounding out.

 

[lhinds]

Mike S With wires removed from switch you can check with ohm meter and tell if switch is bad.

 

[jwiggins]

"Ultra Quick Clamp"

Fitters generally always work in pairs, you 2 guys work on this, you 2 work on that, you 2 come w/ me,,,,, Well we got a new load of tools in,, fancy new beveler, no more grinding which is good, I guess!!! Also some ultra quick clamps. Boss man told my partner to start putting up hangers and then he just handed me this clamp and said get to it,,,,, Apparently the old saying, "ok gimme one on top" may be a thing of the past!!! The old cast iron and chain "jewel clamps" that have been around forever never were very accurate, these newer style clamps are pretty slick,,,
hey Panther, no wise cracks!

 

[sblunier]

We have replaced many of our older small Dearman clamps with that style....very easy and fast.

Still use the Dearman style for big elbows (need the chain out to the other end to support the weight)

The beveling machine is a great addition too! Our biggest goes from 24" to 30" with blocks (interrupted gear type).....awesome tools.

Congrats on your upgrade!!!!

 

[ajtimm]

Anyone have any experience with the vintage Cub Cadet Sweepers? Do they work well? How about on broken leaves already mowed?
Was there a sweeper that worked off the narrow frame rear PTO?

Steve, went to the hardware store today and bought a 5/8 bolt and nut.. will try this weekend. Not often you get to use a HAMMER to fix something!

Jason, thanks for the pics of the clamp method. Never would have thought of that.

 

[sblunier]

Cub cadet sweepers were made by Parker....probably have better luck searthing for comments on them....

 

[digger]

Since it's still OTF, I feel the need to post this here!