Archive through September 20, 2004

[sblunier]

Rob,

Tighten up the friction adjustment on the SR lever. Hydros naturally want to accellerate from part to wide open if the friction built into the lever does not hold them back. The friction adjustment on my 129 (149) likes to "back-off" and before mowing the other night I had to tighten it up some so that letting go of the SR lever didn't result in an "8-Second" ride!!!!

 

[ofletcher]

I have found a complete hydro rear for my 147 but it is out of a 125 will it fit? Be as strong? Look as good? Thanks for all the help. Thanks. Owen.

 

[sblunier]

Owen,

Same-Same

 

[kmorrow]

"Assembly is the reverse of disassembly"... works pretty good -IF- you are the guy who took it apart in the first place. When I bought my 1450, it was apart and the engine was just sitting in the chassis, not bolted down. I didn't get quite all the parts that went with it, and very little of the hardware needed to put it together. Since I had very little experience with and knowledge of the Quietline series, I had a helluva time getting it put together, took me quite a while, but I finally got it running. Now I need to tear it back down and overhaul it - but I wanted to make sure I could get it assembled before I made a major investment in repairing it.

 

[jbliler]

We have a runner! It all ironed out with a bit of ajustment to the carb and we are happy. Will spend a while finding what all has been a pain for the last few years.
Will have to get a price for the rework on this 149 but I still think i got a deal.

 

[rchristensen]

Don't forget the easiest way to find out how to reassemble a cub. Buy an identical model Cub that is assembled, and use it for a pattern.

 

[bmcmeen]

Jeff E. -

There was up to 300# in the sled IIRC - everything worked just like full size.

 

[digger]

Bryan,
Looks like they coulda wet that track down a little too, LOL

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve B., Owen, except the 125 has an internal brake and the 147 has external brakes. There are also some differences in the hydro linkage assembly.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here are the hydro control assembly drawings for the 125 and the 147, note part # 7 in each, this part is bolted to the hydro housing.

Above is the drawing for the 125.

Above is the drawing for the 147.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob D., the tension needs to be adjusted tighter on your 127. Here's how the manuals says to do it.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig, Owen,

The brakes still connect to the acuating arm the same way, disk or internal, and the hydro linkage stays with the tractor, not the rear end (part 7 is left in the tractor and does not get changed over).......it should be a bolt in swap, but you may (as Kraig noted) have a different style of brakes.



(Message edited by sblunier on September 21, 2004)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, I just wanted to make sure Owen didn't freak out when he saw they were different. To clarify for Owen, part #7 is mounted to the hydro and would have to move to the hydro that will be remounted into the tractor. Here are two views of part#7 on a 127 (same as a 147)

Owen also FWIW, many consider the internal brake better than the external brakes.

 

[rmull]

Kraig- You have the pic of how the measure a plow bottom handy?

Bryan- You have plans to open up new Plow Day topic?

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

The "accepted" removal method for part #7 is to pull the 2 bolts that hold it to the hydro and "fold it over" still attached to the linkage.......keeping it with the tractor and saving trying to undo all the linkage parts that "should be" pre-adjusted.

The only adjustment after that is at the 2 bolts you removed for part #7 anyway.

Ryan,

 

[digger]

Did someone mention Plow Day!
CLICK HERE for Fall Plow Day Info!

 

[bmcmeen]

Ryan -

You working for SB or something? I already have his request in my inbox.

 

[rmull]

Muh-ha-ha...

 

[rmull]

 

[dmcnair]

K301 engine rebuild problem. I found the source of the knock in the engine after pulling it from the tractor and removing the oil pan. The connecting rod has play in it at the crank jounal. It is tight at TDC and BDC, but noticeably loose mid way through the stroke when crank is turned either direction. At this point I don't know if the problem is the crank journal, rod bore, or a combination of both. I will remove the crank and piston/rod assembly and re-mic all parts paying particular attention to out of round measurements. Is it common to find this type of wear on either part? I am still learning and need some guidance.
David in Dayton, TX