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Archive through September 19, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Good morning everyone.Would someone tell me if a creeper drive and drive shaft/clutch assembly out of a 122 fit into a 1000 model.The clutch in my 1000 is worn out and I would like to have the creeper drive as well.The center cover does have the slot for the lever.Big thanks-Keith W.
 
Marty, I have a 104 that is about 3/4 finished and I also want to rush it! I found that buying other cubs delays that urge for a short time! I started out with an inherited 106 that is in good shape, then added the 104 which was given to me, then a 1650, and now a 123 which runs but needs work. It drives my wife mad, but at least she knows what I'm up to! I dont think anyone on here who has done any restoration jobs hasnt had the urge to rush the project. I know for me time and funds keep me from rushing things so that is basically the only thing that keeps it chugging along at a snails pace! Good luck with your project, and remember "slow and steady wins the race"!!
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Kieth, Yes it will bolt up to the tranny, the difference is the handle, the wide frames-quiet lines had extensions on the handles and, I've read a slightly different shape.
 
Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) There is nothing wrong with the 20" flat screen monitor I have, I did not know that the 128 and 129 BOTH had the RED stripes. I was thinking that they were different.
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Don T.-

Yep.. 86 = orange stripe, 108/9 = green stripe, 128/9 = red stripe, and 149/169 = blue stripe.
 
Oops - just noticed that I said my carb is from a K341. Of course it's a K321 on the 147. Either way, it needs help.

The FAQ has a repair that uses a multi-layer washer. Are those washers widely available? Does that washer just sit in the recess on top the bushing? Does the worn bushing come out? Does it have to be drilled out?
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Or will I be better off going to the Wanted thread for a good used carb?
 
Greg, It's the weekend, I know theres help for you out there. The guys that had the sense to save the information will be back, mabey tomorrow. I think the "30" indicates mm's of the blade (carburator size). The screws twisted off mabey because you have to file the back side down to the shaft to get them off. They are peened to make sure they don't back off and go in the engine. Years ago I twisted a pair off and went to the hardware store and found a small tap with the right drill and machine screws. Go slow it can be done with a hand drill and tools. I peened the new screws, there still there 8 or 10 years later. Anouther thing you can look at while your waiting for better information is at the top of the forum right under the sponsors is the FAQ page on that page (right under the the headline) is Charleys FAQ's number 6 there gives some more info. good luck.
 
Well i got my Cub Original home last night. Its gonna need alot of work. In time maybe it will look like new again. Thought i would show a few pic's of it and also my 1450. The old choremaster got in the pic of the 1450. The JD in the background is the wife's.
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I'm back from the Arcadia Steam Show, had a good time putting around and meeting some like minded people, Plenty of Cubs, Farmalls, Deeres, and the like, not to mention all sorts of demonstrations and flea markets to browse. To save bandwidth on the server, I have created a Flickr page. Here is the link for anyone that is interested.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52332338@N00/3937632309/
 
Rob Neubauer, Is the Craftsman model Number etc on the sleeve hitch blade or is it idenfied by the Brinley model Number
 
Cletus,
Nice original! Thats whats great about the old little cadets. They were built to last for generations, by International, not the crap Home Depot MTD specials which are complete pieces of junk. I am a proud owner of 3 cadets, a 1967 124, the very rare 1966 123 Hydro, and i have an original too! They all sat untouched in my uncle's barn for 13 years, and the motors weren't even stuck when i got them 2 months ago. Cant kill the old cast iron Kohlers. That original you got is in fairly decent shape. She'll run, it's just a matter of time. Nice tractor!
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tim... not to burst your bubble but im pretty sure 123s arnt all that rare... i persnoally know several people with them.. one guy with 3 in his collection... but im sure someone will tear this appart!
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Matt, I sure can't find any of them close to me.....

that I can afford at the time its for sale anyway.
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Greg

The 30mm is the bore or butterfly diameter, not sure which way it is specified, but that's the size regardless. On the bushing for the top, I have done several, and one on a "green one" with a Kohler K321 as well, none of the ones I done had bushings, so I just taped one right in. It's very easy, and a great bang for the buck project!! I would suggest you go with a bronze bushing, your just looking at a couple dollars ($2-$5 ?) and it will last for a long time. Here is a wealth of info on this site http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1carb.htm I posted to the carb part of it, but the site is full of great information from one end of the cub to the other.
 
Cletus, do the foot rests on your "new" Original have holes in them or are they smooth? It's hard to tell from your photo but they look smooth.... Also could you post a photo of the front axle and front spindles?

Greg, you should be able to rebuild that carb. You'll just need a throttle and choke shaft kit and a bushing to put in that recess in the top of the carb body. The bushing should be available at a good hardware store that has those hilman (SP) hardware drawers. I don't recall the part number, perhaps Myron does, I believe he was the one that first posted that fix. A drill press should work fine for any drilling out of the carb body for the new shafts. However, I don't recall if you need to do any drilling on the carb or not.
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Under edit: I see Clint types faster than I do...
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Tim, Not to beat a dead horse or anything but a buddy just got a 123 for 60 some dollars off e-pay minus the engine.
 
My clutch accidently ate the rest of the Cubs wiring harness this summer
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. I think I just justified a new wiring harness to go with the Cubs new generator and regulator. Maybe then I could get some consistant battery life at plow day.
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Brian....
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...Not that I think that's funny or anything. Well...ok I do, only because 3 weeks after I made a new harness with new wire and abrasion resistant sleeving for my 73 the driveshaft sucked it in. It was wrapped up tight, took a good 20min laying in the snow in the middle of the driveway at 10PM to get it pulled out so I could at least get to the cave
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