Archive through September 17, 2013

[KevinX]

Stay tuned for important info about what's going to be happening in the next week or so on and to the forum.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[mmasheris]

Are we going to have the NSA with us

 

[kshultz]

I hope it's good news!

 

[bjamison]

Timing is strangely similar to the latest iPhone and iOS7 software.

Could it be...

iH Cub Cadet Forum????????

 

[fcurrier]

 

[dtanner]

 

[kostendorf]

This is starting to hurt...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill,

 

[jbaker]

Kraig we need group seating

 

[bbranstetter]

I'm not smart phone crazy but I would live with an app if it came out.

Any ways. Had an epiphany this afternoon, what if I plumbed my oil lines in reverse? Duh, If Cub filters have check valves in them, this is why I heard a squeak in the motor after it ran for a few minutes. Boy I'm I dumb.....

Man I hope I didn't smoke a new motor

 

[mfrade]

Harry said , Mike F - geez, funny how that stuff shows up again. Wasn't clear to me if you got a Windbreaker or not. Hope so, and that you plan to keep it mounted on the unit. I think that's really the best way to keep them from cracking up. And if you happen upon Bill again tell him I said hi as well. Was that rebuilt engine he showed you a 12hp? I'm trying to recall what I had then - really surprised myself with what I had accumulated and forgotten.

Yes Harry, I actually got 2! And it sounded like some parts or at least 1 came from you! 1 is for a wide frame and the other for a narrow! And I have both of those so I'm happy! They need some repairs, windshields and side windows mostly!!

The engine that was rebuilt was either a 12 or 14 HP and is now in his 128 (148?) and he says you and Kenny rebuilt it at Jim Chabot's and pics were here on this forum during the rebuild!

I kept his phone number and have to call him in 6 to 8 months as he will be moving out some mower decks, again some of your cast offs apparently LOL.. and I'm searching for a decent deck for the 169 close to home.

 

[bjamison]

Jeff B, David S, Don T & Harry B - thanks for the pics and tips!

1650 Update: Still no spark. I changed out one good coil for another good coil - no change - no spark.

How are the points grounded - to the block or do they need their own ground strap? I would think that now that I have a ground strap - which allows me to get a great crank on the engine, the engine would be suitably grounded and I would think the points would be grounded to the block. Also checked the spark plug wire - good and changed plugs. This sucker IMHO is ready to start, just something silly going on here. If I keep the pace, I ought to have this tractor running by the time grass grows next year...

 

[dschwandt]

Bill, Take the point cover off and make sure you have juice to the points. If so, your problem has got to be the points. Either bad or no contact between them, bad connection on the wire terminal, mis adjusted points (not fully closing, or bad ground between the point body and the block. If you have juice at the coil and not at the points you either have a broken wire to them or bad connectors at either end of the wire. I have seen crimps so tight on terminals that the strands of wire are cut but the insulation still intact.

Dave S.

 

[aaytay]

Does anybody know of a source for decals for an Original BB-36 snow-thrower?

Thanks

 

[bjamison]

Went out tonight with flashlight in hand and took off the points cover. I don't think the points are opening at all.

Note to self - paint timing marks on flywheel when engine is out of tractor and tins are off...

Those timing marks are really really hard to find!

 

[ccarney]

Art -

I do have a nice chain cover with the correct "International-Danco" side decal that is intact if you knew someone who could scan it in and reproduce...

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I BET you just found the reason why you have no spark! Next thing I expect to hear is yo have it running.

 

[bjamison]

Dennis F - first things first, I've got to find those @#$%^! timing marks on an otherwise dirty flywheel...

 

[kide]

Bill -- crank it over and drag an old screwdriver or chisel on the surface... it'll knock the crud off, but leave the stamped timing marks visible.. when you get it running do a good scrape job and then paint the Fire and TDC marks with white paint. You actually should be able to get it running by just gapping the points about 20 thosandths....