Archive through September 17, 2004

[jpatchett]

Tim G. Red hot wires

Usally wires get red hot when the source is directly shorted to ground. Looking at the drawing Kraig posted, I would check for a chaffed wire(s) starting at the starter switch to the Volt regulator then to the ignition switch and then to the coil. The ignition switch could be the culprit, if it is grounding the current to frame through the case. Isolateing it from the frame would check this. If you have a volt/multimeter with ohms/continuty check this will help in hunting down chaffted wires. If the "burning" wires are the same color as in the drawing then which ones are red hot? This will help point to the problem. It is also possible the coil or volt regulator are damaged.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dean, that light switch knob should be made from aluminum.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I wish I had a better photo of the light switch knob, I'll have to remember to take one this weekend. Here's a good photo of just the switch.

 

[ebailey]

A big thanks goes out to Steve, Richard, Dennis & Dave for all the pointers on my K301 head gasket issue.

I knew I could count on you guys here on the CC forum! She's runnin like a top once again!

Eric

 

[till]

Time for a new Cub hauler.

 

[pbell]

Tim G.
The push button starter switch on an Original is not/should not be, connected to the ignition switch, except through the voltage regulator. The battery + connects to one side of the start switch along with a lead to the BATT terminal of the VR. The other side of the start switch connects to the Armature(sp)on the starter generator. If the VR is shorted, it could possibly cause the wire to the ignition to get hot.

 

["the apostle"....with 2 new trike motors, and stil]

Matt S......here's my plow tips: I run 2 IH wheel wts on the furrow wheel and 4 IH wts on the land wheel ALONG WITH both tires filled with fluid on my 782. I use 11 or 12 of the midwest super cub 10lb frt weights and adjust the the number of them kept on the rack according to field conditions.

In tough, hard pull soil, all the front weights stay on. In lighter soils I shed them to gain more ground speed for faster soil rolling action on the plow.

Rear duals are for looks only. They are much more of a hindrance than help. IF your plow is properly set and the tractor is weighted right, you won't feel like field plowing is "work" at all AND....it won't tear up your tractor.

You can lower the tire psi to get sidewall "crinkle" but that won't help you put the HP to the ground. Run both rear tires at the same psi.

When in doubt, STOP and check the plow adjustment!

****Bring EXTRA fuel with you and fill the tank before you start!! I hate having to plow around "dead" tractors...****

(Message edited by kupdike on September 17, 2004)

 

[dharmon]

My latest $50.00 investment.At the last minute the guy threw in a 8 hp Tecumsi (I think it's spelled right) he had laying around. Maby he thought he was giving me the shaft and felt bad. I think I did ok, and so long as I am happy that is all that matters, right.

I think it originally has a 7 hp but not sure. Serial # 73532.

 

[kduffy]

Hey all,

Im kinda new at the whole Cub thing still, and i wanted to come to plow days this fall, seeing as im not too far away. Ive got an original with 6-12 ags, I don't have the plow yet but will have it all setup in time for the big day, but i was wondering what kind of wheel weights are we talking here. Im not a small person to say the least (250+) so will i really need that many weights and if so how much. Also any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[aaytay]

Kevin-
The wheel weights we're talking about are 26lb donut-shaped <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> wheel weights. Usually some of the sponsors of this site (pretty boxes above) will have some for sale.
Here's a picture of fellow forum member Steve Blunier driving my Original at the 2003 WFM Spring Tillage Day.

This tractor's got one weight on the furrow side wheel and three weights on the "land" side wheel. (one on the inside of the land wheel, two on the outside of the land wheel) It also has 70lbs of Midwest Super Cub suitcase weights on a bracket I made for the front to keep it steerable.

At 250lbs, you and I are simillarily "blessed", and the tractor is balanced pretty well for me. The problem with any pan-seat style tractor is that you can't "hang a cheek" when the going gets tough unless you want to mash the fender against the rear tire, which isn't good. <font size="-2">That is if you have fenders...</font> As you can see here, Steve was about to mash this fender until I yelled at him. "Steve, get off the fender!"

(Message edited by aaytay on September 17, 2004)

 

[aaytay]

Oh, and the guy in the background hiding behind the camera is Kraig McConaughey <font size="-2">Hi Kraig!</font>

 

[wdeturck]

I have always plowed with an Original with duals, turf tires and chains. I had even done the trips at the last Blunier PD. I am told the trps were used with filled tires to get weight on the land side. I have a front weight bracket (35 lbs and 40 lbs og lead). I have odd ball 50 lb wights plus an IH weight in the furough and 3 IH weights anf 50 lb. weight on the duals. I have my oversized tires filled with fluid for an extra 35 lbs up front.

 

[thoffman]

Tedd,
NOW THAT'S one bad ass CUB <font size="-2">(or anything else for that matter)</font> hauler! Wish it was mine.

Considering the Ford/Navistar connection, it Kinda' looks like a Ford box on the back.

(Message edited by thoffman on September 18, 2004)

 

[digger]

Kevin D,
Like Art said, most guys side cheek it!

Even Art does it! Not a pretty picture but here it is anyway! grin

Then again, if you weight it right, you can just set there lookin like you half way know what your doin, LOL

 

[dmcnair]

Good morning,
I am having some difficulty setting the carburetor and timing on a fresh rebuild of a K301A in a model 124. At idle there is a knocking in the engine. possibly pre-ignition or late ignition timing. Off idle the knocking goes away and the engine revs up fine. If I adjust point gap/timing to get rid of the knock at idle, I am losing power at the top end. Starting point was point gap at .020, idle screw 1-1/2 turn off seat, fast speed screw 1-1/4 off seat. Any suggestions on what adjustments to make or things to check would be appreciated. This is my first attempt at Kohler engine/Walbro carb work so don't laugh to loudly at my questions or responses that show I am very new to this site and Cub Cadets.
David in Dayton, TX

 

[thoffman]

Dave "M",
I hate when that happens. 8-(

Did you rebuild the carb also?

 

[dmcnair]

Rebuilt the carb? Yes. Bought all the parts from a CC dealer. Everything was marked with Kohler p/n's. Everthing went together just fine with the aid of a Kohler and CC repair manual.
David

 

[tdelooza]

Dean,

 

[jmacdonald]

John Lang
John I saw your great photos you posted, and this message you added.

I had problems getting some photos small enough for the 50 KB limit, so posted a link to a couple I posted on SFM site. Wish you could have seen the ones I tried to upload here!

If you want to E-mail them to me I will reduce them and ship the back so you can post them.

jimmac