Don, granted, it's 4wd but the tires on this <font color="119911">thing</font> that my father bought before he passed away, work great in the snow. No weight, no chains never been stuck, yet anyway...
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Archive through September 15, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Yep they would take a bite , nice soft compound .The new drive is not going to ever have sealer.I have not a clew what is best to prevent the drive from getting slippery if sealed.
any thoughts. Tru powers are a soft compound and I think they with weight will be my first try. I have with tru powers pushed a blade of snow and had a ball till I bured the blade in a snow bank.ran 100 lbs each rear and the loader got it out lol.Chaines fixed the traction issue for sure. There is a by line somewhere that reads, all tractors must have wheel weights a true statement.
Yep they would take a bite , nice soft compound .The new drive is not going to ever have sealer.I have not a clew what is best to prevent the drive from getting slippery if sealed.
Don, yes my father was setting on it when that photo was taken. Here's a couple of him setting on it the day he bought it. I've been using it to mow the yard and clear the snow from the driveway for my mother ever since he passed away. In the top photo below if you look at the back ground you can see the 45" snow blower for it. Often when I'm clearing snow the front wheels will be off the ground effectively making it rear wheel drive only and with no weights and no chains it still has great traction with those tires on pavement and off.
BTW
And all for the off topic tractor photos.
And all for the off topic tractor photos.
DONALD - It's Art that has that byline.
SON tried to clean the driveway once with the Super H & loader without chains and just the 40" wide bucket. There was 4-5 inches of snow with a sheet of ice under it, it rained, then cooled off and changed to snow.
Without chains the Super H would not even attempt to climb the slope in our concrete drive. And the Super H has about 500# of calcium chloride solution per rear tire PLUS about 300# of cast iron weights per tire, something around 1600 pounds of added weight. The tires have good tread, similar to a Firestone 23 degree, but are DAYTON brand, made by Firestone in a size 12.4" x 38" 4-ply. I've never weighed the chains I have for this tractor but they must weigh at least 200# per chain, so add another 400#, so 2000# added weight just to push snow around. And I still slip & spin!
The Farmall M doesn't have fluid, never did, and used to have two pair of weights per rear wheel, about 300#/wheel with hardware. We have chains for it too, but we added THREE 150# weights per rear wheel, 900# total, and without the chains it's pretty helpless. And compared to CC weights, these weights were cheap, about $200 total including hardware! At today's prices that two pair, about 104# of CC weights.
I've never had both FARMALL's across a scale in their current configuration but I'd guess they both weigh within 500# of the same weight, between 7000 and 7500# each. I know the Super H used to weigh 5250# without the loader & chains and only one pair of weights. The M was on a trailer the last time I weighted it, minus the 900# of weights, and I have no idea what the trailer weight was.
It's funny, I add 1000# to 2000# to my snow moving tractors. That's like bolting one or TWO Cub Cadets to them! But My Buddy's ATV will still move more snow that either one of them, or even BOTH of them combines.
SON tried to clean the driveway once with the Super H & loader without chains and just the 40" wide bucket. There was 4-5 inches of snow with a sheet of ice under it, it rained, then cooled off and changed to snow.
Without chains the Super H would not even attempt to climb the slope in our concrete drive. And the Super H has about 500# of calcium chloride solution per rear tire PLUS about 300# of cast iron weights per tire, something around 1600 pounds of added weight. The tires have good tread, similar to a Firestone 23 degree, but are DAYTON brand, made by Firestone in a size 12.4" x 38" 4-ply. I've never weighed the chains I have for this tractor but they must weigh at least 200# per chain, so add another 400#, so 2000# added weight just to push snow around. And I still slip & spin!
The Farmall M doesn't have fluid, never did, and used to have two pair of weights per rear wheel, about 300#/wheel with hardware. We have chains for it too, but we added THREE 150# weights per rear wheel, 900# total, and without the chains it's pretty helpless. And compared to CC weights, these weights were cheap, about $200 total including hardware! At today's prices that two pair, about 104# of CC weights.
I've never had both FARMALL's across a scale in their current configuration but I'd guess they both weigh within 500# of the same weight, between 7000 and 7500# each. I know the Super H used to weigh 5250# without the loader & chains and only one pair of weights. The M was on a trailer the last time I weighted it, minus the 900# of weights, and I have no idea what the trailer weight was.
It's funny, I add 1000# to 2000# to my snow moving tractors. That's like bolting one or TWO Cub Cadets to them! But My Buddy's ATV will still move more snow that either one of them, or even BOTH of them combines.
KRAIG - Great pic's of your DAD and his new Deere.
To put things into "Perspective", Back after WW II people could buy whole FARMS for what that tractor, mower & snow blower cost.
A close friend & Neighbor of my DAD passed away last summer and his auction was about two months ago. He had an Off topic 317 and 400 model tractors. He ran the 400, His Wife ran the 317. One day She complained about HIS tractor having power steering, Her's didn't. Without saying a word, He shut his tractor off, got in his pickup and left. An hour later he came back in the yard followed by the pickup & trailer of his local Deere dealer with HER new 318 Deere with P/S. That 318 cost about what He paid for a brand new 4020 diesel back in about 1967. The 4020 was a better investment, it sold for about 70% of new price at his auction, the 318 about 40%.
To put things into "Perspective", Back after WW II people could buy whole FARMS for what that tractor, mower & snow blower cost.
A close friend & Neighbor of my DAD passed away last summer and his auction was about two months ago. He had an Off topic 317 and 400 model tractors. He ran the 400, His Wife ran the 317. One day She complained about HIS tractor having power steering, Her's didn't. Without saying a word, He shut his tractor off, got in his pickup and left. An hour later he came back in the yard followed by the pickup & trailer of his local Deere dealer with HER new 318 Deere with P/S. That 318 cost about what He paid for a brand new 4020 diesel back in about 1967. The 4020 was a better investment, it sold for about 70% of new price at his auction, the 318 about 40%.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Your a luky guy and a nice guy. You can tell your father loved his tractor ,for sure.I need info on rebuilding at 450 snow blower and used parts look up to get seals. I don`t have a clue what to add to the dif, syn maybe.I was offered $ 1200.00 for my 1995 Dodge ram diesel 5.9 12 V .I never have an issue selling what I have owned , and there were many cars and trucks. I bet your father had a great aperation for toys.I have always passed it on better than I will get.If I make it , I will have 10 tractors for someone to enjoy.
Your a luky guy and a nice guy. You can tell your father loved his tractor ,for sure.I need info on rebuilding at 450 snow blower and used parts look up to get seals. I don`t have a clue what to add to the dif, syn maybe.I was offered $ 1200.00 for my 1995 Dodge ram diesel 5.9 12 V .I never have an issue selling what I have owned , and there were many cars and trucks. I bet your father had a great aperation for toys.I have always passed it on better than I will get.If I make it , I will have 10 tractors for someone to enjoy.
snicklas
Well-known member
Hey Kraig,
Here is a 125 for you: http://gizmodo.com/5637686/a-jet+powered-lawn-tractor-to-rule-them-all
Here is a 125 for you: http://gizmodo.com/5637686/a-jet+powered-lawn-tractor-to-rule-them-all
Scott, nice!
DONALD T - Just saw your post on the last page. You want to use a throttle position sensor "TPS" and 12V to control your hydro on your loader tractor or your loader lift/lower/dump?
I just had a thought, (scary I know!) How about adding a couple switches to your hydro speed control lever to run your loader? I know they made add-on extra hyd. remote couplers so you can run two cylinders separately with one lever, just add the switch to the lever to control which cyl. is operated. I don't think that would work well for a loader since too many times you dump the bucket while raising the arms, or curl the bucket back while lowering. BUT, add two switches to the hydro lever, and use the switches to control elec. solenoid controlled valves. One hand on the steering wheel, the other on the hydro lever to control speed/direction AND the loader controls. Keeps both feet flat on the foot rests.
Company I worked for 20+ yrs ago had two CAT forklifts. Both has full hydrostatic transmissions with foot controls, toe down for forward, farther down was faster, heel down for reverse. Nice thing was even at max. governed engine RPM you could inch forward or back very slow with a LOT of power. But it took some getting used to. But they were great once you got good with them. You still had the "clutch", or dump valve control, same as clutch/brake pedal on a hydro CC. I think a person MUST keep that for safety, it's the PANIC PEDAL.
I just had a thought, (scary I know!) How about adding a couple switches to your hydro speed control lever to run your loader? I know they made add-on extra hyd. remote couplers so you can run two cylinders separately with one lever, just add the switch to the lever to control which cyl. is operated. I don't think that would work well for a loader since too many times you dump the bucket while raising the arms, or curl the bucket back while lowering. BUT, add two switches to the hydro lever, and use the switches to control elec. solenoid controlled valves. One hand on the steering wheel, the other on the hydro lever to control speed/direction AND the loader controls. Keeps both feet flat on the foot rests.
Company I worked for 20+ yrs ago had two CAT forklifts. Both has full hydrostatic transmissions with foot controls, toe down for forward, farther down was faster, heel down for reverse. Nice thing was even at max. governed engine RPM you could inch forward or back very slow with a LOT of power. But it took some getting used to. But they were great once you got good with them. You still had the "clutch", or dump valve control, same as clutch/brake pedal on a hydro CC. I think a person MUST keep that for safety, it's the PANIC PEDAL.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Kraig M. It's interesting when I read the Hydro #2 that you posted now that I've learned a little more about the characteristics of the 15U Series. When he states that setting charge pressure down to 90 is an option is okay what in essence you are truly doing is to a degree bringing forth the same characteristic as a worn charge pump would show. The purpose of the charge pump is to push oil to the main pump or in the case of a ported pump to also supply fluid to remote hydraulics. It has always been hard to find true neutral on the 15U series and if you look at the higher end Cub Cadets with the 21U series with the added on neutral adjustment feature you will see one solution to finding and setting true neutral. This same option is available for the 15Us. The design of the 15U is so simple that some leakage will always be a possibility. It isn't a high end pump that requires a very tight system. What McGiver suggests is a tedious and not always successful way to try and set neutral so that no oil is flowing through the system. I would never attempt it and don't really recommend it. I explained this setup to a gentleman with 35+ years experience building the 15Us and he agreed with me. It is best to do as McGiver originally suggested.... "to learn to live with it" and not try and do all these little fancy adjustments.
I'm not trying to raise anyone's ire or start a big commotion. I'm just basing things on my learnings from those that actually have built the 15U and helped engineer them.
Off to bed. I'm still not quite over the flu bug and work beckons in the morning.
I'm not trying to raise anyone's ire or start a big commotion. I'm just basing things on my learnings from those that actually have built the 15U and helped engineer them.
Off to bed. I'm still not quite over the flu bug and work beckons in the morning.
Dennis Frisk
(You want to use a throttle position sensor "TPS" and 12V to control your hydro on your loader tractor) I do think an electric actuator or a 12volt window winder motor
could be used to run the hydro control so I could have an accurate foot control for forward and reverse. Cars run by wire now so why not a Cub Cadet loader?
(You want to use a throttle position sensor "TPS" and 12V to control your hydro on your loader tractor) I do think an electric actuator or a 12volt window winder motor
could be used to run the hydro control so I could have an accurate foot control for forward and reverse. Cars run by wire now so why not a Cub Cadet loader?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
What's wrong with mechanical linkage? I've had dozens of hydro Cub Cadets, all 20-40+ years old, and I have never had any parts of the hydro linkage in any of those machines break. In my 1998 car, 3 of the 4 window motors and the rear windshield wiper quit. Those motors probably won't last very long in constant use, and you could find yourself in a very dangerous situation if the motor decides to quit while the tractor is not in neutral. There's also no speed between off and on, so I image it'd be very jerky unless you added a PWM controller or something in there, and that's another thing that can fail. I think it would be much easier to make an 'accurate' (and reliable) foot control with mechanical linkage. I think you're trying to re-invent the wheel again.
What's wrong with mechanical linkage? I've had dozens of hydro Cub Cadets, all 20-40+ years old, and I have never had any parts of the hydro linkage in any of those machines break. In my 1998 car, 3 of the 4 window motors and the rear windshield wiper quit. Those motors probably won't last very long in constant use, and you could find yourself in a very dangerous situation if the motor decides to quit while the tractor is not in neutral. There's also no speed between off and on, so I image it'd be very jerky unless you added a PWM controller or something in there, and that's another thing that can fail. I think it would be much easier to make an 'accurate' (and reliable) foot control with mechanical linkage. I think you're trying to re-invent the wheel again.
Matt Gonitzke
(I think you're trying to re-invent the wheel again).Waite now Cars have run by wire for a few years now and still have control, (correct).So the teck is there to adapt to what you need or want if you need to.The Wheel has never stopped being reinvented
.Some told me a CV drive shaft in a tractor would not work, but I does and works great.I will never stop looking and thinking of ways to improve what I need to do. I could use a spare hand on the 129 loader. foot control of the hydro would be a plus.
(I think you're trying to re-invent the wheel again).Waite now Cars have run by wire for a few years now and still have control, (correct).So the teck is there to adapt to what you need or want if you need to.The Wheel has never stopped being reinvented
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
You missed my point. I'm not disagreeing with the benefits of a foot control hydro on a loader...my 682 needs that, too. It's just that the best solution is not necessarily the most hi-tech, complicated one. I don't think I put enough emphasis on safety, either. You DO NOT want this to fail. The more complexity you add to this, the more likely it is that it will fail. This is particularly true with electronics. Cars may be drive-by-wire, but I'd rather have a physical connection between me and the car's controls. Some aircraft have been fly-by-wire for decades now, but there is a reason why all of those fly-by-wire-type systems must be constructed to have a 1 in 1 billion failure rate to be certified by the FAA...
Your CV joint driveshaft was a good, practical adaptation of newer CC parts to an older machine...this is nothing like that at all.
You missed my point. I'm not disagreeing with the benefits of a foot control hydro on a loader...my 682 needs that, too. It's just that the best solution is not necessarily the most hi-tech, complicated one. I don't think I put enough emphasis on safety, either. You DO NOT want this to fail. The more complexity you add to this, the more likely it is that it will fail. This is particularly true with electronics. Cars may be drive-by-wire, but I'd rather have a physical connection between me and the car's controls. Some aircraft have been fly-by-wire for decades now, but there is a reason why all of those fly-by-wire-type systems must be constructed to have a 1 in 1 billion failure rate to be certified by the FAA...
Your CV joint driveshaft was a good, practical adaptation of newer CC parts to an older machine...this is nothing like that at all.
I started cleaning up the 73 for the wife. Hopefully she likes driving it. She'll only need to drive a a couple of times a year. It hasnt been run in several years. The axle seals were leaking so I replaced them tonight. I put the stock seat on tonight as well, just not in the pictures. Tomorrow I'll drag it to the car was to remove 50 years of grime.
I also took a few extra shots of the garage.
I also took a few extra shots of the garage.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Marlin-
Can you tell us (or maybe just me) more info about the 21U series hydro? What CC tractors were they used in? Are they interchangeable with the 15U hydro pump on our older machines?
Kraig-
Great pics of your dad and his machine.
Terry-
It looks like your loader is missing an arm. You might want to check into that...
Can you tell us (or maybe just me) more info about the 21U series hydro? What CC tractors were they used in? Are they interchangeable with the 15U hydro pump on our older machines?
Kraig-
Great pics of your dad and his machine.
Terry-
It looks like your loader is missing an arm. You might want to check into that...
