Archive through September 13, 2018

[dfrisk]

I think Charlie is right. In five years you will NOT recognize MTD or Cub Cadet. These old IH Cub Cadets are legendary for their durability, but Everything for them will go NLA, Things for models from '81 till about 2000 will disappear shortly there after. Everything they make will be Value Engineered, nice way of saying "Cheapened up to the point of being worthless.
Company I used to work for did Exactly what Stanley is doing. Great brands like DeVilbiss, Lincoln Automotive Tools, Century Electric, and several others disappeared. In fact, they sold Delta and Porter Cable to Black & Decker, the old Rockwell power tool line was in there too, some of the best power tools I ever owned. Now gone, at least I can still get parts for them for a while longer.
Order your repair & rebuild parts from Charlie while you still can. He holds a Boat Load of Clout with MTD, but those days are numbered.

Dang! Why couldn't they have bought the Consumer products division of Deere?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Glen, the release lever is NOT for towing, only for rolling slowly by hand. Granted you might be able to get away with towing it slowly but if you were to tow it quickly it could damage the hydrostatic pump. The lever itself is light enough that it stays up on it's own, or at least won't have enough weight to hold the buttons down. There should be a small "L" bracket that is used to hold it in the down/release position. It looks like it's there as a "stop", however if you loosen it and rotate it, it can be used as a hold down.

 

[lhinds]

Looks like Lowes is going all Craftsman in their stores. I seen Craftsman screwdrivers and looked closer the name on the handle was Stanley. They were cutting prices on some Kobalt tool sets 75%. I seen a large sign that said excuse our mess we are getting ready for Craftsman. The employees were unpacking Craftsman tool boxes in the stock room.

 

[kshultz]

Going along with what Dennis F. said, the problem with today's manufacturing is that things are designed to last only about 10 years. Then it's time to throw it away and buy a new one instead of designing a long lasting product that can be repaired and last a lifetime. Does anyone remember when there was TV repair shops? Soon there will be no more small engine repair shops because if it goes bad you just buy a new one.

 

[ccarney]

Kraig -

I just had to do the same points clean thing on my 102, after it unexpectedly died after a mow.

Someone had just omitted the bottom points screw; that made things quicker!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Craig, you should probably install a bottom screw... Is that the 102 that I sold to you?

 

[ccarney]

Kraig -

I agree. It's another one I found in Roseville that has rear pto. From a farm out by Litchfield. Runs great, but tires rotted from farm animal manure. PO had replaced the ignition coil with a non-resistor car one, so the points had had a harder life before I got it.
Your old 102 is still here also!

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[rrschmitt]

I didn't realize that MTD was a privately held company. Definitely reason for concern for our older IH Cub Cadets if Stanley/B&D gets their grubby hands on it. Same thing could happen with Navistar and VW as the Germans already got their foot in the door last year.

 

[ksymons]

I've been working on trying to resurface my 129 head with wet/dry paper, but so far can pass a .002 gauge in between a straight edge and the head - mostly along the edges. So apparently there is a convex shape. I suppose (being relatively inexperienced at all this) I should not be working with the head on a window frame (glass is in the frame) since I suppose the glass can bend just enough to not allow for a flat resurfacing (?) I suppose a piece of glass on as flat a surface as I can find is the better way to do it. Then again, should I just have it milled to be sure it's right? Since I'm going through all the trouble to put a rebuilt engine in this thing, I want to maximize my chances of having everything turn out as best I can.

 

[digger]

Keith S.
Just throw the sucker on the kitchen counter or the floor and get-r-done. It's not that big of a deal on those to be perfect.

 

[bbranstetter]

Wow! What to do without Cubby parts. Not good news at all.....

I'd really be bummed if I ever had to change brands.

 

[kide]

Keith S. I posted my process a couple of pages back.. Note I mentioned not using window glass - the reason is it is thin and can flex. If you can't find a piece of thicker glass - I use a flat piece of laminated glass from an older car, then do as Charlie suggest and support your glass on a flat counter or the floor.
I "milled" the head on a flathead a few years ago using a belt sander to take about .030" off then lapped it - I counted the laps, it was flat as my billfold after about 2500 laps...

 

[eford]

I'm going to try a 1/4 inch thick piece of shelf glass, good enough?
I don't buy anything Craftsman anymore. Around here won't even honor the warranty. I buy masterforce from Menards, walk in and exchange if necessary. Only done it once tho. I know about the"value" removed from tools, being in manufacturing. Probably a decade more if they get all of MTD

 

[mgonitzke]

1/4" is fine.

 

[sblunier]

Looks like a good reason to shop Lowes tools...Kobalt are good tools (better than current Craftsman) and their small socket sets, etc are great for having around in the truck, house, shed, etc. On sale, I'd buy some up!!!! Cheap enough you can afford to lose them in a tractor tool box, etc.

 

[mfrade]

Walked up to the 169, turned on the fuel - set the choke... turned the key and fired right off!
Took'er for a short spin.. just because.

Parked her then came back a couple hours later and tried it again.. same deal, fired right off!

I don't know how to react to it now. But if it ain't broke!!!

 

[mgwin]

Mike F,

It's gremlins!

 

[bbranstetter]

If any of you IH tractor specialists are available, I have a genuine

to ask in the Larger Relatives section. Please and Thank you!
Sorry for the o/t post.

Ok back to something on topic.

Does anyone else have issues with the brass valve stem cores coming out of there tubes? I was going to tighten up a gauge wheel on the mower deck the other evening and just barley brushed the valve stem on my wifes 782 and the whole core came shooting out along with the rim guard ballast right behind it. This will be the second tube I have lost like this. Just to clarify, its not the valve core but the brass tube that the core threads into. Just wonder whats going on, guess I'll be ordering more tubes.

 

[dfrisk]

Brian - When I started reading your post about the brass threaded tube blowing out of your inner tube my first thought was, He has that danged Beet Juice in his tires. I've read many posts about that on another forum. There is not a solution as long as you use that beet juice. Switch to calcium chloride, or windshield washer fluid, even used antifreeze.
I'd complain to your tire guy about it. Maybe get free inner tubes or something.