Archive through September 13, 2016

[kmcconaughey]

Austin, you were given great advise by Jason and Matt to NOT drill the broken bolt out, but rather weld a nut onto the remains of it. This way you can remove it by unscrewing it. Drilling out bolts is a technique of last resort and even then it often will fail and you'll have to drill the hole over size and tap it with new threads. Don't make it harder than it is.

 

[jwiggins]

Hey Austin,,,

If you haven't started drilling "YET",,,,,

You could Possibly Consider a common broken bolt/stud method I've had luck with in the past,,,, EVEN if the stud/bolt is broke Flush with part!!!!

I found a pic that better describes the method,,,


Might be helpful,,,

Good Luck,,,, hope everything "comes out" alright!!!!

 

[sblunier]

Marlin

$34 at my local menards last night...340 cca. Exide

 

[aewald]

Jason W
Sadly that will not work, becasue the stud was broken off below the housing. so maybe like cm or 1mm deep

 

[jwiggins]

Austin, Man Sorry to hear That,,,
I was really hoping you might not have to drill & tap that rear housing,,,

Well I'm very curious to hear about the project and how it turns out,,,

There are a lot of guys here w/ lots of experience on these little tractors,,, If you have any more questions or concerns don't hesitate to ask,,,,

 

[eford]

Austin I second the welding a nut on method. I screwed up a water pump bolt(I think it was) in the block of my 77 f250. I tried drilling it out and luckily I didn't ---- it up too badly and my awesome mechanic put a new helicoil in it. I could have ended up scrapping the engine if it was a head bolt.

Jason, THAT is exactly what I'm going to put in my garage for working on the cubs! I'm going to use a trolley though. I moved my 'extra' k341 and I can't believe I really picked one out of a 1650 by myself! Oof!

 

[jmitchell]

Hey Harry...I agree that a properly working hydro drive would be be a better choice in terms of keeping the engine RPMs up, thus keeping the thrower speed at peak speed while controlling the ground speed of the tractor itself. My ExMark Lazer Z has spoiled me with the hydrodrive idea. But it is what it is..LOL...A plain jane 126 that I have quite of bit of time, money, and effort into the mechanicals of it. ..It's ran great since last fall, when I was in here on a daily basis gleaning info and asking questions..I think ol' yellar is a keeper at this point..If worse comes to worse..I know the push blade works pretty darn good for shoving snow around...But man..all those Youtube videos showing vintage Cubs throwing snow OUT of the area needing clearing, sure has me wanting to do some refurb on my QA42A.

If I can remember this Sunday..I'll try and take some good close up photos of all the points you brought up and perhaps post some here just to get opinions.

BTW..Bought a #2 cart...overpaid for it for sure, but paid less than what was being asked! Ha!

Thanks to everyone who makes this THE forum for IH produced Cubs..

John

 

[jwiggins]

Hey Earl,

OMG!!!!!

I bet "Next Time" you'll put them little angle bracket's on top dem Kohlers to good use, Huh?

I do like the trolley idea,,, mine is "kinda" a pain being stationary, my beams run Cross ways,,, but still better than brute force strength,,,,, unless you just missed the daily workout at the gym that day,,,,

 

[hydroharry]

Earl F - if you had drained the oil out of your K341AQS it would have been 48oz lighter

Ten years ago, and more, when I was doing this stuff on a regular basis those engines were heavy to man-handle out and even a little harder getting back in. Last weekend I man-handled a K241 and it just about broke my back. I don't have a steel beam in my garage. My Dad always talked about using a sky-hook. Anybody know where I can get one??? Jason, you seem to know where to find a lot of things???

John M - nothing wrong with using a QA42A on a 126. Having a Creeper could help. I think running the throttle wide open and controlling the tractor speed by gear selection and feathering clutch is most common method. Never even thought about using throttle to control feeding snow to the auger. Maybe one of the Gear Heads on here will comment.

 

[mgonitzke]

John M.-

A creeper is a necessity if you want to put a snowthrower on a gear drive, unless all you get is extremely light snow an inch at a time. First gear is too fast for most snows, and I disagree with the suggestion to slip the clutch to slow it down. Won't be long and the pressure plates will be glazed, and then it'll slip very easily. Throttle needs to be wide open to throw snow; don't even think about trying to modulate your speed with the throttle, either.

Years ago (sadly I think I'm old enough to say that now...I think this was 9-10 years ago) I put a snowthrower on a 128 I had at the time. That was the first and last time I've used one on a gear drive. I had a hard time finding the right speed, and I got tired of shifting the creeper from low to high every time I wanted to use reverse and back again. For the thrower to really work properly, you have to vary the tractor's forward speed to keep the thrower full, but not too full. Without a hydro, this is about impossible in my experience.