Archive through September 11, 2012

[dtanner]

Someone has to do it !

 

[brhodes]

Ryan / Chris
Nice Finds

So do you guys have a sign out fount of your place or what? I think I'm doing something wrong here.

 

[wcarmichael]

To those who responded to my earlier post about the 126 - thanks! Still trying to navigate - it doesn't seem like this site uses "threads." Anyway, with the money I'm spending there is no way I could ever sell at a profit but I do want the tractor to be "correct" in terms of what restoring I do. I don't plan to sell it until I'm too feeble to drive it.

 

[fwatson]

LET US NOT FORGET 9/11/01

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank,

Bryan M. was the first to post about it:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Bryan McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-tran in Barrington,IL (Bmcmeen) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 07:18 am:

All I can say is F-ING BASTARDS!

If ya don't know what I'm talking about, check the news.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Here's a sampling of the posts that followed:</font>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Steve Blunier (Sblunier) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 07:22 am:

Amen Bryan......

What seemed like a bad accident, just turned into a terrorist attack....with a comercial jet airliner as a Kamakazi!!!!! F#$%ING Bastards is right!!!!!!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Bryan McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-tran in Barrington,IL (Bmcmeen) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 07:23 am:

SB -

Two of 'em - one in each tower!

Nobody would happen to have a scan of that old "I'd fly 1000 miles to smoke a camel" fax, would they?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Steve Blunier (Sblunier) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 07:27 am:

Somebody's gonna get their ass whipped over this one........just hope that not many people had started work yet....<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Jim Steele (Jsteele) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 07:27 am:

Now they say they may be hijacked passenger planes.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Jim Steele (Jsteele) on Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - 07:28 am:

It was after 9 a.m. there, there will be a lot of folks in that tower at work. NY city is basically closed for biz.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">It continued through out the day. Jim Steele worked at a newspaper and had access to newswires so he was posting regular updates.</font>

 

[fcurrier]

I'm thinking of selling this K301 block. Engine was running OK but using oil so I thought I'd rering it. Then I found another. Then I noticed a casting flaw (?) in the intake. At first I thought it was a crack, but it isn't. Could/should this area be polished or will it really make any difference?

 

[jsalatino]

Need some advice on rebuilding a carb. Getting ready to order some parts for that #30 I picked up.As far as the throttle butterfly goes whats better to use,stainless or the brass? Whats the difference betweeen the two.Not sure which one to order,I havent started on it yet ,but I do want to replace everything,dont ask why .lol It does have slight play in the shaft ,needs a bushing. what do you guys think

 

[wcompton]

Frank-
It's a parting line for the core that would have been in there for the intake runner. It can be easily touched up if need-be.

 

[dfrisk]

FRANK - Unless you're going to do a full port & polish on both the intake & exh I woudn't bother doing anything to that intake port. It's run for how many years that way?

JONATHAN - On your carb rebuild, I'd use the brass throttle butterfly. The SS version is probably made for use with alcohol fuels. Far as replacing "Everything", what exactly do you consider that to include? I'd get the standard rebuild kit which has the main float fuel valve & seat, the float bowl gaskets & seal ring, and I think a new float hinge pin. There's also a throttle valve rebuild kit that has the new throttle shaft & a bushing, plus two new screws to attach the throttle blade to the new shaft. The old screws are "staked", meaning the exposed thread or two are deformed and most times the screw heads snap off while trying to remove them.

Most people don't replace things like the main fuel jet, or the main fuel adjusting needle, or the idle adjustment screw. Not even sure they're still available from Kohler.

 

[kide]

Harry B:
I'm still scratching my head over a comment you made the other day... " That little points pushrod does wear and with the points set at the correct gap your timing will still be off. ". Now on a magneto setup where the points rubbing block rides directly on the cam (like a Cushman flathead) I've seen timing variations with the points set at the right gap, after the rubbing block was filed about .020 due to a change (slight) in angle relationship between the moving arm of the points and the cam itself, but I'm trying to figure out how the timing would change on a perpendicular relationship between the cam and the pushrod IF the gap was correct.....

Too nice a day for 'puters, heading for the open road on the Big Blue bike.... (to he.. with a bad back)

 

[klorenz]

Gerry,
That statement has been made before by several different people. I have always wondered the same thing. If the points pushrod is slightly worn in length from factory spec, how does that affect timing if your points gap is set correctly?

If I am missing the obvious here...go ahead and give me hell!!

 

[rmcshane]

Bill- It's all about connections, and just luck. Being in the right place at the right time.

 

[dtanner]

Guys , I think if the point rod has wore some and not adjusted for the wear then the engine is not in time. But if the points are adjusted after the wear then I don`t see a problem as long as the points have there same amount of movement we should be good to go.

Frank C

I would not fret over that casting line . To remove it on a stock engine would not effect HP
in that engine . I would check to see if the cylinder is out of round at the bottom, That is where they seem to go out of shape . If it is not out of round , just bubble hone and add new rings and you might be good with a great engine. I have had good luck doing that .I don`t have one oil burner here but have done full bore rebuilds on at least 3 Cubs. The 129 just needed a honing and new rings. That 129 is a great working tractor and burns not oil (no Smoke).

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY, KIRK, --- well, Gerry will have to read this when he gets back from his bike ride...

You have to consider where the wear takes place on the points actuating mechanism. The pushrod is aluminum so it wears instead of the hardened cast iron lobe on the camshaft, but, the lobes do wear sometimes with enough hours of use. THAT effects the total opening of the points, and would effect timing.

The wear on the alum. push rod, may or may not effect timing or points opening measurement. If the points were recently set to spec, then the timing wouldn't be effected. If the push rod wore since being set to spec, then yes, timing would be effected. Not much wear occurs on the points end of the pushrod, no movement between the rod & points.

The pivot of the points shouldn't wear. But the contacts erode with use, raising high spots and creating craters. How that effects timeing is best decribed by the words, "It Depends". If your points are in that bad of shape, I'd replace them.

Thing I've really noticed here on this and other boards the last couple years is that condensors are getting very poor anymore. They have a high failure rate when new, and your lucky to make it to the typical old 250 hour tune up interval. My personal experience the last few years is more like about half that long.

Years ago when Dad was still farming he'd push the tune-up interval on most of his tractors. Instead of 250 hrs he'd run them more like 500+ hrs. You can't get away with that with today's points & condesors. On cars/trucks, 10,000 miles was considered 250 hrs, and I'd normally replace plugs, points, & condensor around then. Glad I was a GM person back then with the Delco "Unipoints", points & condensor all in one piece, plus you'd open the little window on the distributor cap and set the dwell. MUCH easier than messing with other brands/designs of ignitions.

 

[kide]

Note that Harry said " with the points set at the correct gap ". Actually what tweaked my interest in this was the experience I noted with the (OT) Cushman style. A known problem with the replacement points from Dennis Carpenter (our main supplier of all things Cushman)is weak spark and the cure (from Steve Lorenz, our main man for all secrets Cushman) is to file .020 off the rubbing block. What I've been told is this brings the point opening in phase with the magnet passing the coil (all gotta happen at the right time on internal magneto systems on small engines). I was thinking Harry knew of a similar phenomena on the Kohler style w/pushrod ... BTW - Ride good, back bad...

 

[mgonitzke]

I always use the static timing method in the Kohler manual to set the points since I've found that setting them at 0.020" rarely results in the points opening at the proper time. Works every time...

 

[mpatterson]

Stupid question time!

How do you test the output of your generator on a 100? Is this possible to do in your home shop or do you need to take it to a specialty shop to have it checked? Only "fancy" tools I have is a screw driver, hammer, and an ohm meter! So, that being said?

Ordered some parts the other night - hope they will be here by the first of next week unless Mr. Postman works faster!

 

[aschumacher]

Mike, a basic generator check is easy. Set your meter up to read DC volts. Range switch to 20 volts. Start up your tractor and put the throttle to about 1/2 speed. Put the black lead of the meter on the minus post of the battery and red one on the positive post. The meter should read about 13.5 volts. Anything higher or lower isn't good. I bet your going to find a much higher voltage. With that information we can get you farther along.

 

[fcurrier]

Allen: That's about as basic and "to the point" as can be gotten!
Mike: When you say "ohmmeter" I hope you mean "multimeter" and in my book it's in the same class as a hammer and screwdriver - every homeowner should have them and know how to use them.

 

[dtanner]

Mike Patterson

I bet your voltage will be a lot higher than 13.5 V when you check it . A new regulator will be needed to make sure the voltage is not blowing(cooking ) coils .

For some reason my 149 stopped charging today.

I guess I will have to do some looking to find out why it is not charging my battery.I will need to look at my 129 loader also for the same issue. I see Charlie getting an order for two regulators. I wonder IF I will get a discount buying two .