Archive through September 05, 2016

[mlatour]

I got a 1973 Cub Cadet 10 HP Kohler motor and 38 inch deck with a spare motor and carburettor on the side, at a yard sale, and the vendor jump started it with a car battery and shorted across the solenoid because he was missing a key for the ignition. It ran, I bought it.

I got a new (used OEM) switch to replace the non standard key missing one. Popped it in and the sucker is silent, will not go. I want to verify the operation of the clutch and PTO safety switches, but cannot locate them on the chassis, nor do I know what they look like.
Can anyone help?

 

[aewald]

Just two questions, on my 129 it only smokes at high rpm to mid rpm. Does not smoke on startup. Could this be a valve issue? And How would I go about putting value guides in? and has anyone put 15W-40 or 15-40 diesel oil in there small engines? I was reading some where that its should make your engine run alot better and fewer rebuilds.

 

[kmusgrave]

Brought this Original home a few days ago. Wondering what the serial number is. Features, trans casting date and other known items are consistent with the 33248. Looks like the 3328 number was partially sanded off at some time. Anyone seen this before, mistake at the factory or ?? (rotated for reading)

 

[mhomrighausen]

Mark L. Perhaps Roland Bedell's colored wiring diagrams will help you out. CLICK HERE.

Jason W. You're probably correct since our carts aren't Cub Cadet carts. Mine is going inside the "new to me" shed. Ill try to get some pictures this weekend.

Everyone have a SAFE and awesome day. Off to work shortly.

 

[mgonitzke]

Austin E.-

Running multi-weight in the warmer months will increase oil consumption. I used to run 15w-40 in my 782 as a "compromise" between summer and winter, but it doesn't get cold enough in the winter where I am now to justify it, and I got tired of the oil burn in the summer.

 

[hydroharry]

Geez, I don't check in for 2 days and can't believe how much catching up I have to do. I see all kinds of recent stuff.

 

[jwiggins]

Kurt -

The #8 on top has a fat bottom, and the #2's are noticeably different also. Definitely two different die sets.
I couldn't imagine any reason at all a PO would be doing any stamping. Since every number appears to be stamped individually my best guess would be, as you mentioned, "factory mistake". That's not something you see everyday. Nice score on the Original! Now we've seen the serial, how bout the rest of the tractor?

 

[hydroharry]

Well, finally pretty much caught up with all the stuff over the last couple days.

Jason - thanks for the compliments. Glad I'm able to help you out. Ya know, I don't know why it is I'm pretty good at spotting stuff that's done differently. Just one of those things.

Now, I'm really sorry to see that 1250 sittin' out in the woods. You know it just doesn't do anyone any good there. If you just tear it all apart you can hang most things up someplace in your garage/shop. Probably not much reason to keep the frame and broken rearend around so those could disappear.

You did ask about tri-ribs for your front tires and someone suggested using the 1250 rims. I don't think the tri-ribs were help you much but I do have a suggestion that you have to just try. For some reason IH reversed the front wheels when they changed from the narrow to wide frames. The narrow frames have the wide offset to the outside and the wide frames have the wide offset to the inside. The wide frames tend to show a lot of camber so on my 169 I used narrow frame front wheels. I don't have a good pic but I'll attach one below so you can at least see the offset.

You can reverse the wheels on your 149 just to see how it looks/feels/steers/etc., BUT you can't do it for long. Reversing the wheels puts your valve stems toward the inside and they'll hit the spindle on each revolution and eventually tear. You really need to check them (rotate a couple times) when you reverse and install the wheel. Sometimes, with longer valve stems it will catch and just tear out.

And yes, the Correct Police will likely pick up on this. All I can say is that my version is using original IH parts (narrow frame wheels).

Since you're really handy with your welder you could take those 1250 front wheels and weld over the original holes for the valve stems, and drill new holes on the opposite sides if you decide the reverse positioning gives you that little bit extra stability feeling.

 

[aewald]

I plan on putting a vtwin in my 149, would I need to upgrade my wiring harness? then what harness would i need to get one for a ql series or 82 series? since those has stators and not a starter gen. Thanks to anyone who can lead me in a direction.

 

[hydroharry]

Austin - I don't know how much planning you've done but I don't think a V-twin will just drop into a 149. The frame will likely have to be cut down. As for the wiring harness, I'd suggest what ever tractor the V-twin was designed for is the wiring harness you'd need. You'll likely have to plan for an electric PTO as well since the 149 doesn't have one, and the V-twin engine is likely to large to allow use of the 149 PTO linkage. You'll probably have to plan a different exhaust pipe outlet as well.

 

[sblunier]

......OR leave the rims as is and install nice Verdstien V61 16x6.50x8 5 ribs........what's Kraig always saying "Perfection...."

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

It may not help Jason any, but it would sure look mighty nice to see tri-ribs with those monster mudders he has on the rear!

 

[digger]

Another in a long line of BAD NEWS from Cub Cadet!

If you have an Original and need front wheel bushings, YOUR SCREWED!

They pulled this crap a couple years ago and now they've decided to do it again, MAYBE for good this time!

I had 32 on hand and a dealer in Texas just bought them all today.

 

[sbauer]

Good evening. I just got my 782 back from the local dealer. They did a leak down test for me because it was still down on power after the carb got rebuilt. They said I had 52 and 48 percent leak down on the exhaust side. Any suggestion on what to do? They tried to charge me $1,600. My neighbor is suggesting buying rebuilt heads and bolting them on along with new gaskets.

 

[mgonitzke]

Charlie-

Not for anyone with a lathe. They've discontinued far harder-to-make parts, for sure.

Steven B.-

New heads won't fix leaks through the exhaust valve. I think I'd lap the valves and reset the lash to factory specs (by grinding the valve stem on the twins, be careful, you get one chance) and see if you still have a problem. I don't think I'd visit that dealer again.

 

[wshytle]

Marty-

I told you I would post a pic or two of the 108 but I want to hold off until the engine is back in.

This 108 has been fun to work on. I haven't come across any aftermarket bolts. It has the little side shields and the braking pto is in fine shape. I don't think it has ever been abused in any way other than regular mowing duties and maybe pulling a yard cart. I'm thinking of putting a 38" deck on it and have yet another backup mower. I've gone over most every little thing cleaning/lubing and painting a few things. The tank is spotless on the inside so it got painted along with the brackets. The engine looks like it has been taken care of too. This was going to be only a few day ordeal but I think it will be worth it. The clutch is on it's way so that will give the paint time to dry (on the few things that got it).

.

 

[jwiggins]

Ok so acting on Marty's suggestion I pulled front wheels from 1250, one wheel bearing stamped HEIM 12-2 2-14 APJ literally fell right off! Rims don't look that bad but the wheel bearing "race"? Looks pretty chewed up! I think rims are salvageable but not sure if new bearings pressed in would help or not if the "race" is in bad shape????

 

[sblunier]

Jason,

Those aren't races, rather bores, that the sealed front wheel bearings ride in. Tap around the bore's circumference with a hammer to tighten them up a little, put new bearings in, and forget about them for a while!!!! (But first paint the rims and add some V-61's!!!!)

 

[digger]

Firestone TriRib!

 

[pfeenstra]

Have the TriRibs on my 1250. Almost like installing power steering as others have stated before.