Archive through September 04, 2011

[crlamb]

My grandson has a Cub with a Kohler 10hp 241AQS engine. He wants to rebuild the engine/have it rebuilt, but he has disassembled the engine and wants to have the engine bored .30 over. He has tried to remove the flywheel, but there is a "rope start" pulley attached to the front of the flywheel. Any idea how to remove this to allow the removal of the flywheel ?

 

[crlamb]

Cant figure out how to get this think off the flywheel

 

[junderwood]

Charles,

Looks like a drive shaft bushing stuck in the drive adapter. You need to get that out and there should be a bolt or nut under it holding the pulley on. You'll need an internal pulling adapter for a slide hammer or something like that to get the bushing out.

 

[crlamb]

Thank You "junderwood". Got it off

 

[tpennell]

So was the verdict on my "head" just a normal 10 HP head? I hate to admit it but I was a little confused by the pics. It looks normal but the head bolt standoffs look like the LP version yet underneath looked standard. Apologize in advance if it is a stupid question. Hope everyone had a wonderful weekend. Tim P.

 

[mgonitzke]

Just like I said last night...that is not an LP head.

 

[tpennell]

Thanks Matt for the clarification. That is all I was looking for, I for the record was not aware of the different types nor did I state which type it was. Some of the other threads just confused me so I was merely trying to get a straight answer as to what it really was. Have a great evening.
Tim

 

[jstertz]

I have encountered a problem with my Original that has me

! My son Caleb wants to drive his "new" Cub-Z (his name for it) but I can't get it started!!!!

It doesn't have any spark! As I mentioned earlier, a PO removed the key switch and installed a push/pull kill switch. When I was backing in the shed the other night, the O killed right when I got it where I wanted it. However, I never turned the kill switch off. Caleb wanted to drive it yesterday and I went out to start it and the battery was dead. I took the battery off and recharged it. After installing it, it turned over great but wouldn't fire. The PO had just installed a new coil because he said the spark was weak. I know that the coil was energized until the battery died, could this have ruined the new coil? Could my voltage regulator encountered a problem? The points and condenser are old and decrepid and need replacing but this thing was starting quickly and running just two days ago! All the wiring is pretty much 50 years old, so there could be issues there. Any info you need from me, I'd be glad to get you.

Please help or link me to an archive that could be a help to me, my son wants to drive his "Cub-Z"

 

[kweaver]

Josh - If when you "didn't" shut off the kill switch it could have fried the points and/or burnt out the coil IF the points were closed when it stopped running.
That would allow the voltage to make a complete circuit keeping voltage applied to the coil.

Since you said "two days ago" and that the battery is dead I'd say the points were closed.
That's 2 days of heating up the coil with applied voltage and no where for it to go.

The points will most likely be burnt if not welded shut and the coil is most likely shorted.

 

[jstertz]

Thanks Ken for the "good" news! The points are still functioning-i.e. not welded together but I'd be willing to bet the new coil is junk. Can I put a regular automotive coil in it? Do I need to put a special GT coil in it? What is the most cost efficient? Thanks

 

[kweaver]

Josh - Yes you can use an auto coil as long as it has a built in resistor. Points (auto or Kohler) only like 6-9 volts so a coil without a resistor will burn out the points. BTDT on a truck.

 

[tpennell]

Is it a bad idea to test my components from the 104 on my Original. Meaning starter/generator, voltage regulator, coil. I would swap them out one by one of course but I am wondering if that is not a feasible way to see if they are operational or not. I am sure that there are better ways of doing it but I am limited on resources and I am trying to access what is good and what isn't.

 

[mgonitzke]

Timothy-

The voltage regulator is probably different, so make sure you hook it up correctly if you switch that out. The others are essentially the same between the two. Go to Harbor Freight and get a $3 multimeter, that will probably limit the swapping of components and help you figure out what the problem is.

 

[tpennell]

Matt, thanks. I have a multimeter but not sure how to test the regulator. I suppose really I should search the FAQ first. But the other components are an easy swapout so I may do that. Thanks again for clarification on the head. I am currently just accessing what I have and dont have right now on this thing. I am working on the carb today and cleaning that up. I want to try to make one shopping list to save shipping if you know what I mean.

 

[rjkaroses]

Does a Brinly plow for a 105 fit all or do I have to look for something specific?

 

[bjrainey]

Randy,
The Brinly plow works on all tractors fitted with a sleeve hitch. If your 105 doesn't have the rear lift, you will need that and the sleeve hitch to use a brinly plow.
Hope this helps.

 

[tpennell]

Any suggestions on getting the bowl off of a carb. without beating it to death? I do NOT want to dent the bowl. It is stubborn and not budging.
tim.

 

[thoffman]

Tim "P",
strap wrench.

 

[thoffman]

Just finished installing one of my least favorite narrow frame add ons, the rear lift. For a item with three bolts, and a couple of pins, it's a PITA AFAIC.

 

[astrawderman]

Does anyone know if you have to take out the whole steering column to get the dash board off of a wide frame cub cadet, or is there an easier way?