• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through September 04, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Decided to call it a night after doing a little more work on the 1650 to pull the hydraulics off of it to transplant to the 129. I've gotten everything out from under the dash that I need, about the only thing left is to remove the Hydro unit, the driveshaft is off, and the hydraulic lines are off the pump except for the line coming from the differential housing.

Looking at the diagrams, its hard to see which bolts actually remove the hydro pump from the transaxle case. I plan to make the pump to tranny gasket out of reinforced neoprene BTW.

Here's a shot of the assembly:

169109.png
 
I was given a little information from a cub dealer how to make the cub hydros a little more responsive. I put a 1/4" washer or 2 on each end button. This takes up the slack between the smaller inner spring and the heavier outer spring. This works well and most of my cubs do not hardly slow down at all when getting to my hills in my yard. They will also get up and go when you move the hydro lever.
 
Hello y'all;

Had my on "mini plow day" today.
Started working on my food plots.
169115.jpg

That 149 is a stud! I likie!
Shift.gif

Everything was going great until the right front wheel tried to come off!
169116.jpg


Snakes are still active. This timber rattler was pissed!
169117.jpg
 
Wes,
Nice tip!
A lot of us have been doing it the "hard" way by actually welding up the worn metal on the end of the trunion arm to restore the original dimensions. If the metal is worn to the point that it's about to wear through, fixing it the hard way might still be the best route, but for the rest of us, it can be a real time saver. Good timing, as I'm right in the middle of a hydraulics transplant between a 1650 and a 129. I also plan to possibly replace some of the linkage ball joints as well.
 
Marlin/Matt I do have a decent log splitter to pull behind it has a ball hitch. Its just that we see so much that the cubs can do I just started wondering, its kinda surprising that IH did not think of a log splitter. A 782D probaly could handle a larger pump either way it was just a thought. to stay on topic what is everyones 2 cents on the side panals on my 1200 I was told that they need to be in place to cool the engine as it was desinged that way I prefer leaving mine off.
 
Strait H.,
Thanks for sharing your data!
thumbsup.gif


Regarding,"Does the presence of the tube on the S/G side indicate my engine has balance gears? I'd have to say it's not the tube on the S/G side that is the indicator, rather it is the presence of BOTH tubes that would indicate that it has balance gears (or had, because someone may have already taken the balance gears out over the past 39 years).

Typically, if the engine just has the taller tube on the S/G side, it won't have the balance gears, because the long dipstick would have to reside in the same location as the gears would.
However, if the engine has both tubes or just the short tube on the carb side, then there is a chance they ARE there and I'd be pulling the oil pan off and looking up in there to check it out!

Yep, I agree with your findings, that your 127 Cub tractor was built in Oct 1970 and its engine is a Replacement engine, also built in 1970.

Ryan Wilke
beerchug.gif
 
Bruce, I still fixed the trunnion slot. By adding the washers just makes everything a little stiffer and therefore more responsive to any movement in the lever or linkage. My 1650 will just crawl along and will go faster according to how much I move the hydro lever. It does not slow down when coming to a hill. The only time it slows down from one speed is when you drop the plow in the ground behind you. You do have to move the lever farther then but it will hold what ever speed you set it for.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Friday, September 04, 2009 - 10:09 am:

Ryan, I have a 147 here that has a 'dual tube' K321A 2129875 spec 6099A serial is 433325 April 1972 I think.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Don T.,
Are you sure about that tractor serial number?
confused.gif


Reason I question it is because according to the FAQ data chart, http://cubfaq.com/ihbuilt.html
it states that the 147 Cubs were built between 11-69 to 08-71 and were issued serial numbers between 316816 - 400000.

BUT - your 147 Cub serial # 433325 is beyond the indicated serial # range.
It would also indicate a build date of 04-72, also beyond the indicated production build date range.
confused.gif


"Me nose thinks there might be a skunk in the woodpile somewheres."
1a_scratchhead.gif


Ryan Wilke
dunno.gif
 
Hey, i got new additions to my cub fleet. Now i have my 1967 124, a 1963 70, and a 1970 127. Only thing that sucks is that the 127 has a bad regulator, and doesnt charge too well, so it sits and charges half the time. Pics to come in just a bit...
ihrotate.gif
ihrotate.gif
lazerburn.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top