Bryan, Hmmm, I never thought of that. Given time I'm sure someone would have, but now that you mentioned it I bet it's less likely to happen. 
)
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Archive through September 02, 2005
- Thread starter dkirk
- Start date
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hehe! Just poking fun Kraig
BTW - is the October 22d date for fall plow day west of Rochelle still good? I want to block it out to make sure it stays free!
The 1200's got it's new hitch bar on (nice and heavy one this time so it doesn't bend!), all I have left to do is get the tri-ribs mounted on their rims.
BTW - is the October 22d date for fall plow day west of Rochelle still good? I want to block it out to make sure it stays free!
The 1200's got it's new hitch bar on (nice and heavy one this time so it doesn't bend!), all I have left to do is get the tri-ribs mounted on their rims.
Attachments
till
Well-known member
Don't know if I cought anything from here. I run Lava soft Ad-ware SE and it shows where stuff comes from. I will check its log a little more closely next run through. That should be Friday ish.
CubCubCubCub.
BTW will not be able to make Lake County on Sat, but can on Sun.
CubCubCubCub.
BTW will not be able to make Lake County on Sat, but can on Sun.
bnyquist
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- Sep 11, 2002
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- Bruce N. Original, 70, 100, 72, 127, 1250, 1450
I need to cultivate (after tilling) under the apple trees in my orchard.
Is there a drag behind impliment that gives complete tillage and is limited to a couple of inches in depth??
And do I need Ag tires or dual rears to pull it?
Is there a drag behind impliment that gives complete tillage and is limited to a couple of inches in depth??
And do I need Ag tires or dual rears to pull it?
bnyquist
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- Bruce N. Original, 70, 100, 72, 127, 1250, 1450
Thanks Roland for the prompt reply. That may work. I need to keep grass from establishing.
I was thinking of something solid hitched so it would be easier to control. Like those disk things larger tractors use.
I was thinking of something solid hitched so it would be easier to control. Like those disk things larger tractors use.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bruce N.-
How about a cultivator?
How about a cultivator?
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Why not use landscape fabric and a wood chip mulch a few feet out around the the trees and then just mow the rest of the area? Just don't pile the mulch right up to the trunk of the tree.
Mulching Trees
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 06, 2005)
Mulching Trees
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 06, 2005)
Forum Folks- Battery question- bought a 122 last summer and have always been puzzled over the battery wiring. The + on the battery goes to the frame of the tractor and neg to the starter!! It starts fine and runs fine but this seems strange. My 66 MG is wired this way but all those blokes in England did this. Has someone converted this thing to positive ground? Thoughts? Dave
David P., I saw your post this morning asking about the battery connections as I'm sure did a bunch of other people. A response can often take 24 hours so please be patient, no need to repost the query so soon. I might be wrong, which is why I didn't post a response earlier, but I believe the Starter/Generator, aka S/G, is auto polarizing so if someone hooked it up wrong they may not have noticed and it would still work. You might be able to just swap the battery connections but to be sure, I'd wait until you get some more input from the forum members.
Under edit: After reading a section from my IH Electrical book, what likely happened is that the S/G was improperly polarized after it was rebuilt so the previous owner wired it backwards to make it turn the engine over the correct direction. I believe you'll need to repolarize the S/G to make it work. I'd wait for more input from the forum before I did anything.
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 06, 2005)
Under edit: After reading a section from my IH Electrical book, what likely happened is that the S/G was improperly polarized after it was rebuilt so the previous owner wired it backwards to make it turn the engine over the correct direction. I believe you'll need to repolarize the S/G to make it work. I'd wait for more input from the forum before I did anything.
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 06, 2005)
Kraig thanks for your input, thought my message got lost in the adware and PC discussions. I know how responsive and knowledgeable folks on this forum are. I'll check back again tommarrow. I've never been one to have a lot of patience I'm afraid.
I'll try re-posting my question again...
It looks like I have a bad # 2 cylinder (corrosion) on my M18 and will either need to be re-bored or find a used replacement with a good bore (anyone?). The # 1 is good to go. My question is, is there such a thing as just boring & re-sizing one cylinder or must they be done in pairs? Also, will a # 2 off of a KT17 series II work?
Thanks
It looks like I have a bad # 2 cylinder (corrosion) on my M18 and will either need to be re-bored or find a used replacement with a good bore (anyone?). The # 1 is good to go. My question is, is there such a thing as just boring & re-sizing one cylinder or must they be done in pairs? Also, will a # 2 off of a KT17 series II work?
Thanks
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Bryan,
I know when you re-bore a 6 or 8 cyl. you do all of them as standard practice. Maybe because they're all connected with one machine setup, or because of balance. I never knew the real reason. However, .010 over on an aluminum piston might add up to what, a half a gram or less? I would think carbon buildup in one cyl. would take that up that much weight. With the cost of this engine (money pit) surmounting, everything is becoming a consideration. What do you think?
I know when you re-bore a 6 or 8 cyl. you do all of them as standard practice. Maybe because they're all connected with one machine setup, or because of balance. I never knew the real reason. However, .010 over on an aluminum piston might add up to what, a half a gram or less? I would think carbon buildup in one cyl. would take that up that much weight. With the cost of this engine (money pit) surmounting, everything is becoming a consideration. What do you think?
A
amenghi
Guest
Hello everybody,
Another lurker checking in ... I've learned a lot from this board - thanks.
I recently picked up a 122 in good shape with dual wheel weights, 3pt hitch, plow, deck, and cart. It was lonely so I bought a semi-basket case that turned out to be a 102. I got that one running the other day. I like to tinker, and want a tractor tractor for my place - the lawn tractor doesn't cut it.
Both tractors have horrible steering and the pedestal towers are cracked at the base from the force needed to turn the wheel. I'll go through the columns and front ends. Is this a typical problem with these?
Another question - the cart is a rectangular (i.e not mason tub shaped) IH one with the decals and all, but there is no serial tag. The only other one that I have ever seen had a tag on it. Did the tag disappear, or did they come that way too?
I'd like to build a rear blade to go off the 3 pt hitch, and also hope to find a side mounted sickle bar to trim around my pond with.
Just figured I'd check in - sorry for the longish post.
Thanks
Another lurker checking in ... I've learned a lot from this board - thanks.
I recently picked up a 122 in good shape with dual wheel weights, 3pt hitch, plow, deck, and cart. It was lonely so I bought a semi-basket case that turned out to be a 102. I got that one running the other day. I like to tinker, and want a tractor tractor for my place - the lawn tractor doesn't cut it.
Both tractors have horrible steering and the pedestal towers are cracked at the base from the force needed to turn the wheel. I'll go through the columns and front ends. Is this a typical problem with these?
Another question - the cart is a rectangular (i.e not mason tub shaped) IH one with the decals and all, but there is no serial tag. The only other one that I have ever seen had a tag on it. Did the tag disappear, or did they come that way too?
I'd like to build a rear blade to go off the 3 pt hitch, and also hope to find a side mounted sickle bar to trim around my pond with.
Just figured I'd check in - sorry for the longish post.
Thanks
Need a little help!! Does any one know if there is a difference in the wiring harnesses for a 70 and 100? I need one for a 100 I found one for a 70 not sure if it will work. I dont have the original one for the 100 to compare it to.Any help would be great..
bnyquist
Active member
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- Bruce N. Original, 70, 100, 72, 127, 1250, 1450
Thanks for the links Bryan M. that does the trick. The Brinly Tandem Disc looks like the sure thing. Spendy I bet........
Kraig, Mulching 250 trees is a daunting task. Mulch also harbors mice, they will girdle small trees.
In the fall I plant a cover crop, other wise the trees are kept tilled/cultivated within 5 feet of the trunk.
(Message edited by bnyquist on September 06, 2005)
Kraig, Mulching 250 trees is a daunting task. Mulch also harbors mice, they will girdle small trees.
In the fall I plant a cover crop, other wise the trees are kept tilled/cultivated within 5 feet of the trunk.
(Message edited by bnyquist on September 06, 2005)
