Archive through October 29, 2010

[dtanner]

Steve Shaff

Great job , you should be proud ! I agree it takes a lot of work to rebuild a CC , more than I thought at first. I see you have a 129 yet in your profile. will you be restoring that also?

Dennis , Kraig

Funny how you mention bolting weights on a Cub useing only two holes and adding more weight by the other. I do that and found the second set is much easier to install over the first set.I did by some threaded rod last week and thought I could locktite the nut on . I know its not correct but is cheaper that way.I will have 100 lbs per wheel on my 1512 this winter with the snow blower and have an add in the paper here for some suitcase weights for the back. I want as much weight as the blower hanging back there,I think this should counter balance the blower and give me great traction.If It stops raining here and my sub frames dry out I have five and decks to store some day soon.I will be happy when the day comes that I can post a picture of all my tractors finished. have a great day all

 

[stanner]

Steve S,
lookin' good!!!

Don T, and Steve S,
If you finish them all, then what'll you do for fun?!?!

 

[rberg]

Digger, Actually the pin in the axle will not turn. the wobble is in the bracket that holds the axle I would like to send you a picture but I do not know how that is done. I know how to send attachment in E-mail but not here on the forum.Ron

 

[dtanner]

Ronald Berg

You can use a big C clamp and get it bent back in place. I pinned both sides on my loader to keep the channel from spreading.my .02

 

[mlamar]

Steve
That is a fine group of girls ya got. I'd say a job(s) well done. I see a nice workshop also. Those Cubs will be around when you and I are long gone. Keep up the good work.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve S., VERY NICE!

 

[rberg]

Scott Tanner On your paint and rust removal do you have a schematic on the parts and and the amount of ingredics Maybe I will send you a personnal E-mail and try to explain what I am after and need Ron

 

[klorenz]

Here is how I mounted 2 sets of weights on my 100. Extra l-o-n-g bolts that pass all the way through. Tricky to mount? Heck yes, without scratching all the paint up. I just like seeing all the holes filled.....

Speaking of weights on pulling tractors? Here is my son pulling yesterday. We are always the only one running wheel weights. 80lbs per side. I know wheel weights are said to be no good on a pulling tractor especially on a fast moving tractor. But he always pulls in 1st gear (10hp engine). Snagged (2) 1st places again yesterday in the 1050lb 10hp and 12hp classes.

 

[sshaff]

Don T -- The 129 goes to Dave Ross for his assistance near the end of the project. I think he has a creative mechanical idea he'd like to pursue with it, but I'll let him elaborate.

Mike L -- Glad you like 'em! Early on, I decided to used a photo of one of yours as a guide for how I wanted mine to look. Can't take credit for the workshop though...that belongs to a local cub dealer who helped finish up the 70.

 

[dfrisk]

KIRK - More bolts holding the weights on equals MORE WEIGHT I guess.

I think the biggest reason pullers don't like to use wheel weights is because the suitcase weights are so much easier to put on/take off. I think your performance using wheel weights shows that having the weight right smak-dab over the contact patch of the drive tires takes weird weight transfer issues out of the equation of having rows of suitcase weights ahead of or behind the drive wheels.

And the speed of the tractor really doesn't enter into the equation until you reach a speed fast enough that aerodynamic lift enters into it.

The pulling tractors I mentioned, the green ones used to use just one big pipe in the center of their wheels since their weight's center holes were mostly round. When the tractor stopped the weights would keep on spinning.

What's interesting, most rear ag tire technical manuals now days recommend AGAINST fluid for weight, especially on radial rear farm tires, and wheel weights are the ballast of choice.