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Archive through October 27, 2014
- Thread starter jsalatino
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JONATHAN - Good DEAL!
I did the same swap of axle carriers on my 72 7-8 yrs ago. My outer bushings were worn a LOT, both axle seals leaked, had a 123 partial roller chassis, frame & rear end, put those axle carriers with needle bearings and new seals on the 72. Rolls easier and no leaks now!
My axles were O-K so reused them.
I did the same swap of axle carriers on my 72 7-8 yrs ago. My outer bushings were worn a LOT, both axle seals leaked, had a 123 partial roller chassis, frame & rear end, put those axle carriers with needle bearings and new seals on the 72. Rolls easier and no leaks now!
My axles were O-K so reused them.
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Snow blower belts:
I have had the opposite experience with thrower belts. I run a hopped up QA-42B with an 18hp Mag in a 782 and have run the last 5+ seasons on 1 belt....but it must be tight. A positive belt tension stop is a MUST to keep it from backing off and getting loose/HOT....that ruins belts fast.
QA-42, 450, QA-36, etc........they all pull hard when pushed to operate well.
Again: Hydro for infinite speed (and hyd. lift!!!!), LOTS OF HORSEPOWER!!!!, and then feed it until the Kohler really barks..........at that point you've done all you can do!!!!
(then again, maybe the belt success I enjoy is because I bought 2 belts the first time........only way to guarantee you won't need the spare is to buy the spare!!!!!)
I have had the opposite experience with thrower belts. I run a hopped up QA-42B with an 18hp Mag in a 782 and have run the last 5+ seasons on 1 belt....but it must be tight. A positive belt tension stop is a MUST to keep it from backing off and getting loose/HOT....that ruins belts fast.
QA-42, 450, QA-36, etc........they all pull hard when pushed to operate well.
Again: Hydro for infinite speed (and hyd. lift!!!!), LOTS OF HORSEPOWER!!!!, and then feed it until the Kohler really barks..........at that point you've done all you can do!!!!
(then again, maybe the belt success I enjoy is because I bought 2 belts the first time........only way to guarantee you won't need the spare is to buy the spare!!!!!)
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- Home of the Plow Special
Pardon me for stepping to the off-topic side here for a moment, but I gotta comment...
Charlie says:
"Dunno about any other off topic super machine but the 450 was an option with a 1572 and a 2072 and probably the rest as well. A brand new KT17 would do well with a 450, but add 30 years to it and I still say it will work it really hard.
Charlie's right...
We run an 1872 with a 60" Haban deck as our summer mower-rig. It will pull my fat side up some steep hills while mowing thick summer grass and never miss a beat.
We run the #450 on a 2072 in the white-stuff. The engine in the 2072 has had a relatively recent rebuild, but the good old #450 will haul that 2072 right down to it's knees if you don't watch it in the deep stuff. Then again, it's all worth it when you see this...
CLICKY LINKY: Minus 22 Degrees January 29, 2014
Charlie says:
"Dunno about any other off topic super machine but the 450 was an option with a 1572 and a 2072 and probably the rest as well. A brand new KT17 would do well with a 450, but add 30 years to it and I still say it will work it really hard.
Charlie's right...
We run an 1872 with a 60" Haban deck as our summer mower-rig. It will pull my fat side up some steep hills while mowing thick summer grass and never miss a beat.
We run the #450 on a 2072 in the white-stuff. The engine in the 2072 has had a relatively recent rebuild, but the good old #450 will haul that 2072 right down to it's knees if you don't watch it in the deep stuff. Then again, it's all worth it when you see this...
CLICKY LINKY: Minus 22 Degrees January 29, 2014
mpatterson
Well-known member
Well, I am going to give it a go on the 782 and hope it does good, after all, its an IH! There shouldn't be any doubt. Hey Art, cool video! If you have more, e-mail me the links for them if you don't mind, love watching that Cub of yours work. Makes me smile in the morning.
What a week I `am having; three cubs would not start . all three were running and parked in storage shed , drove them in there. well all three needed new coils . go figer . So I ordered new blue coils and point savers for two Cubs and hope to keep a few that will be more dependable . last year it was condensers lol. one other timing thing
seems one cub will start every time on the second roll the other will roll at least 4 revolutions before it starts . what
can I do to improve starting on that tractor. all start with no smoke and burn no oil ?? would 1 deg early advanced timing help ??
Don T.
IMHO,
Dielectric grease on all electrical connections on tractors that are stored and not used at least on a weekly bases is a must.
Especially if they are subject to humidity and weather changes.
IMHO,
Dielectric grease on all electrical connections on tractors that are stored and not used at least on a weekly bases is a must.
Especially if they are subject to humidity and weather changes.
Charlie
I do you D grease and a protectant used in fuse panels for alum wire . it was designed to prevent moisture and arcing in electrical connections. I hope someone would know about trimming a cub if a deg early or later in trimming would make them start sooner. I guess I will just have to try it and see what happens .
I do you D grease and a protectant used in fuse panels for alum wire . it was designed to prevent moisture and arcing in electrical connections. I hope someone would know about trimming a cub if a deg early or later in trimming would make them start sooner. I guess I will just have to try it and see what happens .
Don T.-
You might try static timing. I found it takes practice and patience but I've never been disappointed when I finally get everything "right on". Once you get the points right be sure and check them a couple of times after you've tightened the locking screw. I've found I always have to go back and readjust a few times. The tightening can throw things off a degree or two easily. Once I do get the correct reading after I've tightened the screw the engine seems to always fire immediately and I feel confident the timing is correct. Also, .020 is only a starting point. I think I've only had one engine end up at that setting. I've had the point gap end up anywhere from .017 to .022.
Another thing I do is once I get the "S" mark centered in the sight hole on the compression stroke I make corresponding marks on the left rear side of the engine between the flywheel screen and the housing. This way I can easily see that the timing mark is centered without having to walk around the tractor every time. It may sound crazy but I've found it works just fine.
You might try static timing. I found it takes practice and patience but I've never been disappointed when I finally get everything "right on". Once you get the points right be sure and check them a couple of times after you've tightened the locking screw. I've found I always have to go back and readjust a few times. The tightening can throw things off a degree or two easily. Once I do get the correct reading after I've tightened the screw the engine seems to always fire immediately and I feel confident the timing is correct. Also, .020 is only a starting point. I think I've only had one engine end up at that setting. I've had the point gap end up anywhere from .017 to .022.
Another thing I do is once I get the "S" mark centered in the sight hole on the compression stroke I make corresponding marks on the left rear side of the engine between the flywheel screen and the housing. This way I can easily see that the timing mark is centered without having to walk around the tractor every time. It may sound crazy but I've found it works just fine.
snicklas
Well-known member
Michael,
Yes, that is exactly what it means.... the number of links on the side chain between the cross links.
2 link chains:
4 link chains:
(Borrowed from the internet)
I have only used 4 link chains, and have no experience with 2 link chains, or the V-Bar chains....
Yes, that is exactly what it means.... the number of links on the side chain between the cross links.
2 link chains:
4 link chains:
(Borrowed from the internet)
I have only used 4 link chains, and have no experience with 2 link chains, or the V-Bar chains....
2 link chains give you a much smoother ride on hard or frozen ground, as well as more traction. Even in the dirt.
I have a situation I need help with. I'm trying to adjust the linkage on a 1450. I've done this several times before and never had this occur. I jacked the tractor up (one rear) and tapped the proper bracket down until the wheel stopped turning. I then adjusted the shifter to the neutral position, tightened the bracket and tested the adjustment. It still creeped when the pedal was pushed down so I did the same adjustment a couple more times. Now, standing beside the tractor it will creep forward. I can pull the shifter back until it stops and after a couple of seconds it starts creeping the other way all by itself. It also goes from quiet (pump) to the growling we all know and love in a hydro. I didn't go into the pump on this one so I don't know the internal condition but it works "fine" as far as I can tell.
I feel sure this has happened to others in the past but with my luck it may be a first.
Any and all input will be appreciated.
BTW, the "find neutral" linkage (the one with the clevis) is adjusted and there's about 3/32" clearance in the slot when pedal is depressed. In other words, it doesn't bottom out in the cam plate slot.
HELP!
I feel sure this has happened to others in the past but with my luck it may be a first.
Any and all input will be appreciated.
BTW, the "find neutral" linkage (the one with the clevis) is adjusted and there's about 3/32" clearance in the slot when pedal is depressed. In other words, it doesn't bottom out in the cam plate slot.
HELP!
Wayne S.
Jack BOTH tires off the ground. Make sure that the oil of hot and not stone cold.
I personally adjust the linkage and not bracket at any time.
Do one or the other, just not both. It always worked for me. But my hydro always liked me!
Jack BOTH tires off the ground. Make sure that the oil of hot and not stone cold.
I personally adjust the linkage and not bracket at any time.
Do one or the other, just not both. It always worked for me. But my hydro always liked me!
snicklas
Well-known member
Matt,
Yes that is correct. On all IH Cast Iron Transmission Cub Cadets, the proper fill level is even with the bottom of the fill/check plug. When I top mine off, I put in fluid until is just starts to run back out of the plug and reinstall the plug.
This is for the Gear Drive or Hydros. Just they hold a different amount of fluid. The hydro fill/check plug is mounted much higher than a gear drive plug is.
Yes that is correct. On all IH Cast Iron Transmission Cub Cadets, the proper fill level is even with the bottom of the fill/check plug. When I top mine off, I put in fluid until is just starts to run back out of the plug and reinstall the plug.
This is for the Gear Drive or Hydros. Just they hold a different amount of fluid. The hydro fill/check plug is mounted much higher than a gear drive plug is.
Thanks Charlie. I didn't realize the hydro oil temp was that critical...especially here in NC. It's been in the mid to upper 70s all week.
I think I got it as tuned as it can be. I also think there are some wear issues inside this pump.
I think I got it as tuned as it can be. I also think there are some wear issues inside this pump.
Wayne S.
I'm thinkin there's more wear issues with it's owner!
I'm thinkin there's more wear issues with it's owner!
