Archive through October 25, 2011

[aaytay]

Paul A-
For your Original, use this method straight from the 'good book'.

For any other <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet, use Paul B's method on the previous page...

 

[dtanner]

Art A

I thought you were a smart Cub guy, did not know you had all that O info.Don`t out do Kraig .
Shop clean up day for me.I got WAY to much piled in one place. Have a great day all

 

[mhomrighausen]

Just doing some browsing and thinking about how they reupholster thoe neat 1x4/5 seats that cost so much. Now it has me thinking.... Reupholstering Tips. I can't see how the same principals couldn't be applied to those seats.

 

[elamott]

Can I confirm something with anyone in the know.
I was doing some searching for the correct lube for the 90% front gear for the snow blower on a 129. The manual states that if it has a filler plug use 80 oil if not it is sealed. Well this one does not have a plug and the inside looks like old grease or crud. I would think that it should be 80/90 weight oil but I am not sure.
Any comments appreciated.
Earl LaMott

 

[rrschmitt]

Paul A,

If your new axle seals are leaking, you might want to check the axle bushings as they may be shot. Jack the rear axle up, remove the wheel and try to move the axle up and down. If the axle moves and is sloppy, you need to replace the bushings in the axle housing along with a new set of seals. It's either that or you installed the seals wrong. The seals should retain the oil, even if you overfilled it.

 

[wshytle]

Today I installed the #1 tiller on the 1650. When I got it on the first thing I noticed was the pulley on the gearbox didn't align with the pulley on the tiller. Also, the depth adjuster (with the chains) hits the rear of the fender pan and can't be turned to adjust. I have some 1" round stock so I could make a longer lift dowel if it's that simple.

What am I missing? Is there a difference in mounting on a wf vs a nf? I do have the 147 I could mount it on as well but rather use the 1650.

Any help will be appreciated.

 

[kfreeman]

Earl,

http://cubfaq.com/tillerboxlube.html

If you search the archives, you can probably find some discussions of using grease and oil blends.

 

[pwarfle]

Marlin,

If you are talking about the white vinyl covered seat with the blue trim, I just took one to a upolstery shop a few months ago and had it recovered, for a friends 122. (Sorry I did not take a pic of it before I gave it back to the friend).
The shop told me that the issue with recovering the seat is that he felt the vinyl would come un-glued from the foam in the curve area between the seat bottom and back. He suggested using two pcs of vinyl and having a stitch that seperates the seat bottom from the seat back, in a "U" shape. I had him go ahead because I was not worried about 100% originality. It turned out really good. He was able to clean up the old blue trim and glue it on. I thought the $75 charge was fair.
I now have a friend with his own ulpostery business working on one for me, trying to do it without the stitching.

 

[klorenz]

I got to indulge in my two favorite pastimes today.....Dirtbike Riding and Cubbin'

Picked up a 71 roller from a guy about 20 miles from an off-road park. Then went to this park and put 26 miles of woods trailriding on my old Honda XR250.

Great day!

Previous owner mod. Good grief....

 

[erice]

Kirk, isn't it strange how some people just don't care how it works as long as it does.

 

[klorenz]

Eric,

Or don't care how it looks as long as it works?

 

[jcabral]

Thanks, now that I know it is from a SIMS cab, I might restore it and when the Wife starts to complain about another tractor in the yard I will tell her it is one of those new HYBRID cars I bought for her.

 

[digger]

Greg P.
Sorry no one caught your question.

The long one is 11" wide outside and the short one is 9 1/4" outside.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Paul W. That seems to be the normal reupholstery shop talk. I wonder if they don't apply enough steam and then glue and hold it down long enough to hold things in place. I'm going to try and find some shops around here. A local car enthusiast thinks it shouldn't be that awfully hard.

Off to work...

 

[pfunk]

I'm hoping someone can give me some help. A couple weeks ago I picked up a Hawk-Blt Ground Saw. It needed (and still needs) a lot of work, but I've finally managed to get it mounted on one of my CubCadets. (I had to make several missing pieces.)

It looks like I don't need to put a drive shaft in the tractor since the tractor is driven by a hydraulic motor through the rear PTO but I'm not sure. Also, I have two inlets on the oil reservoir and two return lines but I don't know which goes where and they're different sizes. Does anyone know of anyone that owns one that would be willing to answer some questions for me??

I've searched the archives and found several postings of brochures, but no real discussion. Also, when I download the brochures, they're not high enough resolution to read. I'd like some higher resolution copies if anyone would furnish them to me. Please email me first (pf2 at evansville dot edu) so I don't get too many and lock up my email. It has limited capacity.

TIA

Paul

 

[pfunk]

I forgot to enter a picture of the digging chain in the previous post and I couldn't figure out how to edit and add it. It looks pretty mean!!

 

[dross]

Paul F, Nice find, I wish I could help you more but I've never been around one of those. If I understood one of youer questions correctly, yes you need a driveshaft in the tractor. The rear PTO is driven through the transmission, with the drive shaft.

 

[bjohnson]

Wayne Shytle, not sure if you got your answers to your tiller. The pulley on the gear box can be moved along the shaft by loosening the set screws and sliding. Align the pulleys then tighten down the set screws. Another reason for misalignment could be a wallered out mounting arms which causes the tiller to be off-square to the tractor. I had this on mine. I fixed this by drilling out and installing bushings. This squared the tiller to the tractor. As for the depth adjustment, drop the tiller to the ground and make the necessary depth adjustment with the knob. I beleive the tillers are the same mounting for both NF and WF machines.

 

[pbell]

Dave R.
No, I don't believe the driveshaft is needed. The tractor is driven by a hydraulic motor that drives the transmission thru the rear PTO (the tractor engine drive a hyd pump). Kinda like going into your house, you can go in the front door or go in the back door, but either way you get to the same place. The tractor is driven by hydraulics to get the slow speed necessary for the "saw" the dig a trench.

 

[kfreeman]

Paul Funk,

In the archives January 31, 2008 was a discussion of these trenchers. A member, Eric Tyler, had 2 of them and posted a picture of one restored. If his email is still valid, he may be a resource.

I saw a picture of one with a hydraulic operated front blade as well. Maybe that is what some of the hydraulic ports are used for. Apparently, Vermeer bought the tractors from IH, mounted the trenchers and then sold them, as opposed to being an aftermarket attachment.