Don, the 3 point from the 147 should bolt right onto the 125. However you will not need the reinforcing bracket for the cast iron part that's at the back of the frame on the 147. Here's what the bracket looks like:
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through October 19, 2011
- Thread starter rtunison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
James, regarding your query about the QA42A auger bearings. Have you removed the locking collars? They are removed by first loosening the set screw and then rotating it with a punch placed in the shallow hole (note NOT the set screw hole!) that should be in the collar. It will only rotate one direction, so if it does not rotate try to drive it the other direction. Once the locking collar is off the bearing should slide off.
Thanks Kraig, Paul, I have to go on a hunt to see what I can find for parts.I might needs some measurements lol.
I have much to do this fall to my tractors.The 125 and the Original need to be finished and driving by spring.I will to use the 125 for mowing and retire my 16 year old chrapsman ride on. I know it will die soon ,the 125 must be ready.I know I won`t wear the 125 out with the new engine rebuild.Ah spring
I have much to do this fall to my tractors.The 125 and the Original need to be finished and driving by spring.I will to use the 125 for mowing and retire my 16 year old chrapsman ride on. I know it will die soon ,the 125 must be ready.I know I won`t wear the 125 out with the new engine rebuild.Ah spring
Pictures are good . I`am making a new gas line up for the 62 and between down poors I will run it to the Cub shed. My shop is a disaster with changing out the 40 gall hot water tank and installing the electric furnace.Plus a MC in the way.
Heat soon .
I know Charlie has a much bigger heat source lol.
Heat soon .
I know Charlie has a much bigger heat source lol.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
WELL MR TANNER...a fine thing you've done here!
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2011
- Messages
- 35
- displayname
- john brewer
Tonights dinner time conversation:
"Yes hon, I know I just bought the first Cub 3 weeks ago, but this Original is not too far away , and the price is affordable, and at least it's not a boat...."
"Yes hon, I know I just bought the first Cub 3 weeks ago, but this Original is not too far away , and the price is affordable, and at least it's not a boat...."
mpatterson
Well-known member
John,
I never thought to play the "boat" card!!! DAMN! I will have to remember that one!
I never thought to play the "boat" card!!! DAMN! I will have to remember that one!
mpatterson
Well-known member
Anyone have a picture of a 100 with a mower deck installed on it? I want to see the mule drive assembly on the front and how it all attaches. Is it similar to the wide framed 82 series or does it attach with pins?
lpalma
Well-known member
I don't know how those cubs Craig posted can cut grass with the PTO handle off!!
Brian,
Nice 70 and 100
Don T
You are lucky to have heat in your shop.
Brian,
Nice 70 and 100
Don T
You are lucky to have heat in your shop.
Got a problem for you guys. I just put a mag 20 in my 782. Runs fine until it sits over night. It wont start unless I pour a little gas in the carb. It will fire right up and run great. Shut it off and it will start right up. Let it sit over night and it won't start. Seems like it's not getting any gas. I pulled the line off the fuel pump and cranked it over, and gas pumped out. I would think there would be enough gas in the bowl to start anyhow. I haven't had time to look into it more. Any ideas
Mike - Sounds like your float is staying closed and letting the carb drain of fuel once the pumps off and the system bleeds pressure (not 100% as im mostly familiar with gravity feed systems) Id try taking the carb apart and looking at the jets, lines going to it, and make sure nothings clogged or pinched, then Id look at the bowl for sediment and of course the ever troublesome float and needle valves to ensure everything is adjusted correctly to allow fuel flow.
I had a hell of a time getting my carter carb on my K301A tuned right, it would only run mid range for a few seconds at a time, no idle, and no full throttle. I played and played and come to find out my main fuel needle was cracked and actually broken in two places (what I get for getting a used carb), give it a good cleaning even if its new, cant hurt it and who knows, might even find your issue. Good luck and let us know if it works, hope this helps!
I had a hell of a time getting my carter carb on my K301A tuned right, it would only run mid range for a few seconds at a time, no idle, and no full throttle. I played and played and come to find out my main fuel needle was cracked and actually broken in two places (what I get for getting a used carb), give it a good cleaning even if its new, cant hurt it and who knows, might even find your issue. Good luck and let us know if it works, hope this helps!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
'Morning, Everyone!!!
It's HAPPY FRIDAY!!!
Mike P. Take a close look the mule drive bracket mounting piece in the third picture down in Kraig's set of photos. See that little shiny silver piece that is there instead of the two bolts? You will want that piece. It is a "quick attach" bracket piece that eliminates one of the bolts. Someone made a drawing of the piece quite awhile ago. Perhaps Kraig M. can post that drawing on here for you.
Have a great day and a wonderful weekend ya'all.
Mike P. Take a close look the mule drive bracket mounting piece in the third picture down in Kraig's set of photos. See that little shiny silver piece that is there instead of the two bolts? You will want that piece. It is a "quick attach" bracket piece that eliminates one of the bolts. Someone made a drawing of the piece quite awhile ago. Perhaps Kraig M. can post that drawing on here for you.
Have a great day and a wonderful weekend ya'all.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Thank you Kraig! That is what I was wondering about. Just how things attached to the front of the 100's. So if you do not have the quick attach, you need to install 2 bolts per side to attach the mule drive bracket? I am guessing in order to slide the deck in and out you have a few pins to remove under the frame so it can side out on either side of the tractor like the newer 82 series do? Guy who is selling the 100 has a deck too, just not sure if I am ready to part with the money for the deck also?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Mike E.-
If it starts after it's warm, it's getting gas. Check to make sure you have the choke cable adjusted correctly...the choke may not be closing all the way.
If it starts after it's warm, it's getting gas. Check to make sure you have the choke cable adjusted correctly...the choke may not be closing all the way.
Glen and Matt,
Choke is working fine. If I pour a little gas in the carb to get it to start and then shut it back off, it will start right back up. It only needs to run for a few seconds. it's as if it can draw the gas out of the bowl until it gets running. The carb does have the automatic fuel shut off, but it seems to work fine. I even pulled the plunger out per the manual, but it made no difference. I guess I just need to pull it apart. Any chance the carb off a k341 would work on the Mag 20?
Choke is working fine. If I pour a little gas in the carb to get it to start and then shut it back off, it will start right back up. It only needs to run for a few seconds. it's as if it can draw the gas out of the bowl until it gets running. The carb does have the automatic fuel shut off, but it seems to work fine. I even pulled the plunger out per the manual, but it made no difference. I guess I just need to pull it apart. Any chance the carb off a k341 would work on the Mag 20?
MIKE - K341 has a Carter side draft carb, the MAG 20 is a horizontal twin cyl correct, has a long intake manifold to run fuel/air mix to both cylinders and would have a straight down-draft carb. Two totally different animals. Could be made to work but would require an adapter to change the air flow direction after the fuel/air mixture leaves the carb, the Carter will NOT work laying on it's side.
Mike P., here's what the clips that Marlin pointed out look like.
