Archive through October 17, 2010

[wshytle]

Yesterday I came across and bought a IH hydraulic pump. I now need the hoses and cylinder but can't find them in the parts look-up. Does anyone know how to get these part numbers? And...is the cylinder the same as found on the 149? 1450?

TIA......Wayne

 

[mgonitzke]

Dennis-

I've tried the candle wax trick a couple of times and haven't had much luck with it. I guess not everything is going to work every time, but I'd think it should have worked at least once...

 

[pbell]

Doug W.
The bushing should have been rather tight, because it centers the front of the driveshaft. If it has 1/8" of "slop", it was caused by you "boring it out". The clutch anti-rattle springs WILL NOT put enough side force on the clutch to cause your problem, whether there is only 1 or all 3 (the 800, 1000, 1200 only used 1). They can cause the clutch to not release, if not installed correctly, and also have a habit of "disappearing" or coming off. Most people do not replace them when replacing a clutch because of that.

If you loosen all 4 bolts that mount the engine to the frame, you may be surprised how much you can "cock" or twist/turn the engine, even though there is not any "excess slop" in the holes in the frame. There is enough to cock the engine enough to cause the driveshaft to bind in the bushing you bored out, which normally causes clutch release problems. There is no easy way to line the engine and driveshaft up other than by "eyeball", (I believe there was a dealer tool/fixture for alinement but they are very scarce) by trying to insure there is an equal distance between the clutch disc and the 3 pin clutch drive disc, on both the left and right side of the tractor.

If all the "slop" or side movement of the driveshaft is at the front, you will need to replace the front bushing, and be sure the part of the driveshaft that fits in that bushing is not worn (yes Virginia, that bronze bushing can, and will, wear that steel driveshaft). Also check the rear driveshaft couplings to ensure there is not any damage or wear that could cause part of the problem.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT - I really don't work with nasty rusty stuff that much anymore, but I do keep both PB & Kroil on hand. I've never really had a chance to even try the candle wax, just read the idea in Hot Rod Mag. years ago. Normally PB or Kroil work for Me, with a little heat from a propane torch. Most times when working on exhaust or shock & suspension work you're actually looking for nuts & bolts to seize so you can twist them off. Sometimes I have to break out the BIG 3/4" breaker bar & sockets and my 3 ft long cheater pipe but I've been lucky so far.

The exhaust connections that Ford used on most of their cars & trucks was kinda a "ball & socket" joint joined with two flanges bolted together with 2-3 bolts. Liberal application of anti-seize is always made mostly so they come apart easy next time.

SON brought a FREE blown-up 460 Ford engine & C6 tranny home several years ago. We put the engine on our stand and attacked it with impacts. We twisted off 3-4 exh manifold bolts, and just for practice we used the "weld a nut on the broken stud" trick and they all spun right out by the time they cooled enough to barely touch. I think TIG welding would work best, with Arc a close second followed by MIG. You want/need good control & penetration.

I have had some success with "Easy-Outs" but for something REALLY stuck not so much. I find grinding the broken bolt flush, center-punching then drilling with a 1/8" bit up in steps works best with them. Often the broken bolt comes loose while drilling. I haven't used "Left-hand twist bits" yet, but I can sure see why they would work.

Also using grd #5 & 8 bolts when reassembling makes the next disassembly MUCH easier.

 

[dtanner]

Well this is not what I planned to do today ,but the 147 only runs with a full choke.So off with the carb and clean out everything .I did find some dirt. Now to put it back together and see if I found all the dirt.Wife came ina nd said get cleaned for supper at 4.30 because we will have company at 6 .Did I forget

 

[sshaff]

Hi Guys,

Having trouble adjusting the brake linkage on my newly restored 100. After turning the adjusting screw completely in all directions the linkage moves only slightly with the brake pedal about 2" from the footpad. The manual says it should be within 1 3/8", but it won't move any closer no matter where the screw is. There is very little if any braking action in frist gear; the tractor only coasts to a stop in 2nd and 3rd. Could paint be preventing the linkage from working properly? Hoping for an easy fix.

 

[mgonitzke]

Dennis-

Welding a nut on the end of the broken bolt is a great trick. When I was building my loader subframe I needed to reassemble a gutted aluminum rearend to put in my frame jig, but it had 4 bolts twisted off flush with the main housing. My dad said, "watch this", welded a nut on each with the wire-feed welder, and they spun right out...no damage to the machined surface of the case, either. I have also used ez-outs with varying amounts of success. Sometimes they don't grab anything, sometimes they twist off, and sometimes they actually work. The most stubborn thing I ever had was the aux. hydraulic handle on a dual-spool 1650. The handle threads into a cast piece that's connected to a tube that goes into the dash and moves the valve, and it had been twisted off flush. Nothing worked...welding a nut on, ez-out, candle wax, etc. We wound up drilling it out and rethreading the hole.

 

[dtanner]

Well the 147 runs again and idles at 1200 .I used my digital tach to see what it was set at. I see wot needs to be set because I think 3748 is a little high lol. Now I know why that 147 was such a strong puller lol. What fun . Need to try the factory setting soon

 

[jrlewis]

Is there any other Breather that I can adapt to my 1100 with the Briggs on it having trouble finding a Breather for it. On my 128 some one had put a Grader Blade onthe front and it is not Cub I am trying to include a picture so maybe someone can tell me what it is?

 

[jrlewis]

This is the 3RD. time for me to try and upload pictures of the grader blade. I believe I have it now.

 

[dtanner]

Joe Lewis
Can`t help with what you have there for a blade but if you need a picture of a blade that will work ,I can post that later

Don T

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE S. - The internal wet disc brake on the 100 works directly on the differential pinion gear shaft so whatever gear the tractor is in doesn't make any difference except for the faster speeds in 2nd & 3rd gear.

There's two pucks about 1-1/2 inch in diameter and 3/8" thk. that compress against the 4-1/2" dia. steel disc in the bottom of the reduction housing. The adjusting screw/bolt is a square head long setscrew with a jam nut to lock in the adjustment located on the brake lever or arm on the lower front of the rearend assembly. You tighten the setwcrew, (turn clockwise while looking at the head of the screw/bolt) to tighten the brake. You have to hold the bolt while tightening the jam nut.

You say you just restored the 100, did that include replacing the brake pucks & o-ring? removing or replacing any of the linkage? Paint on the linkage itself probably won;t effect brake application but if you got a lot of paint down into the bore where the brake piston & pucks are located you might have painted the piston into place.

There's several things that could go wrong with those brakes, since you say you can turn the bolt completely in all directions the adjusting bolt may be stripped. Or the diecast piston that actually moves by being pushed by the adj. bolt could be broken, or seized in the bore or the o-ring sealing the Hy-Tran in the rearend/reduction housing could be failing and wedged the piston tight in the bore. Or there are no brake pucks left in one or both of the bores.

We could actually use a lot more information to give you a better idea of what the problem is.
We the brakes working O-K before you restored the tractor? And what all if anything did you do to the brakes?

The clutch is actually a "Clutch/Brake pedal" but each function has it's own linkage, and really doesn't effect the other function, other than for proper smooth operation they have to occur in a cetain sequence which is what the dimensions listed in the manual are providing.

 

[dross]

Dennis, Yes it did include that O ring.
Steve, take the links off to the brake and clutch and see if the pedal travels free.

 

[wshytle]

I don't know if I'm just being ignored or whether anyone just doesn't know but I need to know if the hydraulic cylinder used with the auxillary hydraulic system is the same as what comes on w 149 or a 1450 etc.

Kraig-

I know it's the weekend but if you have any pics of a wf with the auxillary hydraulics I'd sure like to see them. I want to add hydraulics to my 108. I have the pump now and need to acquire the hoses and cylinder.

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle
I could say that the cylinder from a 149 would be the same,because I think IH did use the same cylinder for many things. But I would be just not 100 % sure. And those aux pumps were for nf Tractors I thought

 

[digger]

Wayne S.
It's sunday and the sun is shinning, so everyone is out playin. LOL
To answer your question, No, they are not even close.
I'll post a pic later when I get done adding weight to the loader project.

 

[sshaff]

DAVE -- Yes, the pedal fell to the footrest once we removed the link.

DENNIS -- Nothing was disassembled and no parts were replaced. Haven't used this one before.

 

[jderstine]

Anybody have a picture of the steering wheel center for a 122?

I need to get one but it would be nice to know what they look like so I can get the correct one

 

[rtunison]

Cool that the 147 is running again Donald. LOL on the R.P.M.'s. I set my engines up to 3600 and run them a bit rich and always with a little MMO.

. Works for me! And it smells good!

 

[rtunison]

Jeff,

http://ccspecialties.org/steering_seats.html

Digger,,,,have you gotten my emails ?